Are you still able to use the same analog phone plugged into the back of your modem? If so then it has to still use the same protocol, and I don't understand why the analog beacon wouldn't still work. It would just have to be on that same wire, not on the internet side of the modem. The modem is doing all of the translation in that case. Or am I missing something? Did you have to get a new phone to use the new service?

Hi @adds666 I did in between the switch from 2.5.12 to 3.4.4 a change from pure textual configuration in 2.5.12 to a UI configuration in 3.4.4. This requires some homework. Can't remember beside the exchanged mysensors binding files anything else to upgrade to 4.0.4 from 3.4.4 and finally to current 4.1.1. Keep in mind, I use a OpenHAB manual installation on a non-Debian Linux system, not openHABian. This may have an influence, but I don't expect any hiccups. kerberos

@skywatch great, thanks a lot for your suggestion. A bit of research on the internet educated me about these diodes :D looks like they already exist on the board that carries the relay. However, i deeply thank you for the info. This forum and internet in general is such a powerful tool :+1: @ejlane your concern is fully justified :+1: i also come from an engineering background and i like to think "worse case scenario". The more one look the more one find that the very vast majority or microwave ovens work the same way : there are 3 industrial switches built in the door lock. 2 of them are cabled on the "power side", one is for signaling ("software side"). So we are pretty safe on that matter. But you are so right about safety. Magnetron do emitt dangerous waves and capacitors and stuff packed in the oven can be deadly because of high voltage. Thanks both for suggestions. I will come back with updated sketches and beg for advice once more ;)

@ben999 Check out Serial Protocol I have four Arduinos. Each has a different MY_NODE_IDs (I use 130, 131, 132, 133). Each has four sensors: moisture, humidity, temperature, and voltage each of which has a CHILD_ID: CHILD_ID_MOISTURE is 0 , CHILD_ID_HUMIDITY is 1, CHILD_ID_TEMPERATURE is 2, CHILD_ID_VOLTAGE is 3. When an Arduino makes a measurement, it sends that measurement to a unique MQTT topic. In the case of the Arduino with MY_NODE_ID of 130 that is sending the moisture measurement, that MQTT topic is mysensors_out/130/0/1/0/35 and the message is [something like] 760 (35 is the value type) Similarly, when a controller sends a command to a device (Arduino), the topic is unique. If you have two actuators with the same MY_NODE_ID and CHILD_ID (MQTT topic) there would be confusion as to what you want each actuator to do. Likewise, if two sensors had the same MQTT topic, how would the controller know how to handle the data.

@ben999 @NeverDie I had found a similar article about making the antenna a dipole. The interesting thing the article stressed was the lengths of the wires. I'm not an antenna engineer (my brother is) so I made the wires as suggested. I think it made a small improvement. and I still use that radio. My advice on antennas is: don't modify it. If your application needs more range, you're going to need more power. Signal strength drops off with the cube of the distance. So you're going to need a better antenna. For $3 (and a month or two delivery time) you can get a theoretically better module+antenna

@adamf663 sorry for delay! I am focusing on mostly software at the moment. So nothing to show so far ;) i'll be posting as soon as the project moves forward again :+1: please read on !!! @MasMat thanks a lot for your suggestions. As suggested first it is more than probably a case of rights/permissions. There are many ways to launch a script at startup but in my case some deamons were started via "root" and some others via "user". As stated before, all worked perfectly when logged under "user" (pi). So, to summarise: rc.local didn't work crontab didn't work .bashrc didn't work These might work in the end but i'm not brainy enought to get to it. Then came "systemctl" ! First create a .service file $ sudo nano /etc/systemd/system/doorbell.service [Unit] Description=My test service After=multi-user.target [Service] Type=simple Restart=always ExecStart=/usr/bin/python /home/pi/doorbell02.py [Install] WantedBy=multi-user.target #WantedBy=default.target -> test this if previous doesn't work Reload all daemons to check if your new .service file is ok Then allow your new service file to be loaded at boot Last, check if loading worked. If status returns "active" then it's a win :+1: $ sudo systemctl daemon-reload $ sudo systemctl --user enable doorbell.service $ sudo systemctl --user start doorbell.service $ systemctl --user is-active doorbell.service Last step: systemctl loads these services at loggin by default (as in : enter user and password). I need it to start automaticaly with no human input. systelctl offers a way to load services without loggin for a given user : $ loginctl user-status pi Check status with $ loginctl user-status pi If status returns "linger: yes" then it's (once again) a win :+1: Thanks again @MasMat for suggesting paths to investigate That's it for now, i'll be back on the hardware point of view next time !

@ben999 said in Raspberry as a node (bis): Does it stay local within the LAN (and gets directly to my gateway) or does it have to travel through internet up to openhab and down again to my gateway (remember, my bell has to ring) ? You run an MQTT broker ('server') somewhere in your local network (or even on your pi) that takes care of distributing the data. Not saying you need MQTT, only that it works marvellous for me. So last question just to be sure : it is not common practice to use RPi as a node ? And there is no "sketch" ready made that can be tweaked ? Not to my knowledge, but as all platforms supported by mysensors can be turned into nodes, this should also work for a pi.

@fotofieber DC+ one output is really poor and voltage has no impact on noise. I have tested with up to 6S LiPo and there's absolutely no gain as compared to 5V DC AC+ two outputs is a game changer! Much louder right from +/-5V and really a killer @ +/-12V. So that's it: the first iteration of this project will go for a step-up converter from 5V up to 12V for the piezo speaker. Thanks folks! EDIT: could someone suggest a MOSFET (or transistor) that could be used in lieu of the huge (and probably over-sized) TIP120 (that where there, waiting in the drawer :) ). Through-hole is my league. SMD is a bit of a struggle (welding, machining pcb, ...) Thanks again :smiley:

@ben999 Sorry for the delay. Work has been crazy lately. I see there are plenty of answers above and I echo them. I try not to upload with two power sources connected. If everything is 5v you are probably safe but I see you're using batteries and I'd not risk it just to be safe. I have used two power sources in the past but I have since changed my ways. I can't remember what stopped me but I believe I was getting strange results. I don't think I ever fried any hardware but why risk it...? :) If you are still having this issue have you tried with another Pro Mini and different code? Is anything coming out of the serial monitor or is it just blank?

@rejoe2 said in Servo, dallas and Nano...: use at least a capacitor as recommended in "Build". Forgot to mention that. I do use that capacitor as a standard. Thanks again

@ben999 I have a number of switches around my house that I designed myself. They don't have relay control. They just talk to the automation controller and act as basically a scene switch. If you are in the US, this may be an option for you. Here is the thread that talks about it. https://forum.mysensors.org/topic/4317/us-decora-style-wall-switch/34 The way I have mine set up, the switch talks to my Vera controller, and my Vera uses scenes to talk to another relay controller on the light/fan/device that I want to control. Many of the relay controllers that I have are Sonoffs. The response from switch to Vera to Sonoff is near instantaneous. The switches that I designed consist of 3 boards. The power supply board, the controller boardf (arduino pro mini + nRF24 radio) and the switch board. The switch boards that I designed is universal and can be made as a 4 button, 2 button or single button switch. I also have 3D designs for the switch plates that I made. These can be found on my thingiverse page. https://www.thingiverse.com/dbemowsk/designs.

@ben999 just for the record... =! is wrong. Should have been != Makes quite a difference :(

@Nca78 Great! Orders on the way then!!

@Newzwaver you can find the needed files here

As I mentioned in my previous post a few days ago, you will want a battery tender, and not just a charger. A battery tender will shut off if the battery is fully charged, whereas just using a battery charger could overcharge the battery.

@TimO Thanks a lot :) Having grown-up together with Windows got me used to reboot many time a day :laughing: I think i did reboot a few times last night but not sure about the timing though... might have done so for other reasons. I just gave up on discovery and went on with "manual mode" I will check tonight. Thanks @TimO for looking after us so well ;)

@TimO saving my evening once more ! I got so much inspiration from that link already... and tonight's solution was there all along!!! It is now working fine, with icon changing according to voltage changes !!! Thanks a lot Tim!!