Currently I'm using rechargeable AAA, which will be switched soon, as the sensor is working fine.
Why would you switch the batteries?
5.2V / 4 = 1,3V so still quite full.
These batteries are low-leakage batteries so provided the initial charge is fine and current consumption the lifespan should be good and at least 50% of that of good alkaline batteries
If the sensor and the gateway are at the same level or about the same level I think using a half-wave dipole or "rubber duck" antenna pointed vertically is a good idea.
That will focus the energy in the horizontal plane and not into the ground or to the air giving about 2 dBi of gain.
Although it should not be too difficult to make the MQTT Gateway with WiFi work on hardware and software level it is a bad idea on system level:
WiFi and MySensensor NRF24L01+ use the same 2.4 GHz band and with the antennas close a transmit from one will block the other and vice-versa.
@shabba You ask for the plane for the antenna but to for that it is handy to describe your house or setup, one or multiple floors, concrete walls etc?
The root cause of this issue was lack of state validation
in the key exchange protocol handler programmed in the Z-
Wave door lock firmware.
You should not typ "\n"!
It means that you should press enter on your keyboard.
On Linux I saw that I have to send "\r\n" instead of "\n".
"\r\n" (Carriage return, Line feed) is the Windows return, "\n" only the Linux return.
What kind of protocol is the 433 MHz RF running?
@tekka : Thanks, things work now fine! 
Did do some more experimenting using a sort of Ethernet gateway (actual the relayed Serial gateway data) and see that MYSController.exe can connect but once it prints the first data it gives the "File not open." error and no further data is printed.
So it does not look like a serial port issue but something else.
Did not know Lazarus but it looks pretty good!
I have AutoFW disabled.
The funny thing is that things do not work at all if I do not get the "File not open" error.
No, rebooting the gateway does not make the "Gateway startup complete" message re-appear.
Did watch the serial port using interceptty and see data is passed so it seems like Wine is not passing it.
Would be good to move the last five message into a separate thread...
Yes, signing, when properly done, is for sure a good begin.
How many bytes are you using for the truncated MAC and nonce?
The AES block size is 128 bytes, so 16 bytes so I do not see why that would not fit.
Encryption is already some kind of authentication is a sense that if you can successfully decode the message you can be sure that the other side knows the shared secret, just like in the cause of your SHA25-HMAC.
what benefit is there from encryption vs signing in the MySensors case?
If you have a lock or door sensor do you want others to know when it is opened or closed?
Signing is quite expensive if you look at additional payload size, you need a big counter to prevent replay and a big MAC to prevent attacks. I think that when encrypting things you can do it with the same additional payload and maybe even a less.
Doing OTA did work once but trying a second time did not work out yet.
I found that it is important the user that runs "wine MYSController.exe" must have access to the port ~/.wine/dosdevices/COMx links to:
$ ls -als /dev/serial/by-id/usb-FTDI_FT232R_USB_UART_*
0 lrwxrwxrwx 1 root root 13 25 jan 09:38 /dev/serial/by-id/usb-FTDI_FT232R_USB_UART_A9SZN99X-if00-port0 -> ../../ttyUSB0
Is not good ("root root"), I changed the link to to:
$ ls -asl /dev/ttyUSB0
0 crw-rw---- 1 root dialout 188, 0 25 jan 11:34 /dev/ttyUSB0
In the debug log I see the 0;0;3;0;14;Gateway startup complete. message but no messages from the sensor.
Looks like the "File not open." window I am getting and:
fixme:comm:set_queue_size insize 4096 outsize 0 unimplemented stub
I am seeing on the command line has something to do with it.
NB: Seems like the GUI is programmed using TK. How about compiling it for Linux?
@olaeke : Thanks!
So in total four devices meaning, the Node itself and a device for every (Child)-Sensor. Makes sense.
Just wondering what other Controllers are doing here. I think at least some completely ignore the child node numbering and either put all values without context or all values under the Node.
Suppose I have a Node with:
How is that displayed in Vera?
That chip is still only for authentication, only it's with aes-128 message auth instead of sha 256
If I have a look at the datasheet I see:
Opcode Name Description
0x06 Encrypt Encrypts 16 or 32 bytes of plaintext data provided by the Host.
0x07 Decrypt Decrypts 16 or 32 bytes of data provided by the Host after verifying the integrity MAC.
So it does encrypt/decrypt.
The CryptoCape board has both ATSHA204A and ATAES132 where the ATAES132 can "Encrypt up to a 32 byte packet at a time with AES-128-CCM"
Not sure if it is handy to have the integrity MAC combined as that does require 16 additional bytes, but that is the same story for SHA-256.
Did you have a look at the serial output of the Light Lux Sensor sketch on the Trinket?
mentioned on the api page to only use 0-254.
Yes I now see...
But that does not describe child-sensor-id = 255 
Seems like child-sensor-id = 255 is a special value as I see:
2015/01/24 19:04:18 [MySensors] < 1;255;0;0;17;1.4.1
2015/01/24 19:04:18 [MySensors] Node 1, sensor 255 is presenting itself as Arduino node device
2015/01/24 19:04:18 [MySensors] < 1;255;3;0;6;0
2015/01/24 19:04:18 [MySensors] Providing node 1.255 config: M
2015/01/24 19:04:18 [MySensors] > 1;255;3;0;1;M
2015/01/24 19:04:20 [MySensors] < 1;255;3;0;11;Light Lux Sensor
2015/01/24 19:04:20 [MySensors] No support for I_SKETCH_NAME Internal message yet.
2015/01/24 19:04:20 [MySensors] < 1;255;3;0;12;1.0
2015/01/24 19:04:20 [MySensors] No support for I_SKETCH_VERSION Internal message yet.
2015/01/24 19:04:20 [MySensors] < 1;0;0;0;16;1.4.1
2015/01/24 19:04:20 [MySensors] Node 1, sensor 0 is presenting itself as Light sensor
2015/01/24 19:04:20 [MySensors] < 1;0;1;0;23;21
2015/01/24 19:04:20 [MySensors] Set value '21' for node 1
Would be good to have this documented on http://www.mysensors.org/build/serial_api
From the same schematics I have of the same PB1 to PB5 mapping:
The pins not available for use on the trinket pro are chip pins PD2 (INTO) and PD7 (AIN1)
Above you mentioned D 2 and D 7 but indeed it looks like PD2 (INTO) and PD7 (AIN1) and these are also not connected on the Arduino Nano.
Did you have a look at the serial output of the sketch?
In my schematic of an Arduino Nano D7 is connected to pin 10 and http://www.mysensors.org/build/connect_radio is written with the Arduino Nano in mind:
<<C0 00
>>D0 00
is a MQTT hartbeat
The 0;0;3;0;9 are gateway log messages.
If the Trinklet has no D7 how did you connect the NRF24L01+ transceiver CSN/CS pin?
Hi @cleight
To help you further it would be good if you can post the errors you are getting and add a link to the Dallas temperature sensor you are trying to use.
My LightLuxSensor sketch has:
#define CHILD_ID_LIGHT 0
#define LIGHT_SENSOR_ANALOG_PIN 0
The CHILD_ID_LIGHT is used for gw.present(CHILD_ID_LIGHT, S_LIGHT_LEVEL); indicating that the node should request an address/use the address in EEPROM.
The LIGHT_SENSOR_ANALOG_PIN is used in the LightSensor but not in the LightLuxSensor so can be ignored.
First time I see a Trinket Pro 5V, but I see no reason things should not be working.
How about the radio, is that connected fine?
It's a crypto authentication device
As discussed in the security thread I think authentication alone can be useful but encryption is providing both security and a reasonable form of authentication so why not go for an encryption IC instead of the ATSHA204A.
Atmel has a nice IC doing AES:
http://www.atmel.com/devices/ATAES132.aspx
A bit larger (8 pins SOIC), but reasonable cheap € 0,782 (@10)
It is also part of CryptoCape, so there should be some software support for it.
I can not select the serial port yet, so could not test it further, likely have to do some mapping in wine.
Took some time to find out but after:
Adding a mapping from the Linux serial port to the Wine dosdevice configuration:
ln -s /dev/serial/by-id/usb-FTDI_FT232R_USB_UART_* ~/.wine/dosdevices/COM3
Adding to ~/.wine/system.reg:
[Hardware\\Devicemap\\Serialcomm] 1231984861
@=""
"Serial0"="COM1"
"Serial1"="COM2"
"Serial2"="COM3"
I could start MYSController.exe and select COM3 and get:
But after pressing OK things look to work however:
@tekka : Thanks!
@Zen : Agreed UPnP is overkill (but would be cool), your approach is much simpler and therefore better but what would be good is to standardize on something so Controller can add support for it.
here is the first alpha version of the MYSController
Saw it was a Windows executable but did give it a try on Linux:
wine MYSController.exe
And the GUI comes up nicely!
I can not select the serial port yet, so could not test it further, likely have to do some mapping in wine.
is there a nice way to add code? Do I really have to add 4 spaces before every line?
Yes, that is the way to format code.
But ... knowing some tools there is no need to do it by hand. In vi/vim:
:%s/^/ /Not replacing the battery is not possible, most normal batteries are empty after eight years also if you do not use them.
What is the brand of these door sensors? A photo can also help.
But unlikely you can use them out-of-the-box with MySensors...
Hi @rdevine,
1, 2, 3 look fine to me.\
On:
- The controller that will receive the information will be a Raspberry Pi 2.0 Model B 512MB.
- On the controller I am uncertain as to the software that will be placed on the controller.
There is some debat about terminology but I think most people on this forum agree that the controller is something like Vera, OpenHAB, DomotiGa, PiDome etc. For the whole list (answer to #5), see all entries under Select Controller. Many of these controllers can run on your Raspberry.
Between the controller and the sensors is the gateway, see under Select Gateway. Before you ask why the Raspberry can not be a gateway, see Port of MySensors Library 1.4 to Raspberry or do a search for Raspberry but for sure a Arduino gateway will be the simplest.
I am not sure if I can follow you.
Is there a way to enable the controller to be the one that searches for the sensors?
Why would you want to do that, sensors will have to report eventually their values to the gateway/controller, so I see no problem having them register with the gateway/controller.
This would allow for the sensor to be smaller by having the large antenna be placed on the controller.
A large antenna is most of the times a very directional antenna, is that what you mean?
Yes, looks really nice!
Seems to be written in TK so cross-platform, even better!
If you want something simple, see http://gizmosnack.blogspot.se/2014/11/power-plug-energy-meter-now-wireless.html.
I see in your code that before the battery level is sent the temperature is sent:
// Only send data if temperature has changed and no error
if (lastTemperature[i] != temperature && temperature != -127.00) {
// Send in the new temperature
gw.send(msg.setSensor(i).set(temperature,1));
}
Could it be that when measuring the battery voltage just after the temperature data has been sent the battery voltage is temporary lower?
A way to test that is to add a delay before sending the temperature.
Some questions:
The only thing I can guess is the Stepup module is emitting a frequency that the SR04 is picking up as the "echo" to the "ping" it sends out on trigger.
Can you post a photo of how your setup looks like?
If it is really interference shielding might help.
I agree with @griffinsaic, power is most likely your issue but another thing to check is interference, see the Issues with multiple gateways + choosing frequency / channel thread.
They never mention CRI so I figure that they'd have to be the worst of the bunch, no better than 65 or 70. But perhaps it doesn't matter for the purpose?
I think a good CRI is important for the kitchen, with a low CRI you have the chance that food does not look that attractive anymore. A low CRI most of the times translates in poor red colors but I think that is not soon a problem for the front of the house.
For much more background see A close look at the Color Rendering Index (CRI, or Ra).
In MQTT you can use wildcards so you can subscribe to everything published.
I am not familiar to myMQTT but I know mosquitto_sub and that can be quite handy for debugging.
Looking at http://www.instructables.com/id/PIR-Motion-Sensor-Tutorial/ I see the PIR has a BIS0001 IC on it and according to it's datasheet it has a supply voltage of 3 ~ 5 Volt.
You write you have the voltage regulator of the PIR removed, then it is luck it is working when powering it below 3 Volt
One other thing I see in the datasheet is:
Description | Range | Unit
Input voltage | Vss-0.3~ Vdd+0.3 | V
Could it be that if you supply power at a voltage over 2,98 volts you come outside this range?
It should be possible to connect sensors to the gateway and pass it to the controller but I have not seen anybody doing it so probably you will have to write/merge the code yourself.
Looking at the datasheet of the IRM-05-5 the Derating Curve shows that for 70 degrees the load drops to 0% so it looks like it has thermal protection.
For the size and cost I think you better chose an AC powered device.
Additional to the link posted by @m26872, @petewill just posted full instructions on how to build this on $8 Lamp (Outlet) "Smart Plug" Module
Do you suggest to use an optocoupler for safety?
I do not see why you would want to use and optocoupler unless some part of the circuit can be touched but like @ServiceXp asks, more crucial is how you are going to convert from 230V to 5V.
@klim : Nice idea and thanks for documenting it here!
Following @tbowmo I am wondering what is the effect of the stepup converter very close to the antenna; although the converter will work in the kHz range, it harmonics can be in the 2.4 GHz range and quite loud, so it could be that some channels are worse than others. Also the coil can induct currents in the traces of the NRF24L01 board.
I am not so worried about the metal of the battery, that will impact the antenna pattern and maybe the impedance but the overall energy transmitted will be largely the same.
But, that is all theory would be good to know if you see any drawback.
I do not see a capacitor on the NRF24L01 board between the 3.3V and GND. Looks like you have one on the board but I think you can improve things by adding a low-ESR capacitor on the NRF24L01 board see http://www.mysensors.org/build/connect_radio
Yes, very nice IC. From the datasheet:
Key Features:
There is also a variant that has 16 kB flash instead of OTP.
16 kB is not that much, would a simple MySensors sensor fit in that?
Looking at your log it looks like the node is requesting a Node ID from the gateway but the gateway is not providing it meaning the sensor will execute the normal code.
255;255;3;0;3;
See http://www.mysensors.org/build/serial_api, this is an internal message of the type I_ID_REQUEST.
The Node ID is normally provided by a controller.
On http://www.mysensors.org/build/relay you will find apart from the Relay also a RelayWithButtonActuator Example.
Do you have some kind of feedback from the relay indicating it's status? If so, connect that to the button input and done!
Bluetooth indeed hops around in the 2.4 GHz band split in 100 kHz bands but Bluetooth has an algorithm to stay out channel that are occupied. For that to work, Bluetooth has off coarse to see the other "user" and if the channel is not used that often that can take time or will not work.
But .. provided that Bluetooth stays out the band you are using for MySensors there is still a possible problem in that the nRF24L01+ (like almost all 2.4 receiving IC's) has a wide-band LNA followed by a mixer followed by filtering and more gain. The wide-band will see both the Bluetooth and the Signal Of Interest (SOI) and if the level of Bluetooth if much larger than the SOI things will also go wrong.
So if you have Bluetooth at 50 cm, it will probably come in around -30 dBm, the nRF24L01+ can receive signals up to -85/-94 dBm and this kind of level differences can give problems, see also Table 7 of the nRF24L01+ datasheet.
If you are really worried about things as inductance, reflections, capacitance and impedance why not provide the sensors a somewhat higher voltage and have the sensor a "big" capacitor and a voltage regulator bringing the voltage back to 5/3.3 Volts.
A search on the Internet gave me:
http://www.instructables.com/id/Adding-Custom-Graphics-to-EAGLE-PCB-Layouts/
Which browser do you use?
See http://www.mysensors.org/build/arduino:
Some browsers might need some extra care to get the plugin working.
I also read:
The code compiles on cloud server with all libraries installed and ready to use.
So did you get the code from http://www.mysensors.org/build/ethernet_gateway ?
send: 255-255-255-0 s=255,c=3,t=3,pt=0,l=0,st=fail:
Seems like your node is requesting a id from a controller, see for example http://forum.mysensors.org/topic/531/using-an-uno-for-sensor-with-negative-results
Main goal is speed and reliability.
Speed is no goal for me me using MySensors, I see one second reaction time as no problem.
Reliability is I think everybody cares about and for that it can be good to use/scan multiple frequencies as the 2.4 GHz band can be quite crowded.
I'll do more tests regarding distance and orientation between radios.
That would be good; if you come to some conclusions it would be great I you can share them.
what you think minimum distance should be?
Hard to say, I do not know what is the radiation pattern of the antennas and orientation can make a big difference.
The best thing you can do is either accept the reduced range or experiment moving the antennas out of each other and changing their orientation relative to each other.
Still a nice idea to make a full-duplex link. Do you have any special plans with it?
What if my neighbour also discovers this site and starts to build a network?
Like @tbowmo indicated you can select another channel.
If you are worried about your neighbor controlling your lamps or listening to your messages, have a look at http://forum.mysensors.org/topic/9/security
I am wondering if with a setup as you point out above you can really have full duplex in real life scenarios.
The two antennas are very close together and I think the isolation is less than 10 dB. The architecture of the receiver is that it has a wide-band LNA so suppose you are receiving a signal at -70 dBm and the other radio is transmitting at 0 dBm. With 10 dB antenna isolation that means it couples in at -10 dBm.
The -10 dBm (although on a other frequency) will clip the wide-band LNA so that you will no longer be able to decode the -70 dBm wanted signal anymore.
I can claim around 50% increase in transfer rate speeds and even better improvement in round-trip time between 2 nodes.
I am surprised... What kind of distance is there between the two nodes?
0.2 Watt per LED seems reasonable, so 60 Watt or 5A @ 12 V per strip.
If you want to have not too much voltage drop over the 20/8 feet you should use a cable that has low resistance, only 1 Ohm gives 5 Volts voltage drop...
Maybe better to run 110/230 Volts to the strip and have the power supply there.
How much current does these strips draw?
I read it is 12 Volts but what counts for wiring is the current...
I test standard module (PCB antenna ) and module with external antenna..
same result .. if use standard module then 30m is distance +- few meter .. with external antenna also same distance ..
30 meter is less than I would expect for two antennas seeing each other and enough clearance but to give some meaningful feedback a photo would help.
I solder big capacitor to mule 2200uF , 6.3V .. and power 3V for node and 3.3V for gateway ..
A big capacitor is not better, what counts is ESR (or the "Freq. measured" in the table) and the capacitor being big enough. The higher the frequency the better the capacitor can "reject" high frequency noise on the power supply.
Free space is a good start but like indicated there are still numerous gotchas:
What is the range you get?
Some photo would be nice.
I have been unassembling TV's when I was young and still have quite some high voltage capacitors from that
But looking at:
.22 uF = 220 nF = 220.000 pF seems not that easy to get.
Still, with a bit searching:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/0-22uf-220nf-275vac-X-type-capacitor-x-2-/300649967406
Guys, please have a look at http://forum.mysensors.org/topic/182/standard-versus-lna-pa-radio-modules
Ignoring antenna effects, if only one side has a ePA + LNA your link budget is only 2.6 dB better. In open air 6 dB means doubling the distance, in other environments you need often 10 dB extra to double distance.
Depending on what gateway you use, another solution could be to implement an MQTT client on Arduino, see http://knolleary.net/arduino-client-for-mqtt/
on e-shop write 1km ..
Can you provide the link?
but I have same distance like standard module with PCB antenna..
Like I wrote, I am not 100% surprised. What is the range you get?
Have also a look at http://forum.mysensors.org/topic/182/standard-versus-lna-pa-radio-modules
I have the module in use but did not directly compare the range with an normal module.
That is also almost impossible because the antennas are different and with things working on 2.4 GHz, moving an unit just 5 centimeter can make a huge difference.
but how can I send relay state after power on?
Power on of what?
If the node is powered on I assume the state is always the same probably off.
If the gateway is powered on while the node was already on I think there is currently no way for the gateway to request the state.
Still, if you want to know the state it makes sense to add a "sensor" that could also be used to see if maybe the power is lost.
I can nothing say about OpenHAB or PiDome but:
Started!
0;0;3;0;9;read: 0-0-0 s=0,c=0,t=0,pt=0,l=0:
0;0;3;0;9;version mismatch
0;0;3;0;9;read: 0-0-0 s=0,c=0,t=0,pt=0,l=0:
0;0;3;0;9;version mismatch
Does not look good, it seems an error from the gateway.
Good example you to work with 230 Volts relatively safe without too much effort!
No way to use the on board power for the Arduino?
Yes that should be possible but maybe less safe.
I think that:
That said I like the idea of MQTT-SN but for it a "transparent network" makes more sense.
@dzairo: Nice piece of work and looking at the schematics with enough attention to decoupling and powering the device!
power consumption is 7uA .
I assume that is sleep current. Do you know anything about the average consumption over say one hour?
but want support 4x button.. then need litle help how to use it ..
I think I can not directly help you with this but it would be good to know to which pins the buttons are connected, that is not readable from the schematics above.
I assume you have an antenna connected, right?
With an antenna[*] comes directivity so if things are not pointed correctly you can indeed get less range than using a normal board.
[*] Unless you use invented an isotropic radiator
yes the zwave chip and license and dev kits are expensive and proprietary...
Any idea what piece of the pricing is due to the zwave chip and license?
Is that in the order of 2, 5, 10 or 15 Euro/Dollar?
On implementing it using MySensors: As this is 230/110 Volts, I think a housing is essential. In that sense I think I would start buying a cheap energy/watt meter from Ebay, opening it and replace the electronics by your own electronics.
@Dan-S. What kind of walls/floors do you have?
Here in Holland, concrete is quite standard and concrete contains metal; I see that typically it is not possible to cross two walls/floors reliable with WiFi, so that should also count for MySensors. Range is best if antennas can "see" each other directly (through a door/stairwell).
Yes, a repeater can not sleep and can therefore not really be battery operated.
Can you run a cable from your basement to the middle floor?
Look at the fibaro wall plug
Thats exactly what i want aldo then for less money or a arduino based plug.
That is quite challenging goal!
If you do not mind the form size it should be possible and the component cost could be lower.
ZWave devices are quite expensive (is that the Zwave license?) but companies have the economies of scale so they can spread fixed cost over more units and get volume discount on components.
@diamantmatch Too bad this is not working.
The serial port did work for me some weeks back but I have been busy to transition to an Ethernet gateway (not done yet). Let me get the serial gateway back up and give it a try.
Which version of DomotiGa are you using?
First, how do I connect the serial gateway to the Pi? Usb to usb or usb to GPIO?
If you make the serial gateway using an Arduino Nano you can just connect the USB of the Nano to the USB of you Raspberry Pi; you should see it using lsusb as:
ID 0403:6001 Future Technology Devices International, Ltd FT232 USB-Serial (UART) IC
An it should enumerate as ttyUSB, but better try "ls /dev/serial/by-id/"
Second, do I need the OTA stuff to get it to work if I only want to collect some data? I dont see the point but I might have missed something.
No it is not needed. The OTA stuff is meant for Over-The-Air updates.
Yes, indeed interesting reading also in the light of controllers.
Nice, thanks, good to have to monitor in-house CO2 levels and global warming...
Quite an expensive sensor, what are your plans with it?
@humblehacker : Yes, I think I misunderstood your point.
The promise that embedded Linux/OpenWRT holds (e.g Linino, Yun etc...) is it doesnt require "porting" anything at all!
Let's see, based on what you wrote above ("I wonder how difficult it would be to integrate the MySensors library with the bridge Library?") it seems you are not completely sure.
The controller then needs to either host a heavy native application or it needs to connect to a web service.
Can a Raspberry Pi "host a heavy native application" in your mind?
I think a Raspberry Pi is great as controller and think Linino/Yun/OpenWRT would be too thin.
However, the major disadvantage to the hardware serial approach is it requires a separate controller like the Raspberry Pi to connect to the cloud. As cheap as the RPi is, it still seems like a suboptimal use of something with the capabilities of a full PC.
Many controllers can run on a PC.
For me the serial, Ethernet and MQTT gateway are simple and cheap enough not wanting it to port to some kind of other platform. Although porting is maybe simple it is additional effort that I think can be spent better.
As you can see i'm getting way more than 1 reading a second. I think this is happening because of the rounding up/down of the temperature readings.
Yes, clear, if you do not want this you need to change the if to something like:
if (abs(lastTemperature[i] - temperature) >= 0.5 && temperature != -127.00) {So, now I replay with 255:255:3;0;4;1 instead of 255;255;3;0;4;0 and when I get the request 1;10;2;0;3;1.4.1
Yes I think node-id 0 should not be used.
Is it necessary to use solar power? A couple of standard AA batteries, is probably good for 2000mAh, and with a consumption of below 50uA, you got battery power for 4-5 years..
Sounds great, 4-5 years without changing batteries but will that be real? The bad thing is that if true it take 4-5 years to prove it.
Also the sun doesn't shine inside my house
But a solar cell does not need solar to generate (some) current unless your house is completely dark
But yes, if it is only 2-3 year going with rechargeable batteries is overkill.
So this tells me, that if you only have "1-way send" battery nodes in the mesh eg. temp sensors, then the "intelligent" mesh works fine, but as soon as you introduce main powered "recieve" nodes to the setup, it starts to fail (big time!).
Good observation but what is the difference between the "1-way send" battery nodes and the main powered "receive" nodes? Is it that the main powered nodes do send more often messages and therefore the network gets flooded?
I am not sure how this is related to "i decided to reset all the nodes. Starting with the temp nodes and the relay at the end."
On:
The only problem now is that i'm getting flooded with temp readings! Anyone know of a simple solution to only have reading every 1 min without killing the radio?
In there sketch there is:
// Fetch and round temperature to one decimal
float temperature = static_cast<float>(static_cast<int>((gw.getConfig().isMetric?sensors.getTempCByIndex(i):sensors.getTempFByIndex(i)) * 10.)) / 10.;
// Only send data if temperature has changed and no error
if (lastTemperature[i] != temperature && temperature != -127.00) {
// Send in the new temperature
gw.send(msg.setSensor(i).set(temperature,1));
lastTemperature[i]=temperature;
}
Right?
Is the temperature changing every minute??
@tbowmo Very nice design!
Personally I would make something similar but with the option to charge things using an external solar cell or just a charger. With the new generation of low-leakage NiMH rechargeable batteries I am very tempted using these to power the sensor.
@dopustko
arduino works at 1MHZ directly connected to batteries, DHT22 is connected to step up regulator which is switched on only when measure is taken.
Nice arrangement
I have been thinking to do something like it but did not come to it yet.
One question: What kind of step up convertor do you use and how do you switch it?
@rafael.brasilia: Did you try powering the clones using an external power supply connected to Vin.
That solved some problems I had getting an Ethernet gateway up-and-running.
what is s=255 , or c=3 , pt=0 , l=0 ... where I can finid more information about this ?
AFAIK this is not documented somewhere .. apart from the source files.
in original serial communication example is 6 value in string : 12;6;0;0;3;1.4\n
But I received only 5 ...
The 6th "value" is the payload, see Message Structure Elements at http://www.mysensors.org/build/serial_api, just like "Gateway startup complete." is the payload for the "0;0;3;0;14;Gateway startup complete. " message.
node-id;child-sensor-id = 255;255 means something like broadcast. It is for example used for nodes that do not have an address yet.
Lines starting with "read: " are strictly no protocol messages, they are debug output of the gateway.
On:
Where I can find more information about serial protocol ... what does mean data from gateway?
Have a look at http://www.mysensors.org/build/serial_api
Where I can find more information about protocol .. if want make own code for sensor .. but not in arduino platform .. but for AVR Studio (GCC .. WinAVR) ..
You can download and probably did download the source code from github so why don't you try to get that working on the AVR Studio?
Right now, board dimensions with Si7021, 328p, spi flash, no stepup, is down to 15x21mm (smaller than the radio module).
Nice, that sounds really like a minimal module!
Looks like you are looking for something like the MySensors cloud service, see http://www.mysensors.org/build/raspberry but I guess that will not happen soon.
Not sure if there is a way to do something like SSL, but if so you could use the Ethernet gateway and connect to some kind of "closest server".