nRF5 action!
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What size pads are you guys using for your SAMD21 land pattern? Mine don't look right. The SAMD21 datasheet didn't actually give a land pattern. It just gave the size of the legs, and so I just made up a land pattern that was close to that. Looks too small compared to others that I'm seeing (e.g. on the Hackaday).
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@NeverDie said in Minimalist SAMD21 TQFP32 Pro Mini:
What size pads are you guys using for your SAMD21 land pattern? Mine don't look right. The SAMD21 datasheet didn't actually give a land pattern. It just gave the size of the legs, and so I just made up a land pattern that was close to that. Looks too small compared to others that I'm seeing (e.g. on the Hackaday).
Nevermind. I found the answer on page 10 of http://www.atmel.com/Images/Atmel-8826-SEEPROM-PCB-Mounting-Guidelines-Surface-Mount-Packages-ApplicationNote.pdf
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@NeverDie said in Minimalist SAMD21 TQFP32 Pro Mini:
I don't see any decoupling capacitors or ferrite beads on the USB data circuit. According to the schematic ( https://cdn.sparkfun.com/datasheets/Dev/Arduino/Boards/sparkfun-samd21-mini-breakout-v10.pdf), USB_D- and USB_D+ just connect directly to pins PA24 and PA25 on the MCU.
I saw that on the Adafruit board I think, and on the SenseBender gateway.
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you should not add decoupling /ferite beads to the D+/D- lines.. At most, add a protection resistor of 30R (or there about) inline, to limit current flow. Also you can add a USB protection circuit with diodes externally..
The ferite bead / capacitors on the sensebender, is between the cable shield, and gnd on the device, to limit EMI on the cable shielding..
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Just realizing that if I'm going to hand patch the 4 SWD wires onto the board anyway, then I really don't need an SWD block. Consequently, I'm now thinking the Hackaday guy had the right idea with making his entire node the width of a USB connector:
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@NeverDie >> I'm now thinking the Hackaday guy had the right idea with making his entire node the width of a USB connector:
Really good idea. Just plug it into your box.
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@Terrence
Yes, and by making the node the width of a USB connector, there's no wasted PCB that you'd get if the PCB were wider.
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@NeverDie Event though there seem to be many benefits to going narrow, what about enclosure sizes, where longer may not be as good as a smaller square?
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@Terrence said in Minimalist SAMD21 TQFP32 Pro Mini:
@NeverDie Event though there seem to be many benefits to going narrow, what about enclosure sizes, where longer may not be as good as a smaller square?
I'll cross that bridge if I come to it.
Meanwhile, what I'm wondering is: just how wide should the PCB be? I tried looking up USB dimensions, but I get conflicting info:
I also tried measuring some with a micrometer. I think it's going to be something around 12mm. My PCB needs to be a minimum of 12.12mm wide in order to avoid pads of the SAMD21 being too close to the edge of the PCB. Is that too wide, or is it within tolerance?
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Maybe you can file the pcb near the usb connector if it is too wide
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i saw this board too, it's nice one
and we can see there is nothing for usb... no fuse, no esd protection, and you touch it and play with it when it's plugged.
I know this works like this, i did it too for proto. i think maybe computers usb ports are perhaps better protected now, but who knows what can happen, so on my side i prefer to have some basic security to not fry my usb ports
If you're doing a proto, this pcb size should be ok, but if it's for using with a radio, especially RFM, then the radio module is wider than the board. I know it because i made my atsam RFM dongle for serial gw.Last advice if i can :), it's a good practice, to route usb datalines in a // way, and like differential lines, meaning they should be almost the same length (with a few % error). That will work sure, without too much care on a small board like that, but still good to know. you should have a tool in your CAD software for this.
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@scalz said in Minimalist SAMD21 TQFP32 Pro Mini:
if it's for using with a radio, especially RFM, then the radio module is wider than the board.
Good point. That might make connecting it a bit difficult! I suppose this form factor is a better match for a surface mount NRF24.
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@NeverDie said in Minimalist SAMD21 TQFP32 Pro Mini:
Just realizing that if I'm going to hand patch the 4 SWD wires onto the board anyway, then I really don't need an SWD block. Consequently, I'm now thinking the Hackaday guy had the right idea with making his entire node the width of a USB connector:
I notice that the Hackaday guy's labeling of D- and D+ as pins 28 and 29 conflicts with what Sparkfun has. Sparkfun has those as pins PA24 and PA25 respectively. Is he wrong? I know from direct experience that the Sparkfun board works, so for now I'm going with the Sparkfun pin mapping.
I hear that the PIC MCU chips have a switching fabric that allows you to map any logical pin to any physical pin. I wish the Atmel chips had that. Do maybe these ARM chips have some of that as well?
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yes it depends what ARM mcu you use, some have more freedom regarding pin mapping and peripherals, but atsam can do that too. Very useful.
There are some rules for atsam how to change the mapping for spi or other periph, versus arduino core files and datasheet. But if you don't want to dig in that, you can just follow a mapping from a board which already exists in Board manager.
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I finished the first pass, and it looks as though everything will fit:
A bit more work to do, but this is the approximate form it would take.
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@NeverDie NRF or RFM?
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@Terrence said in Minimalist SAMD21 TQFP32 Pro Mini:
@NeverDie NRF or RFM?
Neither. This is just the MCU. If I can get it to run blink, then as a next step I'll add a radio.
It's basically a subset of the sparkfun board, but in a different form factor, with a different USB, and all in 2-layer rather than 4-layer. This will be my first ARM board, so I'm just trying to keep it as simple as possible. The razzmatazz can come later.
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I polished up the USB and re-positioned the headers so they'd fit on a breadboard:
The irony is: after having done all that, I can now more clearly see that it's just not a very efficient form factor. I think for future versions I'll make it not so narrow.
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@NeverDie It is an interesting exploration. It seems you don't see it until you get there.
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I just now sent this to OSH Park:
to see whether or not it works. I still don't know how many uH are the value for the one inductor that Sparkfun used though. Any guesses?
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@NeverDie said in Minimalist SAMD21 TQFP32 Pro Mini:
I still don't know how many uH are the value for the one inductor that Sparkfun used though. Any guesses?
I see no inductor on Sparkfun's schematic ? Only a 30 Ohm ferrite bead.
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Thanks! I guessing this part should do the business then: https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/wurth-electronics-inc/742792601/732-4659-1-ND/4310409
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Argh. For only a little more than what I paid for the Sparkfun SamD21, I couldn't have gotten the same MCU with an RFM69HCW! And it's already on a 2-layer board, not a 4-layer board:
https://www.adafruit.com/product/3176
https://www.amazon.com/Adafruit-Feather-RFM69HCW-Packet-Radio/dp/B01K62LWBC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1497022595&sr=8-1&keywords=Adafruit+Feather+M0+RFM69HCW<insert facepalm icon> I should have started with that instead, because that's already probably close to what I'll end up with.
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It's a very good price. If you do it yourself you have a 3$ MCU, 3$+ radio, 1$ PCB and a few US$ for other components (like lipo charger). Leaving only 10$ left for assembly but if you do it yourself you need a lot of time even with a stencil.
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And believe it or not, the LoRa version can be had for as little as $15.99 each with Prime delivery:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LHTU14W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1Yeah, at that price I think this becomes a buy, not build, decision.
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@NeverDie be careful this is a "featherwing" = "shield" style board that you add to the basic "feather" board.
So you need 20$ for feather board + 16$ for radio ... not so cheap anymore
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if i remember well, the adafruit board is SAMD21G.
Here another example, sort of feather i made a while for testing SAMD21E. The same it's rechargeable, and I added some features like a rgb led, sma connector for RFM69/95, flash, signing, MYSX etc..
mounted with a weather extension board i made. If there is an interest, i can clean a bit my files and upload it, it's working well
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@scalz
I'm very interested too. It probably beats my bumbling attempts at making a Sam21DE18, and if it's already working well, what's not to like?
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@NeverDie I love the Feather boards. Currently working with the RFM69 feather. Build in battery connector/charger is very nice to have.
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@NeverDie @Nca78 oki noted!
@Terrence yeah, agree too. i have assembled one for testing as it was new and not available. Unfortunately, regarding Mysensors use, there are no flash for ota (in case for future), no signing, no eeprom for routing table (atsam has no eeprom, only emulation if i remember), no sma connector ...
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@Terrence said in Minimalist SAMD21 TQFP32 Pro Mini:
@NeverDie I love the Feather boards. Currently working with the RFM69 feather. Build in battery connector/charger is very nice to have.
Good to hear!
I ordered one today (after my posting above). There's a good chance I'll receive it on Sunday. I look forward to trying it out.
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@scalz >>Unfortunately, regarding Mysensors use, there are no flash for ota (in case for future), no signing, no eeprom for routing table in mysensors, no sma connector ...
Well so one of you brilliant guys will come up with a FeatherWing that will add all of that functionality right?
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@Terrence and no usb goodies for protection. woops can't be added on an external board
I'm kidding, well, i let others make this featherwing, enough busy on my side
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@scalz Are you still working on that great looking PIR board?
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@Terrence that's a bit OT
yep among others things, and i'm quickly distracted so i need to stay focused
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@scalz I think there is HUGE interest in a good working PIR solution. That gets my vote.
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@Terrence said in Minimalist SAMD21 TQFP32 Pro Mini:
@NeverDie I love the Feather boards. Currently working with the RFM69 feather. Build in battery connector/charger is very nice to have.
Have you found a cheaper source than Amazon for buying them?
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@NeverDie No, Adafruit is the maker/seller and before just recently you had to buy them from them and pay the shipping and slow order fill process.
I have Amazon Prime, so shipping is "free" and they show up in 2 days.
I have never seen them for lower than MSRP.
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Just discovered this, bought with no wifi (no need for it) and usb adapter. It's using a SAMD21E17 (so 16k/128k) but should be enough for playing a bit and I love the stackable usb adapter that you need to buy only once for all your boards.
http://www.wino-board.com/store/en/basic-modules/16-winoboard.html
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What do you guys think of the NRF51822?
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/NRF51822-2-4G-Wireless-Module-Wireless-Communication-Module-Bluetooth-module-zigbee-module-DMX512/32726191346.html?spm=2114.01010208.3.16.u9URcX&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_5_10152_10065_10151_10068_10130_10136_10137_10060_10155_10062_437_10154_10056_10055_10054_10059_303_100031_10099_10103_10102_10096_10052_10053_10142_10107_10050_10051_5030014_10084_10083_10119_10080_10082_10081_10178_10110_519_10111_10112_10113_10114_10182_10078_10079_10073_10123_10120_10189_142,searchweb201603_1,ppcSwitch_4&btsid=bdb83fff-e500-45cf-becd-3dfdfd896dad&algo_expid=5ab8c3b2-cd02-4c0a-8ea8-941792ebfedc-2&algo_pvid=5ab8c3b2-cd02-4c0a-8ea8-941792ebfedc
The dev boards are really cheap, and they come with a capable mcu.
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What I find even more interesting than that, though, is "extended range" Bluetooth, which might very well be the all-in-one tiny module that does it all: http://www.cypress.com/blog/psoc-creator-news-and-information/design-long-range-bluetooth-applications-new-ez-ble-psoc-xtxr
No need to add an NRF24L01 or an RFM69 module, because for home automation, the extended range version of bluetooth should have adequate range already. And it has a capable ARM MCU built in.
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@NeverDie radio mcus are nice
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@NeverDie I love the new 51840 (the one that does the long distance, the 832 is the High throughput chip) Please work with the 840.
I have the nRF52840 Preview DK, but have not fired it up yet. Still trying to understand how to code Bluetooth.
http://www.nordicsemi.com/eng/Products/nRF52840-Preview-DK.SiLabs has an interesting Gecko BT5 chip as well.
http://www.silabs.com/products/wireless/bluetooth/blue-gecko-bluetooth-smart-socs
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1 megabyte of flash and 256K of RAM! And long range too! Wow, that NRF52840 takes things to a whole new level. When will we be seeing regular modules with it beyond just the developer kits?
Also, the inevitable question: is it programmable through the Arduino IDE? I sure hope the answer is yes.
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840 is pretty new, and if i'm not wrong, final version is planned in few month for end of year (it's a bga package, and preview version), there are a very few modules actually, but expensive to order, for a beta though. So if there is a support for it in Arduino, it could be not complete yet. i'll tell you more when i'll get mine
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OK, so if we wanted to make something today (or, at least before the end of the year), what module should we use now such that the nRF52840 will be an easy upgrade when it arrives later and sells for (hopefully) cheap on Aliexpress? Would it be the nRF51422 (which I don't believe does long range)? In fact, I'm not sure whether Nordic has anything long range before this nRF52840. That's kinda why I was looking at the cypress or silicon labs product lines, not knowing that Nordic had something in the wings already.
When it does become available, it looks as though it will be around $7 for quantity 1: http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Nordic-Semiconductor/nRF52840-QIAA-R7/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMve4%2FbfQkoj%2bGh7uW9JJ8VYnj7XFjezTdQ%3D
Actually, it says 16 week lead time, so that's more or less consistent with what Scalz said.
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This whole topic has been brewing in the back of my mind for a couple years now:
https://forum.mysensors.org/topic/1788/nrf51822-as-an-all-in-one
and
https://forum.mysensors.org/topic/3836/anyone-besides-me-looking-into-long-range-bluetooth-for-their-wireless-nodesWith the nRF52840, it looks as though the moment has finally arrived to tie it all together and give it a try.
I just have no idea where to even begin though. Just order the nRF52840 preview DK? Is it fairly quick to get something up and running, or is it a fairly steep learning curve?
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@Terrence said in Minimalist SAMD21 TQFP32 Pro Mini:
@NeverDie I love the new 51840 (the one that does the long distance, the 832 is the High throughput chip) Please work with the 840.
I have the nRF52840 Preview DK, but have not fired it up yet. Still trying to understand how to code Bluetooth.
http://www.nordicsemi.com/eng/Products/nRF52840-Preview-DK.SiLabs has an interesting Gecko BT5 chip as well.
http://www.silabs.com/products/wireless/bluetooth/blue-gecko-bluetooth-smart-socsEven though you said 840 rather than 832, might the 832 yet still be a decent way to get started?
https://www.adafruit.com/product/3406
And then transition to the 840 when it becomes more available? At least the 832 is in the same nRF52 samily as the 840.My hunch is that bluetooth long range is going to win, because regular bluetooth is already baked into everything.
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@NeverDie I think the 832 would be a good start until the 840 is available. I think all programming will be the same for when we switch over the 840. I am not 100% sure though.
I have been looking at the AdaFruit 832 since it came out, but have not pulled the trigger yet, as I have not yet opened my 840 dev kit.
We can definitely program the AdaFruit 832 with Arduino.
I agree with you that BT5 long range is the way to the future due to it's low energy, great built in security, long range and no additional chip required.... and >>because regular bluetooth is already baked into everything.
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I agree with @Terrence
For end users, i think you won't see a big diff in Arduino when 840 will be released. but they are not really the same inside..
Also 840 is Nordic flagship, so it won't be as cheap as nrf51 series soon. And the same applies to 832 which is still affordable regarding specs. That's why they've released the 810, for lower cost, same RF perf as 832, but less memory.
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@scalz said in Minimalist SAMD21 TQFP32 Pro Mini:
same RF perf as 832, but less memory
but no long range right?
So scalz it is your understanding that the coding will be the same on the 832 and when we start getting the 840, but the distance will just increase?
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I tried looking at the description on Mouser for the nRF52840 Preview Development Kit,
and it's not obvious as to whether it even comes with any of the modules. So, I guess I could get it to do mcu tricks, but I'm wondering now whether it can even communicate with anything wirelessly until 16 weeks from now?
Also, it's not clear to me yet whether the Nordic modules are truly "long range" rather than just better range. I get the impression they do some coding gain without actually increasing transmit power. That's fine, I suppose, although the datasheet (http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/297/nRF52840_OPS_v0.5-1074816.pdf) does describe the link budget (with coding gain?) as being only 104dB, which isn't exactly awesome.
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@NeverDie
The nRF52840 PDK is a versatile single board development kit for Bluetooth 5, Bluetooth low energy, ANT, 802.15.4 and 2.4GHz proprietary applications using the nRF52840 SoC. This kit supports development for the nRF52840 SoC.http://www.nordicsemi.com/eng/Products/nRF52840-Preview-DK
https://devzone.nordicsemi.com/blogs/1093/Cool drone video of 840 long range.
Nordic Semiconductor – Bluetooth 5 Long Range Test with nRF52840 – 04:03
— Nordic Semiconductor
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That's pretty impressive..
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A better test would have been to test the range while still maintaining a sufficiently low packet error rate. Their test criteria was just "still receiving packets," which could have meant a very high packet error rate, which isn't really useful information.
At the end of the day, it's the link budget that seems to matter most in comparing different radios. The higher the link budget, the better the range (in apples to apples comparison, where a particular packet error rate is what determines practical "range").
So, for comparison, a LoRa radio has a link budget as high as around 156dB (that's with the lowest bitrate and the highest coding gain). It's arguably far more than you need for home automation, but then again, I'd rather have overkill than underkill.
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@NeverDie said in Minimalist SAMD21 TQFP32 Pro Mini:
A better test would have been to test the range while still maintaining a sufficiently low packet error rate. Their test criteria was just "still receiving packets," which could have meant a very high packet error rate, which isn't really useful information.
I think at the moment the guy says he doesn't see a single drop, or something like that. I understood "all packets arrived".
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I notice though that they show the link budet for the 840 is 111dB. Well, that's encouraging. The datasheet says "104 dB link budget for Bluetooth low energy," so I guess they're using a different mode.
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I was really keen to try the nrf52832, in lieu of the nRF52840 until it became available, because of the OTA wireless update capability. Then I dug a bit further, and on the Adafruit website (https://learn.adafruit.com/bluefruit-nrf52-feather-learning-guide/using-the-bootloader) it says "This option is not actively support nor recommended by Adafruit, and we are still working on making this as safe as possible for users via our Bluefruit LE Connect application. Use OTA DFU at your own risk knowing you can brick your device and may need a Segger J-Link or similar device to regain control of it!"
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I have the Adafruit Feather M0 RFM69 nominally working doing Blink plus a little more. Adafruit appears to provide zero demo code for the LowPowerLab library, though it does for the RadioHead library. Therefore, I haven't yet figured out what I need to change in my code to make it talk to the Radio, but that's next.
So far I'm not at all liking the "two in one" usb connection: one for programming it and one for the serial console. The transition and sharing between them only rarely goes smoothly. Not sure if that will ever get ironed out over time or whether two physically different usb connections (as some of the other arduino boards provide) would be better.
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OK, I've got the Adafruit Feather M0 RFM69 radio working now. To make it work with the LowPowerLab library, you need to delete the following from the RFM69.h file:
#elif defined(__arm__)//Use pin 10 or any pin you want #define RF69_IRQ_PIN 10 #define RF69_IRQ_NUM 10and replace it with:
#elif defined(ARDUINO_SAMD_FEATHER_M0) // Feather M0 w/Radio #define RF69_SPI_CS 8 #define RF69_IRQ_PIN 3 #define RF69_IRQ_NUM 3 #define LED 13That's all there is to it!
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@NeverDie
all you have to do is set your defines for mysensors and this should work out of the box
about the usb, weird, i've no problem here. what problem do you have? here it works smoothly (with custom board, but i have also an adafruit m0 proto, worked well too)
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@scalz
Well, first, for the benefit of others who may be reading this but who aren't familiar with the two USB paradigm, this is how it looks on the Arduino Due:
There are two physically distinct USB connections, but you can have both connected to your computer at the same time. The "Native USB Port" lets you read the console output, and the "Programming port" is for uploading new sketches. It works fine. I like it.So, with that as background, on both the Adafruit Feather M0 SamD21 and the Sparkfun M0 SamD21, there is the same concept, but only one physical USB port. So, let's say I just uploaded a sketch and then want to immediately switch to the "Native USB Port" so that I can read debugging information. Well, that doesn't happen automatically (as it should really). Instead, I get an error message which reads, "Couldn't find a Board on the selected port. Check that you have the correct port selected. If it is correct, try pressing the board's reset button after initiating the upload.
processing.app.SerialException: Error opening serial port 'COM45'."
Then, I have to go to the Tool menu and manually select Com44 and then open the serial console. Well, by then, the debug info would have already passed by, because it doesn't reboot upon opening the serial console. So, I've added a delay countdown to give me time to do this.And, by the way, every single time I upload a new sketch, it always reports, "An error occured while uploading the sketch," even though if I look at the details, it shows that it uploaded and even verified the upload, and even--sure enough--it really did upload. So, that part is really beginning to bother me, even though maybe it shouldn't. It's true for both the Adafruit and the Sparkfun Samd21 boards.
Anyhow, it looks like the Hackaday guy did a board with two physical USBs, and maybe that's a good idea?
Or maybe it's still just one USB connection and three different connector types? Not really sure.
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Anyhow, I guess what I could do is simply write my serial debug output to a pair of Rx and Tx pins, and then I could side-step the whole mess without getting entangled in it. Not very elegant, but it would serve the purpose until I learn the ins-and-outs better.
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You will always have the issue of USB connection, when using a native USB device, because it will re-enumerate on the USB bus whenever you reset the device.
That's also why you have to put the following code
while(Serial) {}In the setup routine of sketches with native usb devices, if you expect to catch all debug messages from the start. This behavior does not change if you have both native and a programming port.
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By the way (and it's just an as yet an unverified first impression), but it seems like the RSSI received on the Feather RFM69 is much better than on an atmega328p RFM69 combo. If that bears out, then all by itself it might be reason to switch. Anyone else get this impression, or not?
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@tbowmo said in Minimalist SAMD21 TQFP32 Pro Mini:
while(Serial) {}
Cool. I just tried it. It turns out it's actually
while(!Serial) {}but it works great. Thanks!
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about rfm69 and better rssi, it could also be related to ground plane size of the board.
and for mcu, yep no need of the programming port. native is enough if there is the bootloader.
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@scalz said in Minimalist SAMD21 TQFP32 Pro Mini:
@NeverDie
all you have to do is set your defines for mysensors and this should work out of the boxI just now noticed that @Sweeman already did: https://forum.mysensors.org/topic/6908/adafruit-feather-m0-rfm69hcw-with-mysensors/6
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I hadn't noticed it before, but it looks like even Arduino will have an NRF52 board: http://www.arduino.org/products/boards/arduino-primo
Of course, that's a very good thing! Unfortunately, they don't seem to be in stock anywhere, even though they were first released in March, 2016. What's up with that?
So, I've ordered a couple of these to try out:
https://www.amazon.com/Adafruit-Feather-nRF52-Bluefruit-nRF52832/dp/B06XXSVYLC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1498743679&sr=8-1&keywords=nrf52The good news is that NRF52 modules don't seem to require many external parts, and for self-assembly that's a real advantage.
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Looks like a fully integrated board can be had for <$9, including e-packet delivery:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/nRF52832-Bluetooth-4-1-BLE-Module-M4-Transparent-Transmission-SMA-512K-FLASH-64K-RAM-pass-through/32798522093.html?spm=2114.01010208.3.17.YON8eD&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_5_10152_10065_10151_10130_10068_5210015_10136_10137_10060_10155_10062_437_10154_10056_10055_10054_10059_303_100031_10099_10103_10102_5290015_10096_5320015_10052_10053_10107_10050_10142_10051_5280015_10084_10083_5250016_10119_10080_10082_10081_10178_10110_519_10111_10112_10113_5240015_10114_5230016_10182_10078_10079_5260014_10073_10123_10120_10189_5270015_142-10120,searchweb201603_49,ppcSwitch_4&btsid=02e4720e-a974-4d92-a890-0cd0f6510022&algo_expid=87b18aca-7c4a-43a5-8995-4d45694a7044-2&algo_pvid=87b18aca-7c4a-43a5-8995-4d45694a7044
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@NeverDie I was about to pull the trigger on some of those, but I can't seem to get my mind off of the potential long distance of the 840. I wonder when the world will be blessed with those modules?
Looking forward to your experience with the Adafruit BLE boards.
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@Terrence said in Minimalist SAMD21 TQFP32 Pro Mini:
I wonder when the world will be blessed with those modules?
I wouldn't wait for them. Will probably take at least half a year or so (according to Nordic)
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@Yveaux You are correct, use what is available, not what will be in the future.
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@Terrence said in Minimalist SAMD21 TQFP32 Pro Mini:
@NeverDie I was about to pull the trigger on some of those, but I can't seem to get my mind off of the potential long distance of the 840.
Same here, but hopefully (?) most of what I learn with the 832 will be applicable to the 840. The 840 is clearly more desirable, and I probably wouldn't have pulled the trigger on the 832 if I didn't know the 840 was coming.
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@NeverDie said in Minimalist SAMD21 TQFP32 Pro Mini:
most of what I learn with the 832 will be applicable to the 840
Right. I have been trying to get my head around the BT communication pattern. It is a different beast indeed.
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Looks as though the 52 Thingy might be a good starting point for some people:
http://www.mouser.com/new/nordicsemiconductor/nordic-thingy-52/
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What I'm not sure about is whether the NRF52832 will have truly adequate indoor range. Max tx power is 4db, which is better than the 0db of the NRF24L01. Will that be enough? I can only guess. That's why I ordered two of the Adafruit NRF52832 feathers: to see for myself. If they disappoint, then I may shelve them until the 840 becomes more available, and then try again using the 840. On the other hand, if the 832 turns out to be "good enough", then the 840 may not matter so much.
I do like that it apparently is programmable from within the Arduino IDE. That will make trying it out a lot easier. If the OTA uploads are easy to do, then I'll be really happy.
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@NeverDie
nrf52832 is definitely better than nrf24l01. if i'm not wrong, 4db can double range in theory.
For range, an important point is the antenna, as you already know.
Chip antenna can be ok, depending on the environment and usecase, but can't compete with a rfm69. These antennas are not for long range, so the adafruit board. How to miniaturize antennas without loosing performance..
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@scalz said in Minimalist SAMD21 TQFP32 Pro Mini:
These antennas are not for long range, so the adafruit board. How to miniaturize antennas without loosing performance..
Good point. Looks as though the aliexpress module I referenced above, though, does have some kind of antenna connector on it:
So, maybe plugging something (?) into that would give better range?Also, I just now read that these 832 modules can communicate with the older NRF24L01's. Is that true? That would be nice.
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@NeverDie
yes these one looks better. looks like you can also tune ant (there are some footprints).
note the "meandered" antenna. it reduces antenna size, needs some tuning, a bit less efficient vs others type. but maybe better than chip antenna i think. and you have the ipex in case, cool!
Not so cheap (not fcc) but interesting i agree.Yes, indeed! it's compatible with nrf24 thx to @d00616
You should try, i'm using my nrf52 board (aeos) with my esp32 gw (halo)
And the cherry, with VS Micro, and multiple serial monitors in same ide
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@scalz said in Minimalist SAMD21 TQFP32 Pro Mini:
And the cherry, with VS Micro, and multiple serial monitors in same ide
Guys I have been developing with VS Code (free) for Arduino type coding. been very happy with it. It does not have multi serial monitors (not that I know of).
Anyone else using VS Code?
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@Terrence said in Minimalist SAMD21 TQFP32 Pro Mini:
@scalz said in Minimalist SAMD21 TQFP32 Pro Mini:
And the cherry, with VS Micro, and multiple serial monitors in same ide
Guys I have been developing with VS Code (free) for Arduino type coding. been very happy with it. It does not have multi serial monitors (not that I know of).
Anyone else using VS Code?What are its advantages that are the reason for your preferring it?
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@NeverDie I prefer it over the Arduino platform, not VS Micro.
It is a super lightweight editor, but really powerful with added extensions.
In Windows Explorer, right click a folder and click on "Open with Code' and the folder and all code files are there.I have been using Visual Studio for work for a decade. It is a very heavy capable environment, but too heavy for simple ino projects.
I used VS Micro 3 years ago or so, but I can't compare the two.
https://code.visualstudio.com/
Here is a snip showing the Arduino extension.
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I received the adafruit nrf52 feathers today, and I'm really quite shocked: adafruit doesn't supply any demo code (at least none that I can find) which would allow two nrf52 feathers to talk to one another. In fact, most of the demo code has nothing to do with bluetooth at all! This is very disappointing.
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@NeverDie I guess they just rely on mySensors for the communication
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@Yveaux said in Minimalist SAMD21 TQFP32 Pro Mini:
@NeverDie I guess they just rely on mySensors for the communication
Wait, does mysensors demo code already work using the nrf52832?
If not, does anyone know of some demo code somewhere that demos two 832's communicating (like there's plenty of demo code already for the NRF24L01)? I really don't want to figure this out from scratch using just the datasheet. Been there and done that already with the RFM69, and I don't want to have to do it again with the NRF52832. If there is not already a good "load and go" demo somewhere, then I'm going to return these modules to Amazon.
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@NeverDie
Adafruit only provides examples for Bluetooth.regarding mysensors, i have answered here https://forum.mysensors.org/post/70297
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sidenote i forgot to say:
your adafruit board should have a bootloader inside, so you can burn a sketch from arduino just by using ftdi (and allows some other features like ota etc). This is why i've also added dtr signal on my aeos in case.
But I've not tried this configuration yet, and if i'm not wrong adafruit added freertos to their core files.
So, i have no idea if burning a mysensors sketch by using adafruit boards in Arduino (so their core) will work out of the box.As, for the moment, i burn my mcus by using swd programmer (like for the atsam), and use the sandeep core files, in Arduino board manager, with custom board definition regarding my boards as i have not this adafruit board,I made mine before, else i would have ordered one :).
I hope my explanations are clear, don't hesitate in case
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@scalz
I've been able to run Blink on the Adafruit NRF52 by compiling the Adafruit example Blink program within the Arduino IDE and then uploading it to the Adafruit NRF52 over the USB cable using the Arduino IDE, if that's what you mean. That part seems to work as intended, and it behaves just like any other Arduino in that respect. It's just that I had wrongly imagined that NRF52's would be communicating with each other using Bluetooth, and instead it sounds like (?) they'll actually be using a different, non-Bluetooth mode, for that--which is fine by me.If I understand you correctly, I should be able to just upload the mysensors demo code (one for a gateway and one for a node) to my two Adafruit NRF52's, and that's all it should take for them to then be communicating in a normal mysensors way. Is that right? If so, that would be very welcome news indeed.
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@NeverDie
yes, you just need to do this
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@scalz
Are you sure? I just tried compiling the SerialGateway example inside the Arduino IDE with the board set to "Adafruit Bluefruit NRF52 Feather, " and it won't even compile. Looking at mysensors.h file, I think I can see why:// Enable radio "feature" if one of the radio types was enabled #if defined(MY_RADIO_NRF24) || defined(MY_RADIO_RFM69) || defined(MY_RADIO_RFM95) || defined(MY_RS485) #define MY_SENSOR_NETWORK #endif // HARDWARE #if defined(ARDUINO_ARCH_ESP8266) #include "core/MyHwESP8266.cpp" #elif defined(ARDUINO_ARCH_AVR) #include "drivers/AVR/DigitalWriteFast/digitalWriteFast.h" #include "core/MyHwAVR.cpp" #elif defined(ARDUINO_ARCH_SAMD) #include "core/MyHwSAMD.cpp" #elif defined(__linux__) #include "core/MyHwLinuxGeneric.cpp" #endifThe library seems to have no recognition capability for either the NRF52 nor for any board based on it.
What do I need to modify to get it to work? Anyone know?
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@NeverDie what MySensors library are you using? Nrf52 is only supported in development.
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Yveaux is right, you need to use development branch of Mysensors, and just need to enable this define:
#define MY_RADIO_NRF5_ESBYou can also get more details here:
https://www.openhardware.io/view/376/MySensors-NRF5-Platform
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I had been using the publicly released Mysensors library, but after your suggestions I switched over to the developers release.
So, now a new obstacle: if I compile using the board set as an Adafruit Bluefruit nRF52 Feather, I get the following fatal compile error:
Build options changed, rebuilding all In file included from C:\Users\CoolerMaster\Documents\Arduino\mysensors sketches\GatewaySerial_v002\GatewaySerial_v002.ino:85:0: C:\Users\CoolerMaster\Documents\Arduino\libraries\MySensors/MySensors.h:352:2: error: #error No support for nRF5 radio on this platform #error No support for nRF5 radio on this platform ^ exit status 1 Error compiling for board Adafruit Bluefruit nRF52 Feather.However, if I switch over to the "Generic nRF52" board from Nordic Semiconductor, it compiles just fine, but it hangs while uploading.
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@NeverDie
yep that's what i was talking, regarding adafruit&core in board manager.
That would be easier to just use sandeep core only (as adafruit core is an extension using bootloader), and then use one of the boards available for nrf52.You could try that :
- select NRF52 generic or DK in board manager (so this uses sandeep core)
- Select Softdevice : no
- Programmer : J-link
- Connect SWD programmer
- upload sketch
this should work, you'll just loose the adafruit bootloader feature i think.
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I tried using the ST-LINK V2 programmer that I got from Amazon, but I think maybe (?) it's junk: almost nothing seems to recognize it after I've plugged it in. I've installed the USB driver for it from the ST website, and I've tried connecting to it using the ST-LINK utility program. It did recognize it long enough to identify its firmware and to actually (or so it said) upgrade its firmware to the current version. However, even that program can't seem to "connect" with it for anything else other than upgrading the firmware. Arduino doesn't see it at all.
So, maybe I need a better programmer? Is the DK for the 52832 from Nordic the one to get, or should I get something else (preferably something which might also work with the 52840 when that becomes available)?
An actual J-Link from Segger is priced at >$400. Are the cheap Aliexpress knock-offs just as good?
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/V9-the-LINK-J-LINK-ARM-emulator-support-A9A8-V9-4-high-speed-download-speed/32806221560.html?spm=2114.01010208.3.1.JlcJUT&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_5_10152_10065_10151_10068_10130_10084_10083_10119_10080_10082_10081_10110_10178_10136_10137_519_10111_10060_10112_10113_10155_10114_437_10154_10056_10055_10054_10182_10059_303_100031_10099_10078_10079_10103_10073_10102_10120_10052_10053_10142_10107_142_10050_10051,searchweb201603_49,ppcSwitch_4&btsid=55ccaf9e-4381-4041-87de-32344016ca8e&algo_expid=281f8f71-cf63-4236-b1e7-4fbf7703f3dc-0&algo_pvid=281f8f71-cf63-4236-b1e7-4fbf7703f3dc
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So, I went ahead and ordered this:
https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/1PC-JLI-V9-J-LINK-ARM-emulator-support-A9A8-V9-3-high-speed-download/1710342_32790881245.html?spm=2114.12010615.0.0.5qtBo0since it has e-packet delivery. Hopefully it's not a complete waste of money. Unfortunately, I guess there's not much more I can do until it arrives....
Anything else I should get to go with it? Like maybe:
https://www.amazon.com/ARM-JTAG-20-10-ARM-Micro-JTAG-adapter/dp/B009UEO9ZY/ref=pd_sim_21_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B009UEO9ZY&pd_rd_r=C8G4T1QSJT3YVC6CQADF&pd_rd_w=CsX9i&pd_rd_wg=OIb04&psc=1&refRID=C8G4T1QSJT3YVC6CQADF
and/or
https://www.amazon.com/Gikfun-J-link-Emulator-Adapter-Converter/dp/B00RBHOSTY/ref=pd_sim_21_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00RBHOSTY&pd_rd_r=C8G4T1QSJT3YVC6CQADF&pd_rd_w=CsX9i&pd_rd_wg=OIb04&psc=1&refRID=C8G4T1QSJT3YVC6CQADF
and/or something else?Is there by any chance some kind of bit-bang equivalent that someone has already developed? With arduino's being so cheap, I'd think there'd be a way to use one as a programmer, or at least as some kind of uploader, to an ARM mcu. I mean, how hard can it be?
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Since it seems I'll be forced to use a programmer, the adafruit advantages completely go out the window. Therefore, I ordered a couple of these, which will probably (?) be just as good in the end, but a whole lot cheaper:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/nRF52832-Bluetooth-4-1-BLE-Module-M4-Transparent-Transmission-SMA-512K-FLASH-64K-RAM-pass-through/32798522093.html?spm=2114.01010208.3.17.YON8eD&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0&aff_platform=aaf&cpt=1499046377472&sk=e2Vzr3v&aff_trace_key=0cb03246d5ed4112b865663460b55419-1499046377472-08913-e2Vzr3vI like that they have through-holes and not just castellated connectors. That will make them much easier to wire up.
