@nicomedia I stumbled on this doing a google search. Just wondering if you are still trying to get your Sonoff's working with your Vera controller? If so, I have written a blog post on the subject. It uses a different firmware called ESP Easy and an HTTP Switch plugin on the Vera rather than MySensors. but it works rather well for me. Here is the link to the blog post:
https://dan.bemowski.info/2017/07/04/using-a-sonoff-with-espeasy-and-vera/
I use this in conjunction with some MySensors wall switches that I built.
https://dan.bemowski.info/2017/06/11/my-start-into-open-source-hardware/
@dzungpham0703
I buy them on Aliexpress:
https://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?catId=0&initiative_id=SB_20180706102504&SearchText=HTTM
If you apply hot air it is easy to take off the white "double sided tape" and the plastic.
@Jonathan-Roberts said in Simple AC/DC Switch WeMos:
@nca78 bummer. So I think 2 options...
What if the Wemos is raised off the PCB. That would be almost 5/8". In your experience would that help?
And maybe the best option, slide the antenna module straight down,. move the relay up and spin it around so the connections are on the outside edge.
I'm trying to make this multi-purpose and allowing both headers to be fully functional to other projects. thx for the advise.
1 would help but not that much. It's already not a good thing to have the transformer just next to it on the side, so you should avoid blocking one more direction with tracks.
I don't understand your necessity to have connectors available for something else on the relay that is too high to put anything on top ?
2 sounds like a much better option, make sure you have nothing right and left of the antenna when you move things around.
The problem you will have with this layout is the USB in that situation...
It doesn't sound like a great idea to me to use Wemos on this board especially for the relay part, it's just a cheap chinese relay with 3/4 components so why not just put them directly on you board to make the layout so much easier ?
I have the feeling that you're trying to make things "easier" by using Wemos and its shields, but in the end you seem to lose more than you gain. And neither does it seem "safer" to use their relay shield as it forces you to have extra wires between main of the HLK and relay shield connector.
@Samuel235 said in Homini AC Powered Relay (2) Module:
OMRON G3MB-202P
Okay I'm trying to help you with the fuse component.
I found a datasheet for the OMRON G3MB-202P. And there are enoght information to be known for fuse selection.
I try to calculate it here (and i will try it with my bad English ).
The most important information is the melting integral.
The Melting integral has A²s as unit. So this means the maximum current for a time can exists without damaging the device. For further information look at wikipedia.
So we need any further information about:
the protection which is present before (the typical circuit protection in private houses)
the melting integral from the device which we want to protect
the maximum voltage
the maximum switching current
the breaking capacity
Inrush current for the switched devices (we can't know)
Typical values for an automatic circuit breaker in private houses are:
from 25 to 100 A²s
230 V AC
16 A
So this protection isn't good enough for our relay. The relay have these values:
230 V AC
2 A maximum switching current
I²t value (melting integral): 4 A²s
the allowed inrush current over a small time is higher than the melting integral. It is a bit confusing i think, but if we calculate the protection for the given melting integral and it's fine. So we can define the parameters for the client (switching site of this application here)
The fuse have to be:
I²s value higher or equal than the I²s value from the existing protection
rating voltage over 230 V AC
rating current 2 A or lower (because 2 A is the maximum at 25 °C, for 40 °C it is about 1.6 A)
a maximum switching time of 1 second at 2 A or lower time with higher current but below 4A²s! To calculate use the switching time from the fuse datasheet an multiply it two times with the given current for this switching time.
And i think a fast blow fuse would be the best. There are SMD fuses with 10.1 x 3 mm and 250 V AC available.
If there is no fuse available with the values above, we could combine multiple fuses. A possible solution could be one bigger fuse for both relays and the ac/dc component. And a smaller fuse for the switching site of the relay and the HLK-PM01. But for this it is important that the circuit have only one input for the hot one (L) of 230 V and one output for each relay. In this case we could reduce the big connectors from 6 to 4. Like (L, N, Relay1, Relay2).
And the temperature fuse can work for all components too
So the protection for the primary site of the HLK-PM01 is a problem i think. Because the are no information available about the I²s value from HLK-PM01.
I hope you can understand my English and could follow my explanation?
The updates have been applied to Rev 2, below we have a list of everything that has been added/modified;
Modification footprint for 3 items to make it easier to mount (Slow blow fuse, Thermal Fuse and Voltage Regulator) when hand soldering.
Modification to nRF24L01+ Module to remove the short to ground on VCC line.
Added the additional silkscreen labeling that was missed off by accident.
This should be all that is needed for Rev 2 to be a successor to the Rev 1. We still have the issue with having to use pogo pins to program through the ISP connection, or to temporarily solder jumper wire into the 6 pin connection while uploading, then everything else can be programmed through the on-board FTDI connection.
Will get the gerber files generated ASAP and then get them sent off for testing production runs.
