I notice that the kit from CNCrouterParts does appear to use the springy couplers: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EiOOrOfwKvw So, I guess it can't be bad, because they seem to make very nice kits.

@marcusakamg7 that's strange, I never ordered this board on OSHPark, I will check later.

@mpp said in MySensors 2.0.0 Released: pm open,type:2 0 This is a message emitted by the ESP8266 core, not MySensors related.

@mfalkvidd said in Best PC platform for running Esxi/Docker at home?: @NeverDie ...You can also use the command line tool fstrim to manually discard unused data. Looking into this, I think checking the "Discard" box on the "Hard Disk" tab of the "Create a Virtual Machine" dialog box inside ProxMox may automatically accomplish the same thing. Also the ProxMox dataset that the VM is saved on needs to be set to thin-client. So, those two things plus the ssd emulation that you mentioned, and of course automatic file compression like lz4 needs to be enabled. So, in total, four things need to be set correctly for it to work optimally. Originally I was concerned that because, if using ZFS as the file system, ProxMox only allows storing a VM as a pre-allocated "raw" file (rather than as a qcow2 file as ProxMox would if ProMox were using a linux ext16 file system instead of ZFS) that the file would take up enormous space even if the raw file (i.e. the VM's virtual disk) is mostly empty. So, I did the experiment, and it turns out that is true if the ProxMox dataset isn't configured as "thin-client" or if automatic file compression isn't turned on, but fortunately the true size of the raw file does indeed shrink down if those two conditions are enabled. So, having proved that to myself, I'll pass on the tip: I now create a VM's disk to be as large as I can imagine it would ever need to grow, and then I let the thin-client mechanism maintain the true size of the virtual disk to be only as large as what is actually necessary. This way I don't have to worry that I created too small a VM disk, or that the VM will later outgrow the disk size that was originally allocated for it.

@TimO Thank you very much for your help, now I succesfully connected my iboard card as LAN Gateway without doing any HW modification and even any software modification to any library, simply using the sketch you sent here. For general information to other people that want to use the iboard card with Domoticz, to avoid any problem like the following: 2016-12-18 12:06:40.840 MySensors: trying to connect to: 192.168.1.133:5603 2016-12-18 12:06:41.841 MySensors: connected to: 192.168.1.133:5603 2016-12-18 12:06:45.841 MySensors: Connection reset! 2016-12-18 12:06:45.842 TCP: Reconnecting in 30 seconds... Consider to use the Arduino IDE 1.6.8 to compile and upload the sketch, otherwise, with newest Arduino IDE you will get the error messages above. Thank you again for you help and a big hello to all the members of the forum. Regards

Very interesting information, thank you very much!

Everything's working like a charm now :grinning: , so thread is marked as [solved] now. One more big "Thank you" to everybody helping to get this finally done :confetti_ball: :clap: ! In addition a picture of my Node 2 - the one I did the most rework over time until now also showing the violet MCP2551 module mentionned above. [image: 1530172152975-mcp2551_node_a-resized.png]

Wooo, cool to see it live!

So it appears that the saga has been solved. The problem in fact WAS with the FTDI adapter. In all of the testing that I did I am guessing that the FTDI's receive data was working, but the transmit data was the issue. I put my spare FTDI on and Vera was detecting devices left and right. I think I am going to have to redo the inclusion because it said that there were 5 devices found, but nothing was added to Vera, but like I say, the devices did not appear to be presenting at the time. I want to say though that I appreciate all the time that people spent trying to help me get this going. This forum is a GREAT crowd of people.

@MiKa If you happen to have time, could you test the range with a stable 2.7V supply and a 1mF cap in parallel to the battery? I am really not happy with the HT7333 solution, since the shelf life of the keyfob will be limited and the quite expensive LIR2032 can easily be damaged by undervoltage. If the second test works, I could fit 4 220uF 6.3V tantalums next to the LED. Else I would give the step-up thing another go. There are low profile inductors, but I didn't find any for cheap (shipping) at Aliexpress.

@bilbolodz well, no it is 2mm pitch.

@lis610 I have found with a 499K resistor the range is reduced to about 1.2m in a ABS box. With a 1Mohm it was about 3m, I do not have many high value SMD resistors to experiment with but the lower the value the lower the range. [image: 1533564348058-img_4277x-resized.jpg] Just tried with a 333K and it operates about 0.8m in free air.

Hi all we are working on a new web client for our domotic framework. Here some screenshots [image: fd5.png?part=0.7&view=1&vt=ANaJVrEZGlBm56DRoEIytzEGrrMV0OXO3g99sjFBL8H9PoX9OP1OTIpbN6zJxtvaSCc8xSddjrnLNPl-4vH3bEz6B0Js-VZx4mOBPuaRJ3QoSLwA5EPYlPI] [image: fd_mobile2.png?part=0.2&view=1&vt=ANaJVrEUs3ydycP8me4baRK56FRppkkthGMq4FG-tycTWT93WKq3oF3GKzHbkDY7AIKFpBVoGa1Z6wt2JLMGtJrWqUA6QACZh3BXx8FwSJ5V9XeM3VoBYPg] [image: fd_4.png?part=0.6&view=1&vt=ANaJVrFb4sDmn_knAqbVFc0xgc6SRm_gsyHRpPctZ6-qqRla8sduX3DwO1qM98efhTFT_zAtfxnFL_nTJASRNbC_NpKMg0ayZoMkUq9nijhJ9vq56PECvLs] It's a WIP so we need any help to complete it. The code is available at https://github.com/freedomotic/fd-vue-webapp/

@neverdie said in Recommendation for PCB fab?: Anyone try this? Sounds like a promising alternative: https://hackaday.com/2018/09/18/get-your-pcbs-made-at-the-mall/ Good idea but it's not really solving much, it's keeping the most annoying parts: using chemicals (can't do it in an appartment building), making the vias by hand.

@toufou said: You use a motion sensor as i want. You make a reference to a hack to use it with 3.3V instead of 5V. Have you a link to see that? Yes, here's a picture (the only thing you have to do is solder vcc to the HIGH-pad of your motion sensor): [image: 1473068490039-123.png]

Just wondering if the gateway inclusion push-button needs an external pull-up resistor. I looked at the code (older code 1.3 something) and didn't see internal pull-ups enabled, yet in the instructions it does not mention to hook up an external pull-up resistor. Please advise...I have designed a gateway PCB with an external pull-up because I didn't see internal pull-ups enabled in the code.

Sorry to necro but, you may be interested to hear that someone published a solution to controlling Neato locally on GitHub. Unfortunately it requires a hardware modification in form of an ESP32 or similar board, but with it you should be able to use your Neato with Home Assistant, for example. I haven't yet tested this myself, but the solution looks worth a look and the instructions seem clear enough. https://github.com/Philip2809/neato-connected As I've received the dreaded shutdown email, I'll be looking into this once I have more time to tinker.

@hek seems 'snappier' on Android! :clap:

I have been researching controlling LEDs and this seems one of the better threads on MySensors with links to all the relevant related projects (this @maghac OP one for analog RGB, @LastSamurai RGBW alternative, @dmonty for digital, @ikkeT and others' improvements, and finally @Jim-de-Groot latest board; sorry if I left anyone out). Thanks to everyone for sharing your work! So I will ask here a variation of what I I asked @LastSamurai in his thread: Are all of you still using these MySensors based nodes? Because I initially started thinking to use a MySensors based solution because I thought Wi-Fi based ones (although arguably easier, cheaper) like MagicHome controllers would be "too slow" but @LastSamurai seemed to state that he changed from MySensors because it was "too slow" in responding. Or maybe the reasons are not speed / response time related? Maybe you guys didn't like that interface? Or maybe they were not as readily and cheaply available back when this post began (may 2017)? Or maybe people just like to tinker (I get it, some times I do too)? But right now I am thinking about ordering some of those MagicHome devices just to play around with, they are only few dollars each on AliExpress instead of dorking around ordering boards, figuring out correct mosfets to use, implementing software, etc... What am I missing here? I am not trying to be contrary! I honestly want to know! :D