@kimot I am not handling that situation. I'm taking for granted ssr will do his job. Maybe there's some ssr safety topic I'm unaware? Suggestions for a v3.0 are welcome.
About the temperature measuring... I use two sensors. The one in the board protects electronics from temperatures beyond design (60°C). It's near the ssr because the ssr's derating curve is the most limiting condition.
The control sensor is placed in the bottom of the heater. It connects to the board through a 3 pin header connector.
I recently build successfully a mysensor node based on an Arduino Uno, a Robolink IR sensor and a Robolink DHT11 sensor. The last two from an Elektor sensor kit ever bought for my son when he was still interested by electronics .
My controller is Home Assistant, so I did a merge of the given MySensors example sketch and the Home Assistant example sketch together with the DHT11 sketch.
The airco is a Samsung one, so in the sketch you will find these defines uncommented. Replace by your airco manufacturer.
People interested in building one, can find my sketch on https://github.com/ericvb/MySensorsArduinoSketches
@ToniA a big thanks for the work to decode all these IR sequences!
I like those relays. Is that 3 different switched outputs? One thing I always liked about european wall switches is that they give you more room for components. I would like to use a similar type of relay for my in-wall switches, but with the way US single gang wall boxes are, there is a pretty narrow space constraint. I might be able to fit it if I did away with the thermal fuse, but I don't want to give up tat bit of added safety just for that.
I think you can just set the I2C pins in MyBoardNRF5.h without remapping the pins in MyBoardNRF5.cpp.
Look in MyBoardNRF5.h, under the Wire Interfaces section. Set SDL and SCA to 30 and 31 as appropriate for your board.
Added sketch, which also supports an additional mini PIR sensor. It's what I needed, you can comment to #define out.
Also changed the regulator to a smaller one, which supplies up to 100 milli Amp, which is plenty enough. That way I can keep the circuit smaller on the PCB. Which allows me to create a smaller housing.
