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Smart spinner :smile: [image: 1503154091337-img_2017-08-02_111958-resized.jpeg] https://youtu.be/RcAlW9_8gjk

Damm I am trying to get this working with a Arduino pro mini ,,but no luck wanted to use it in the car .. How do you wire the NRF24L01+ ??? N-Channel Mosfet s ??? model number please any help much appreciated I have tried mosfets >>>irf510n

Success! @sundberg84 and @Nca78 you will be proud of me when I tell you that I was doing everything "correct" all the time, it is just that arudino IDE had some stupid bug or something. I had to delete everything mentioning Arduino from the pc, and reinstall the IDE, and now all works as expected! It was a stupid thing hunting me for year(s) now that I think about it. I always assumed that ftdi cannot be used with other then the original bootloader, because of stupid error noone ever heard about :( At the end, I used this repo https://github.com/joe-speedboat/Arduino-LowPower and added new definitions in the boards.txt, then copied relevant bootloaders (and files in "variants" folder). And repeated all the steps above, and everything works great now. I have a 1mhz arduino blinking correctly, and going down to 1.8v, and sending correct temperatures and all Life is worth living again!

In deep Sleep the cunsumption is below 19µA, but i have to send with PA_MAX. On some Windows the open/close frequency is verry high, so the battery is to fast emty. The CR2032 is good, but i want more "lifetime"

Project completed. :)

The choice of MOSFET can be tricky. Seems that irlz44n was discontinued so you may need to find one adapted to the voltage and current you want to handle. In all the cases you need to get a logic MOSFET too, meaning that they are fully open usually around 1 to 3V. Also I'm sort of confused as it seems to me that L7812CV is a Voltage regulator, not a MOSFET. So if you are actually using that in the MOSFET spot it will definitively not work. Especially if you are handling high current or voltage I would recommend using one from a reputable source for your MOSFET, I recently switched from mouser / digikey / aliexpress to mostly use http://www.arrow.com as you get free regular shipping, event if you order a couple of components (no affiliation to them whatsoever).

Ok thank you @Nca78

Finally solved a lot of problems and checked a lot of mistakes. But now the first version of this device works almost properly :trollface: [image: 1500843712297-img_2017-07-21_135230-resized.jpeg] I will make a small report in the description asap :)

@Jonathan-Roberts said in 💬 Simple AC/DC Switch WeMos: @nca78 bummer. So I think 2 options... What if the Wemos is raised off the PCB. That would be almost 5/8". In your experience would that help? And maybe the best option, slide the antenna module straight down,. move the relay up and spin it around so the connections are on the outside edge. I'm trying to make this multi-purpose and allowing both headers to be fully functional to other projects. thx for the advise. 1 would help but not that much. It's already not a good thing to have the transformer just next to it on the side, so you should avoid blocking one more direction with tracks. I don't understand your necessity to have connectors available for something else on the relay that is too high to put anything on top ? 2 sounds like a much better option, make sure you have nothing right and left of the antenna when you move things around. The problem you will have with this layout is the USB in that situation... It doesn't sound like a great idea to me to use Wemos on this board especially for the relay part, it's just a cheap chinese relay with 3/4 components so why not just put them directly on you board to make the layout so much easier ? I have the feeling that you're trying to make things "easier" by using Wemos and its shields, but in the end you seem to lose more than you gain. And neither does it seem "safer" to use their relay shield as it forces you to have extra wires between main of the HLK and relay shield connector.

@Nca78 Well, for small potted plants, you might have to re-pot the plant. However, the nice benefit that would arise is: no visible sensors, which carries with it very high WAF.

@onehorse Thanks for posting your gerber files. Do you have a BOM as well?

Okay, finally got the original nrf24l01 SMD modules with the square chip visible... As exptected, things work just fine now, so the culprit of my issues was really the incompatible/fake "nrf24l01" SMD modules with the epoxy blob. If you want to use normal nrf24l01+ modules together with this smd gateway, DO NOT USE the smd module with the epoxy blob, as they won't work. Using only the fake SMD modules might work, too, but mixing the fake modules with real ones does not work.

@Dwalt Thank you very much, now I understand better why the measurement of the voltage on input A0 was never good ..

No demo code. Sorry.

@LastSamurai Thanks, it looks great.

I am still using several temp/hum sensor and they are running great :) I also have just added code and pictures for my newly build light sensor (using an LDR).