General Discussion

thank you very much! ;)

My advise if you want upgrade and improve your domotics in your house is what i done. Domoticz,serial gateway, rfm69h and rfm69hw instead of nrf24 that i used before and replace all cards. Nrf24 have many range problems for me and the the chinise clone that are unknown quality in each order.all diferents each time i order...

@nagelc I'm working to get the nRF52840 supported by mecrisp-stellaris. If that happens, then it will be faster than uLisp, because then FORTH will automatically compile seamlessly into native machine code rather than running on a VM. Allegedly the performance would then be very close to that of compiled C code. To me that would be like having my cake (interactivity of a REPL) and eating it too (fast execution speed).

@sergio-rius If you go to the Device Manager in Windows, right click on the device and select update driver. From there select "Browse my computer for driver software". Next you can "Browse for driver software on your computer" to find the driver if you have downloaded it and install it that way. I have had issues with my Prolific driver though after I have installed it where if I plug the adapter into different USB ports, Windows will get confused and revert back to the broken driver. If you have that issue after you already have the working driver installed, you can select "Let me pick from a list of device drivers on my computer". You should see 2 prolific drivers. Select the 3.3.2.102 driver and you should be good to go.

Hello, even with transparent plastic bottles there should be enough light reflected to be detected by a ToF sensor like VL53L0X. It's more reliable than most distance sensors that measure the quantity of light that is reflected. It also has the advantage of a much better range compared to other optical distance sensors. You might even manage to use only this sensor if you put it on top to measure the height of objects and you have enough size differences between the types of containers.

@alexsh1 if you haven't already, remove the Arduino bootloader. Iirc, it adds about 2 seconds. Set static parent (MY_PARENT_NODE_ID, MY_PARENT_NODE_IS_STATIC) and maybe MY_PASSIVE_NODE.

@johnrob I have similar experience to yours with the boards. Probably all pro mini boards I have a chinese made and they are working fine. I think this is due to the fact that they have past quality control. When you buy components, that's different issue - there is a very poor quality control in my experience.

@zboblamont @parachutesj Thanks! Good to hear your perspectives.

@skywatch no, nothing has changed. Since you've read the existing threads you already have a good view of the confusion and complexity.

@gohan Didn't think about the hw reset, may incorporate that yet as a belt and braces solution irrespective of the UPS.:+1: The problem with the Node controlling heating lay with human interface to vary conditions, Home/Away, Top floor occupied/Not, ignore that room as the window is removed as my most hated relative is staying in it... ;) The possibility for later remote secure external access made the Controller the logical choice with the greatest flexibility.

@smartalek https://www.arduino.cc/reference/en/language/functions/external-interrupts/attachinterrupt/

Actually if you are subscribed to a mqtt topic there is no need to continually ask for data, the broker will send automatically new data to all the subscribed clients as soon as it is received.

@hek aha, clearly, I've looked over it, I think ...

@gohan It was on the nRF5 action! thread and for LoRa it was on the CNC thread.

@skywatch The naughty step is my second home... ;) I understand what you're getting at, played with radio and antennae most of my life although only into the uhf bands, as I found out to my surprise, many have on this forum... But the problem remains as @Nca78 pointed out the range for a given input power, dodging or penetrating obstacles in the modern domestic environment with composite structures and steelwork becomes progressively more problematic with higher frequencies, it is as you noted yourself rather pernickity. At my age, pulling my hair out is not an option ;) hence my choice of uhf for the system here, lower power input, longer battery life, keep what hair there is...

My recollection of MOV specifications is the are often rated for AC operation I.e. In the US we might use a 130Vac MOV. While others are rated for DC operation. For most folks it is probably wise to follow those ratings. If you are really into MOV.s then you look to the curves. I do not mean to imply that AC rated MOVs a different from DC rated MOVs, they are both physically the same parts, its just how the catalog presents the specifications.