My Project

Sorry, I can't help you with EasyEDA. I'm familiar with EAGLE and KiCAD only. Maybe I've been too ambiguous or you misunderstood what I wrote earlier. I suggested to add 100 nF (Nanofarad; 100 nF = 0.1 µF) ceramic capacitors to every VCC/GND pair, but you have added 100 µF (Microfarad) electrolytic capacitors in your schematic. With "every VCC/GND pair" I was referring to the ATmega only, which has multiple VCC/GND pins (pins 7+8 and 20+22 for the THT package you are using), not to every device / module in your circuit. Change C1, C3 and C3 to 100 nF ceramic and add 100 µF electrolytic as a buffer. You can remove C2. You are now pulling RESET low, which means you are holding the MCU in a reset state forever. Pull it high to VCC instead. If you are going to use a voltage divider to measure the battery voltage, you have to read the voltage in between the two resistors. Refer to the Measuring and Reporting Battery Level section in the Battery Powered Sensors guide for the proper setup. You could also measure the voltage without external hardware if you want to keep it minimal. Here's an example sketch. Besides that, I highly suggest you build your circuit on a breadboard or similar first and test it before you order your designed PCB.

@hek we have plenty of hydro alcoholic gel available here in Vietnam, and they all contain ethanol and not IPA, which is a skin irritant and doesn't seem to be a good idea to use for hand sanitizer as you need high concentration for alcohol to be efficient on the virus. You should change the recipe of your "quick and easy" version, to use ethanol as recommended by WHO. @NeverDie For the survival of the virus new studies show a survival up to 3 days on some surfaces like inox. But that's the best case scenario for the virus, on most surfaces and in most conditions it seems it will just die in a matter of hours. So unless you have a very fast shipping (would be surprising with the number of international flights plummeting), you have nothing to fear. https://www.sciencedaily.com/releases/2020/03/200317150116.htm And now the main risk if you are in the US, EU etc is probably from the employees of the delivery company, as there are probably way more active cases in the US/EU than in China outside of the Hubei province. So when you receive a package, open it outside, get rid of the packaging, and if you're paranoid let it wait a few days in garage/storage room. Then wash your hands carefully, and you risk nothing.

@mfalkvidd I was to quick, it was working so I used it to solder a PCB. That did not work, so tested again on a breadboard. Now it did not work. So I tried: 4.7 22 33k 47 47+22 Both on the breadboard and directly connected, not with power from the batteries and from the arduino, but it not work. He never gets a reply back. So it has worked, but know it doesn’t, when I connect a stable powersupply it works. What else should I try?

Finally I've solved. I'm still using UIPEthernet sincee my problem was the use of DHT library (last rev) with UIPEhernet lib. I was having a restart of teh ETH port each time I was reading Temp/hum. I've changed into SimpleDHT lib and now it's working fine. I'm using a mix of W5100 and ENC28J60.

@Anthalas CO2 concentration at the fermentation trap outlet could work once you calibrate it, but a simpler method would be listening or watching for bubbles passing in a minute or less, hear them check again tomorrow or in 12 hours, hear none call ET, it's party time? ;) I used to open the cupboard and look, but that was in the days of black and white when caves were caves, but still a tried and tested technique if it doesn't work :)

@Sullivan-Buchs thanks for your code, quiet unique piece. The only working one I found! I changed the hardware a little to use the TX led from the same sensor board. Sended a pull request, if you prefer to adopt it.

@skywatch Thnaks! :+1: The main goal of this board is to offer a simple way to build any kind (RFM69 and NRF24 support, MYSX connector) of compact battery powered node. Today I have finished the first node based on this board: a door window sensor (reed switch). [image: 1582478511195-20200223_175502.jpg] If someone is interested, here the detailed build instructions. The next node based on this board will be a soil moisture sensor!

@skywatch :sweat_smile:

Few topics before I posted about our wired home automation project based on MySensors: https://forum.mysensors.org/topic/10921/getwired-rs485-mysensors-home-automation-modules Please have a look :) In case of any questions, please feel free to ask me.

I had assumed a pressure cooker would have to be made out of metal, but I see you can buy plastic pressure cookers on Amazon for even just $10. With that you could get the RF out no problem. That makes the whole problem much easier.

I have tried Domoticz, Mozilla WebThings and Home Assistant. So far the best is Home Assistant, it has many integrations and a nice UI. If you want to be able to access it outsite your network I recommend ZeroTier (had many issues trying thru the router).

Long story short, try 433.55 MHz I tried for years to received my Chacon Ecowatt 800 (a rebranded Efergy 2 classic) data. I knew the frequency wasn't 433.92 MHz. I lastly opened transmitter case to find which RF chip was used ... but I didn't get any datasheet for the "A71C03AUF" I found :( On last resort, I sought a signal on all "433.92MHz" ISM band (433.05~434.79 MHz, with sdr-sharp). I did find something centered on 433.51 (433.47 and 433.56, FSK?) MHz. As for Somfy stuff (which uses 433.42 MHz), many generic receiver can't work with those *special" 433MHz frequencies. In the end, I tested this new frequency using rtl-433 and guess what, there's a working Efergy module ! Moreover, I did not make a great discover, 433.55MHz is well precised in the "efergy_e2_classic.c" module comments... RFM69 or NRF24L01 may be frequency ajustable!