Hardware

Do you want me to sort the original thread out -> spitting them into OTA and Myscontroller thread?

For my 433mhz i use this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/172002494385?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT Dont know if you have any connector for that, but found some interesting breakout boards for RFM69 https://www.tindie.com/products/modtronicsaustralia/rfm69hw-breakout-board-pcb-433mhz-long-range-20db-wireless-module-arduino-pic-and-arm-compatible/

Cliff just found some other bulbs based on ESP8266, in this case are not intended to be reprogrammed because there are no RX,TX and GPIO0 exposed. Also in this case, the ESP8266 is on a dedicated PCB as addon. [image: 1452461030036-20160110_213315.jpg]

@gloob said: it works with the MySensors serial gateway sketch MySensors is based on the Arduino Core, and there is no Arduino core (as far as I know) for the 8051 processor the nRF24LU1+ is based on...

@m26872: on my side I had no trouble with nrf. maybe lucky. but you are right because I don't use common stepup, nor eval boards or I make it for test. But, there are lot of cool low noise stepup. I have not tested this, and I am very curious, I don't know if nrf/rfm range would be the same at 1.9v vs 3.3v ? btw, for range, I prefer to use rfm69 for my setup, so consumption is not the same! (my dream would be to use cc1310 but have no time to invest, I have not much time actually to play with my devices...) But I see what you mean, simplicity too, I totally agree ;)

Chemistry. I have no idea. Initial voltage increase is common in e.g. AAs if you switch load type and/or let the them rest for a while. I often put used batteries from my kids toys in my sensors.

@tbowmo Great. Thanks

Thank you! I'll look on there. Simon

I got also problems to upload the scetch to an arduino micro. After uploading the micro does not connect on any COM-Port. Only if I reset the bootloader, I can write other sample scetches to the micro. So it seams, that the gateway code does not working well with an arduino micro.

@jesse said: I found the solution on this page: http://mathertel.blogspot.com/2013/04/using-spi-bus-with-ethernet-sd-card-and.html The key is setting the Chip Select (CS) line to be different for each module. For the CC3000... "#define ADAFRUIT_CC3000_CS 7" Pin 7 is being used exclusively to select the Wifi module. https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-cc3000-wifi/cc3000-breakout For the NRF24L01+... "RF24 radio(9,10);" Pin 9 is being used for Chip Enable (CE) and Pin 10 is Chip Select (CS). http://arduino-info.wikispaces.com/Nrf24L01-2.4GHz-HowTo http://maniacbug.github.io/RF24/classRF24.html The other SPI pins: CLK, MISO, MOSI, are shared by the two modules and get wired in parallel. Hi do you still have a Gateway code when using CC3000 and arduino Mega or UNO(if it fits)?

@bomber Did you find a way to use CC3000 as gateway?

Agree with @Yveaux. The only situations I can see the full resolution to be useful is when one examine the accuracy or calibrate its output (e.g. offset). Accuracy like 0.01 C would require some high class Pt100.

ESP8266 is faster than W5100 ok thanks. but if I want work with ethernet only ?

The regular RFM69 has much better range than the NRF so you might not need the high power version at all. It does require you buy/build your own antenna though. I'm using the 915 MHz version and can cover my whole house, yard, and garage with a small helical antenna I bought on ebay (the NRF couldn't do that even with an external antenna). Just search for "XXX hz helical antenna) on ebay to see a lot of options.

@TheoL, there is no right or wrong way to implement a project. Having it a standalone device is a must for you it seems, however i would have it connected to your home automation controller to literally just display status' of the alarm and then you could have other nodes actuate/complete actions depending on if your alarm clock is/isn't at home and more specifically, is/isn't set to wake you. You could have a automated socket or a automated coffee machine or even lights depending on the status of you alarm. Example below: IF the alarm is at home AND armed to wake you, THEN turn on lights to 10%/20%/30%/40% --> 100% 10mins/9mins/8mins/7mins/6mins/etc before your alarm is due to go off, allowing you to wake up to a perfectly light room (not too bright to shock your eyes/system) or even have your coffee machine start brewing 2 minutes before your alarm activates.... Again, that would just be my suggestion. Doing this ALONGSIDE of having it a standalone machine would not affect anything if you left the house.

I was working on something like this about 2 years ago and it still works for me for about 6months or so on 2xAA. Please, check the following github project page https://github.com/endysh/Wireless-PIR-sensor With some improvements (I did not have a chance to finish yet) the power consumption in detection mode can be reduced down to 60 - 70 uA, which can give you 1+ year, but it depends on traffic and how often it will send notifications

You have to use the receive-function. There are several examples (I.e. RelayActuator) that uses it.

I lately ordered some of these boards: https://www.itead.cc/itead-arduino-nano-io-shield.html They didn't arrive yet, so I have no expierience.

Not sure exactly what are you looking for... See if this post helps with the pins. Cheers