@JahFyahh - I still haven't managed to et round to it. I've been really busy since this project and its still hectic here. I'm sure i read a few reviews somewhere, here or google. Not sure.
Hello,
I'm thinking about upgrading this board to include pinout for LIS3DH breakout board, like this one :
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/LIS3DH-Three-Converters-Motion-Accelerometer-Triaxial-Acceleration-Temperature-Sensor-Module-Development-Board-Replace-ADXL345/32840326778.html
and ditch the ADXL shield as it's not a good solution, it has either the ADXL345 which uses too much power, or the ADXL362 which is ultra low power but lacks advanced functionality like tap/double tap detection.
I would like to have feedback of users on this (do it sound useful ?), and also know if anyone uses the SMD footprints on the board, for leds and for reserve capacitors, as it could be a cleaner board without those footprints.
I would make the following changes :
put footprint for LIS3DH accelerometer along the "NModule connector" as it has too many pins to put elsewhere
keep only one I2C footprint on the side, for "GY-49" MAX44009 light sensor breakout board: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/GY-49-MAX44009-Ambient-Light-Sensor-Module-for-Arduino-with-4P-Pin-Header-Module/32828654450.html
temperature/humidity would be via the existing "SMD" footprint, it's not through hole but very easy to solder as it's 2.54mm pad spacing
remove SMD footprints for LED, add footprint for through hole reserve capacitor, keep SMD footprints for reserve capacitors only if I have space for them
shield would be a bit extended to go over the 2 M2 holes in the "power" part of the NModule, so it could be fitted with spacers and nylon screws and have stable/reliable mechanical connection between NModule and Shield. Basically this would be the footprint of the shield :
So in the end it would make one shield to have Temperature/Humidity/Light/Acceleration or Temperature/Humidity/Light/Door.
I didn't think the voltage drop would make enough of a difference to notice, but i guess it does. I might have to research and look for a more efficient Mosfet.
@Nca78 Yes, I was actually thinking using DIP switch (or even more easy to read thumbwheel switch) to give a unique ID to each node! As soon as I receive the extra radio modules I ordered, I'll test that.
@Grubstake I'm afraid you're right! But it's ok to have just a few days of battery life. As I wrote, it might be often disassembled and reassembled.
Hi,
nice projet. I am very interested in it.
But why you are using 5 V and not 3.3 V? The ATmea328 works with 3.3 V too and the NRF have to use 3.3 V.
The only restriction on 3.3 V is the clock limitation for the Atmega (8 MHz). But with no crystal it don't care.
For example you could use an HLK-PM03 instead of HLK-PM01 and remove the linear voltage regulator. So you get more space an everything have the same voltage level.
And another point is, it is recommended to use a capacitor (0.1 µF) to ground for each voltage pin (Vcc, Avcc, Aref).
