Posts made by RJ_Make

@GertSanders Thanks, It would be used for remote temp. sensing in a Ref/freezer/aquarium.. etc.

Is it possible to add an ds18b20 to the Sensebender?

The battery life on the SB is VERY good.

Late to the party...., but I absolutely love Fluke. I have several and they are build very well.

@petewill Seems to be working this morning..

I get away with a lot of stuff, but there is no way my wife would let me do this.. Why did you turn off the YT comments?

Looks Good!

Here is an interesting article http://www.vptpower.com/wp-content/uploads/downloads/2012/01/info_inrushCurrent.pdf on the subject. Looks like there is a LOT more to it (not that I thought there wasn't) than my over simplified post above.

@m26872 I'm no expert either. We may be saying the same thing however... I don't think it matters (AC or DC), if there is a transformer in the circuit, there is going to be a current peak on startup. If you have a filter cap before your transformer, you will see 2 peaks. The first one will be caused by the capacitor charging up, and the second from the inductive load caused by the transformer powering up. I'm thinking the 2nd peak should be much less due to the filter cap.

Of course I could be all wrong.

This in-rush 'effect' can be seen on any induction load.

@blacey How is the project progressing? I can't wait to get my hands on this. (even though HomeSeer may not be able to incorporate it yet )

This is very nice!

@korttoma Thanks for the heads up on Unionup.

@korttoma Say what...? You measure .4 ohms on your Varistor? I think you found your problem.

I have only ever used Varistor protection on the primary side, so I've got no experience with low voltage Varistors, but I don't think it should ever read .4.. Should be infinite.

@hek whats up with that NORDIC board?

I think a vibration sensor may work better in this case, and there are examples.

@tbowmo Oh now that is sexy.. From someone with back problems, you take it easy for the next 3 days Sir!!

@tbowmo Sounds Good, Thanks for the update.

@tbowmo How is the testing going?

@bp_968 Just my opinion, but you really need to re-consider building your own security system. If you are truly trying to "protect" your property, you should think about using professional equipment. From my understanding DSC security systems are very reliable and affordable.

@tbowmo Now that's what I'm talking about.. Those holes look so sexy.... wait, that doesn't sound right.... :bowtie:

@Anticimex Nice Board, You have really out done yourself!

@Yveaux Wow, that is some great hacking! Well Done!!

@Ashley-Savage Nice Job... Where are the mounting holes for the base?

Here Here !!

@Sparkman Thanks for the follow up.

@tbowmo No mounting holes?

@Sparkman
I wounder if that is being caused by the loading of the battery and the moment the battery info is being calculated......

@rvendrame Hard to say then, but I'd bet an ice cream sandwich that something went to ground/neutral. It's the high voltage side that is blown out of that rectifier.. You may never know what the cause was.

@rvendrame Whatever happened (looks like something went to ground; were you probing with a scope?), that MB6S was the source, because that rectifier is blow out.

I don't think you will be able to buff that one out...

It's a strange problem. In most of my "projects" I power the relays directly from the power supply, home built or mfg and other than adding some capacitors have not seen these problems. Now I aways use Opto-controled relays so I don't have to use any diodes...

@hek That is awesome!

Yeeeeeee Haaaaaaaw :bowtie:

No pictures,......... it didn't happen...

Overall that looks like a pretty good AC/DC trans. The isolation boundary looks massive.

@Anticimex Congratulations!!!!

That right there is a work of art!

@petewill You may have mentioned it, but what is the interconnect voltage ?

@NeverDie said:

FWIW, a number of smoke alarm vendors offer a relay that can offer up a contact closure/opening when the alarm circuit goes off. e.g. http://www.brkelectronics.com/product/RM4

Well there's no fun in that... also I don't think they can distinguish between fire and CO...

@n3ro Are you using an interrupt to wake everything up?

@kalle Nice.. What are you using for the battery contacts?

@hek Potato cannons are tons of fun..

Added a Motion Sensor Top

@mvader Around $1.75 in filament for 1 top and body.

@mvader Cost In terms of what?

Printer cost, Electricity, Time, Filament??

@epierre Pretty Cool..

V2. Case is smaller, and lighter (much thinner walls) and includes mounting tabs (instead of the rear mounting holes). I also added some side ventilation holes.

@Didi Would you mind pushing one to 1 amp for a while., and then 1.5 if possible. Just want to make sure the OCP activates before it goes up in smoke..

@ServiceXp

Testing as in:

Ripple / Noise (if you don't have a scope just make sure the sensor does lock up on long run times at max load.)
Measure the heat it generates during full load (find something that can draw 1 amp).
Check to see if you can even fit it and the other components inside of a box that already has wire/switch run to it.

Personally, I would want to crack one of these open and see how it was designed. Making sure it's Ok, the specs look good on it, but you never know....

If the testing looks good, I would not have a problem using it (I would try and keep it in it's case if at all possible, or have one made that will house everything). I do think you are going to need a pretty deep box to fit it all.

We really need a MySensors Micro solution here, but then there is the liability.....

@n3ro No pictures, it didn't happen..

@Moshe-Livne said:

@tbowmo @petewill @didi @ServiceXp I think I found the perfect one!!!!
http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10001_10001_2155823_-1
http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/260/GS05U-USB-spec-33533.pdf

it is made by meanwell, so not flimsy. has all protections. 8$ at jameco and mouser and I am sure my meanwell supplier on aliexpress can get it for me at half price... it is a shame that they do not sell the inside separately but nothing is perfect.
the only problem might be breaking it apart. Meanwell really make sturdy enclosures.
let me know what you think...

I think that one would be a good candidate for some testing.

@soward Do they make chargers that can handle the water level?

@tbowmo Was the door on the left added after the building was built? Little strange for the garage door to "block" the smaller door..

@bjornhallberg said:

So, my reflow build is coming along ... slowly. Looking into plotting curves on a larger LCD, like the Zallus oven and using a small servo or stepper motor to open the door.

One thing that is bugging me though is the reflect-a-gold tape. Costs a fortune and I can't even seem to find any or even an equivalent product in Sweden. What do you guys think about the Ebay / Ali knockoffs? Are they good enough? I mean I don't care if they fall short a few percent in heat reflection, I'm not building a spaceship here, as long as the adhesive holds up.

Not sure, but I think maybe the more important characteristic is it's "Sticky Power" You don't want the tape coming loose..

@petewill said:

@ServiceXp Thanks! I wonder if I can steal one of those from an existing device. Any idea what those would be used on?

(OTP, OVP, SCP)

Also, is that Over Temp Protection, Over Voltage Protection and Short Circuit Protection??

These say they are certified and have temp, voltage and short circuit protection. Think it can be trusted?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/351418782712?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Yes that is correct, and I don't think the HLK-OM01 has OTP, so for me, it's out. You looking for a 1 off transformer, or do you have some projects in mind?

@blacey Looking good!

@Sparkman Well Done!!

My only recommendation; (if you are going to put this in side a utility box, in the wall) might want to find a solution that has the 3 standard safety features. (OTP, OVP, SCP)

These work well, but you need to follow the data-sheet for noise and ripple control.

@hek Ugly???? That right there is a thing of beauty in my world...

@Porky6666

Here ya go..

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:891486

@DrJeff 3.25 Hours I believe.

@hek Interesting.. I didn't know this.. I used the standard Pro Mini 3v3 and it worked...????

@tbowmo

Missed one part of your question. The reason I went with the backside; I wanted a "slide in" design for the battery holder.

I'm not talented enough to create a solution that allowed that with the SBM (Sensebender Micro) on the bottom. :bowtie:

1. The radio is from the original sensor (just transfered it to the Sensebender Micro.)
2. There are small ridges, one on each side, that stop the battery housing. (can be seen in the first picture of the case)
3. There are some vents in the bottom of the case, but wasn't sure if it would work. (can be seen in the first picture of the case on the bottom)
4. It's a Flashforge Creator Pro.

I've change the top; got rid of the screw holes, and went with a top that has longer side walls to create a friction fit.

@tbowmo Mounting holes would be very good.

It's by far complete, but here is the first revision. There are few design errors, but the overall main case works.

Sorry about the terrible pictures..

I'm in for at LEAST 1, but most likely ... MORE...

@blacey Really lovin this.. You plan to sell?

@Moshe-Livne Will that work @ ~10mA when transmitting?

@tbowmo I wanna say Thank You again. I really love how small this sensor is. You did a great job!!!!

@Moshe-Livne said:

@ServiceXp I was thinking of having the logic in the arduino. should be simple, no? current drawn - in cycle. no current for 5 min - cycle ended. what am i missing?

I think it depends on your washers efficiency and the cycles you use. My washer is one of those HE machines that using adaptive cycle routines with-in the select load type. Creates a wattage watching nightmare. Couple that with Vera's instability, I just gave up and took a more direct approach.

@Moshe-Livne I tried a bunch of "wattage watching solutions" and non of them worked very well, but that was also using Vera as my controller (now using HomeSeer). We use 4 different cycles which may have caused some of those problems we encountered also.

@gigaguy I don't think you will be able to run simultaneously.

@scalz Sorry, No I was referring to the OP.

@gigaguy Here is one of my projects, it may give you are start.

http://forum.mysensors.org/topic/573/refrigeration-datta-logger-a-non-mysensors-project

@mathias I use both, depending on the application. Example: If I'm powering from mains to 5v, I'll use the 3v3 version so I can power the radio off of vcc.

@Andreas-Maurer Thats Great. You may want to change the title to reflect that.

@tbowmo For me, 4 bucks is NOT worth it.

@Moshe-Livne Not very pretty or efficient, but works perfectly.

http://forum.mysensors.org/topic/1530/mysensoring-a-ge-washer

http://forum.mysensors.org/topic/1529/mysensoring-a-ge-electric-clothes-dryer

@scalz
May I make a suggestion? I would look for a solution for both 230v AND 120v for us yanks.. I know I would make the purchase.

@tbowmo It's really going to depend on the price. It would have to be a significant savings to drop the Si7021 and Flash for me.

@gigaguy Looks like it's Zigbee based. Not sure how you would "tap" into it's signal though...

Received mine yesterday.

@hek More like a busy week..

@miremi I think @stephenmhall is right on the money.

Get rid of the sleep function all together, and run "full tilt boggy" to see what happens (don't try activating any of the relays).

Did I miss the gas code??

If PIR, and Distance works, then add in a interval to slow things down.

Nice Indeed!, too bad I left Vera.. .. Well Not really..

This is another very simple "Wash Cycle Completed" sensor. It's design uses the same Optocoupler sensing design I used in the Kiddie Smoke Detector project. The only difference is that I'm using 1 AC to DC transformer, and a boost module to boost the washer speaker power to fire the Optocoupler.

Parts:

1. 1 Cheap AC/DC converter
2. 1 Optocoupler
3. 1 Step up Regulator
4. 1 Small Proto Board.
5. Some wire

Highlights:
Use the Washers .5vdc Signal Piezo to interface with the Pro-Mini. The voltage to the Piezo is to low to drive the Optocoupler so I had to use a boost module to boost the voltage to the Optocoupler. I'm not sure what the long term effect will be on washers control board Piezo drive circuit, so I will follow up if I encounter a problem.

Again Uses the same sketch as the Kiddie Smoke Project, with the only change being to CYCLE_INTERVAL (For my dryer 3 works well)

Sketch:

// Based on Author: Patrick 'Anticimex' Fallberg Interrupt driven binary switch example with dual interrupts

#include <MySensor.h>
#include <SPI.h>

#define SKETCH_NAME "Washer End Cycle"
#define SKETCH_MAJOR_VER "1"
#define SKETCH_MINOR_VER "1"

#define CHILD_ID 3

#define SIREN_SENSE_PIN 3   // Arduino Digital I/O pin for optocoupler for siren

unsigned int SLEEP_TIME			= 32400; // Sleep time between reads (in seconds) 32400 = 9hrs?
long CYCLE_COUNTER					= 3;  // This is the number of times we want the Audio Counter to reach before triggering a signal to controller.
unsigned long CYCLE_INTERVAL		= 3; // How long do we want to watch once first detected (in seconds) 
											//Adjust for your smoke detector, you want to pick up the siren signal at least 3 time to help stop false alarms. 
unsigned long CYCLE_RATE			= 90; // How fast do we want to move checking the Pin state in the Status Check (in Millis) Adjust for your smoke detector
											//Adjust for your smoke detector, you want to pick up the siren signal at least 3 time to help stop false alarms.
unsigned long CYCLE_TIME_OKSTATUS	= 8; // How long do we want to watch for "all clear" once we have confirmed an Alarm (in seconds)
unsigned long CYCLE_RATE_OKSTATUS	= 500; // How fast do we want to move checking the Pin state when checking for an OK status (in Millis)

int oldValue=1;
int value=0;


MySensor sensor_node;
MyMessage msg(CHILD_ID, V_TRIPPED);

void setup()  
{  
	sensor_node.begin();
	// Setup the Siren Pin HIGH
	pinMode(SIREN_SENSE_PIN, INPUT_PULLUP);
	// Send the sketch version information to the gateway and Controller
	sensor_node.sendSketchInfo(SKETCH_NAME, SKETCH_MAJOR_VER"."SKETCH_MINOR_VER);
	sensor_node.present(CHILD_ID, S_SMOKE); 
	//Send the state -- Always send Alarm state on power up.
	sensor_node.send(msg.setSensor(CHILD_ID).set("1"), true);
	
}

// Loop will iterate on changes on the BUTTON_PINs
void loop() 
{
	// Check to see if we have a alarm. I always want to check even if we are coming out of sleep for heartbeat.
	AlarmStatus();
	// Sleep until we get a audio power hit on the optocoupler or 9hrs
	sensor_node.sleep(SIREN_SENSE_PIN-2,FALLING, SLEEP_TIME * 1000UL);
	
} 

void AlarmStatus()
{
	
// We will check the status now, this could be called by an interrupt or heartbeat
int siren_audio_count	=0;
long cycle_time			=0; 	
unsigned long startedAt = millis();

	Serial.println("Status Check");
	//Read the Pin
	value = digitalRead(SIREN_SENSE_PIN);
    // If Pin return a 0 (LOW), then we have a Alarm Condition
	if (value != 1) {
		 //We are only going to check for status for CYCLE_INTERVAL time I think this should help stabilize Siren Sensing
		  while(millis() - startedAt < CYCLE_INTERVAL * 1000)
		  {
			  //We are going to check CYCLE_RATE fast
			  if(millis() - cycle_time > CYCLE_RATE ) {
				  // save the last time you Checked
				  cycle_time = millis();
				    //We will count each time SIREN_SENSE_PIN is 0 (Alarm - LOW) for the above time and at the above rate.
					value = digitalRead(SIREN_SENSE_PIN);  
						if (value != 1)
						{
							siren_audio_count++;
							Serial.print("Audio Count: ");
							Serial.println(siren_audio_count);
						} 
			  }
		  }
				// Eval siren audio hit count against our limit. If we are => then CYCLE_COUNTER then lets start a loop for "All Clear" reset
				// If we continue to return an audio power hit, then we will continue to send to the controller. 
				if (siren_audio_count>=CYCLE_COUNTER)
				{
					Serial.println("Alarm Detected");
					
					do 
					{
					  //update gateway with bad news.
					  //sensor_node.send(msg.set("1"));
					  sensor_node.send(msg.setSensor(CHILD_ID).set("1"), true);
					  Serial.println("Alarm Detected Sent to gateway");
					} while (IsAlarmAllClear()!=1);
				
				}
	}
	//Pin returned a 1 (High) so there is no alarm. 
	else
	{
	  IsAlarmAllClear();
	}
}

int IsAlarmAllClear()
// We are looking for an gap in time that we no longer see an audio power hit to the optocoupler. 

{
 int alarmOn				=0;
 long cycle_time			=0;
 unsigned long startedAt	= millis();

	//We are only going to check for status for CYCLE_TIME_OKSTATUS time	
	while(millis() - startedAt < CYCLE_TIME_OKSTATUS * 1000)
	{
		//We are going to check CYCLE_RATE_OKSTATUS fast
		if(millis() - cycle_time > CYCLE_RATE_OKSTATUS) {
			// save the last time you Checked
			cycle_time = millis();
			int value = digitalRead(SIREN_SENSE_PIN);
			if (value != 1) //We are still in an alarm state
			{
				alarmOn++;
			}
		}
	}
			if (alarmOn < 1)
			{
				// We don't have any sign that we are still in an alarm status
				//Send all clear msg to controller
				//sensor_node.send(msg.set("0"));
				sensor_node.send(msg.setSensor(CHILD_ID).set("0"), true);
				// Used to update the node - NOT used for battery check.
				sensor_node.sendBatteryLevel(random(1, 100) );
				Serial.println("All Clear");
				return 1;
			} 
			else
			{
				// We are still in an alarm status
				//The calling function will handle sending NOT CLEAR to controller				
				Serial.println("NOT CLEAR");
				return 0;
			} 	 

}

Here a some Pictures:

GE Electric Dryer M# GTX18ESSJ0WW

This is a very simple "Dry Cycle Completed" sensor. It's designed uses the same Optocoupler sensing design I used in the Kiddie Smoke Detector project. The only difference is that I'm using 2 AC to DC transformers. One to power the the Pro Mini, and the other to sense cycle completion.

Parts:

1. Some wire
2. 2 Cheap AC/DC converters
3. 1 Optocoupler
4. 1 Resistor 4.7K
5. 1 Step Down Regulator (for the radio)
6. 1 Small Proto Board.

Highlights:

1. Use the Dryer 120v Signal buzzer to interface with the Pro-Mini. Simply power the 2nd (sense) AC to DC transformer with the signal buzzer, and use the 5vdc output to activate the optocoupler. (I'm sure you can probably just read the raw 5vdc, but I have 60 of these opto's so I wanted to use one.. )
2. Uses the same sketch as the Kiddie Smoke Project, with the only change being to CYCLE_INTERVAL (For my dryer 3 works well)

Sketch:

// Based on Author: Patrick 'Anticimex' Fallberg Interrupt driven binary switch example with dual interrupts

#include <MySensor.h>
#include <SPI.h>

#define SKETCH_NAME "Dryer End Cycle"
#define SKETCH_MAJOR_VER "1"
#define SKETCH_MINOR_VER "1"

#define CHILD_ID 3

#define SIREN_SENSE_PIN 3   // Arduino Digital I/O pin for optocoupler for siren

unsigned int SLEEP_TIME			= 32400; // Sleep time between reads (in seconds) 32400 = 9hrs?
long CYCLE_COUNTER					= 3;  // This is the number of times we want the Audio Counter to reach before triggering a signal to controller.
unsigned long CYCLE_INTERVAL		= 3; // How long do we want to watch once first detected (in seconds) 
											//Adjust for your smoke detector, you want to pick up the siren signal at least 3 time to help stop false alarms. 
unsigned long CYCLE_RATE			= 90; // How fast do we want to move checking the Pin state in the Status Check (in Millis) Adjust for your smoke detector
											//Adjust for your smoke detector, you want to pick up the siren signal at least 3 time to help stop false alarms.
unsigned long CYCLE_TIME_OKSTATUS	= 8; // How long do we want to watch for "all clear" once we have confirmed an Alarm (in seconds)
unsigned long CYCLE_RATE_OKSTATUS	= 500; // How fast do we want to move checking the Pin state when checking for an OK status (in Millis)

int oldValue=1;
int value=0;


MySensor sensor_node;
MyMessage msg(CHILD_ID, V_TRIPPED);

void setup()  
{  
	sensor_node.begin();
	// Setup the Siren Pin HIGH
	pinMode(SIREN_SENSE_PIN, INPUT_PULLUP);
	// Send the sketch version information to the gateway and Controller
	sensor_node.sendSketchInfo(SKETCH_NAME, SKETCH_MAJOR_VER"."SKETCH_MINOR_VER);
	sensor_node.present(CHILD_ID, S_SMOKE); 
	//Send the state -- Always send Alarm state on power up.
	sensor_node.send(msg.setSensor(CHILD_ID).set("1"), true);
	
}

// Loop will iterate on changes on the BUTTON_PINs
void loop() 
{
	// Check to see if we have a alarm. I always want to check even if we are coming out of sleep for heartbeat.
	AlarmStatus();
	// Sleep until we get a audio power hit on the optocoupler or 9hrs
	sensor_node.sleep(SIREN_SENSE_PIN-2,FALLING, SLEEP_TIME * 1000UL);
	
} 

void AlarmStatus()
{
	
// We will check the status now, this could be called by an interrupt or heartbeat
int siren_audio_count	=0;
long cycle_time			=0; 	
unsigned long startedAt = millis();

	Serial.println("Status Check");
	//Read the Pin
	value = digitalRead(SIREN_SENSE_PIN);
    // If Pin return a 0 (LOW), then we have a Alarm Condition
	if (value != 1) {
		 //We are only going to check for status for CYCLE_INTERVAL time I think this should help stabilize Siren Sensing
		  while(millis() - startedAt < CYCLE_INTERVAL * 1000)
		  {
			  //We are going to check CYCLE_RATE fast
			  if(millis() - cycle_time > CYCLE_RATE ) {
				  // save the last time you Checked
				  cycle_time = millis();
				    //We will count each time SIREN_SENSE_PIN is 0 (Alarm - LOW) for the above time and at the above rate.
					value = digitalRead(SIREN_SENSE_PIN);  
						if (value != 1)
						{
							siren_audio_count++;
							Serial.print("Audio Count: ");
							Serial.println(siren_audio_count);
						} 
			  }
		  }
				// Eval siren audio hit count against our limit. If we are => then CYCLE_COUNTER then lets start a loop for "All Clear" reset
				// If we continue to return an audio power hit, then we will continue to send to the controller. 
				if (siren_audio_count>=CYCLE_COUNTER)
				{
					Serial.println("Alarm Detected");
					
					do 
					{
					  //update gateway with bad news.
					  //sensor_node.send(msg.set("1"));
					  sensor_node.send(msg.setSensor(CHILD_ID).set("1"), true);
					  Serial.println("Alarm Detected Sent to gateway");
					} while (IsAlarmAllClear()!=1);
				
				}
	}
	//Pin returned a 1 (High) so there is no alarm. 
	else
	{
	  IsAlarmAllClear();
	}
}

int IsAlarmAllClear()
// We are looking for an gap in time that we no longer see an audio power hit to the optocoupler. 

{
 int alarmOn				=0;
 long cycle_time			=0;
 unsigned long startedAt	= millis();

	//We are only going to check for status for CYCLE_TIME_OKSTATUS time	
	while(millis() - startedAt < CYCLE_TIME_OKSTATUS * 1000)
	{
		//We are going to check CYCLE_RATE_OKSTATUS fast
		if(millis() - cycle_time > CYCLE_RATE_OKSTATUS) {
			// save the last time you Checked
			cycle_time = millis();
			int value = digitalRead(SIREN_SENSE_PIN);
			if (value != 1) //We are still in an alarm state
			{
				alarmOn++;
			}
		}
	}
			if (alarmOn < 1)
			{
				// We don't have any sign that we are still in an alarm status
				//Send all clear msg to controller
				//sensor_node.send(msg.set("0"));
				sensor_node.send(msg.setSensor(CHILD_ID).set("0"), true);
				// Used to update the node - NOT used for battery check.
				sensor_node.sendBatteryLevel(random(1, 100) );
				Serial.println("All Clear");
				return 1;
			} 
			else
			{
				// We are still in an alarm status
				//The calling function will handle sending NOT CLEAR to controller				
				Serial.println("NOT CLEAR");
				return 0;
			} 	 

}

Here are a few, pretty bad pictures:

Still waiting here on the East Coast...

Great Work Guys!!

@Dirk_H Oh I believe the problem exists, I'm just wondering why I've not seen it yet....

Notification for my 5... Yeaaaaa Haaaaaaw..

@Stric That is strange, I've never seen this problem, and I have more 3v3 sensors then 5v... Hmmmmmm

@n3ro

I didn't do the testing, I just thought I remembered reading some information from someone who did. I can't find it though, so it may have been my imagination...

@DrJeff Sorry about the delay.. Looks like you figured it out...

You really don't need to build anymore if you are using those detectors through out the house (and they are setup interlocked), as once one goes off, they all go off and will signal to your controller that there is trouble.

@DrJeff

Oh and no, I don't have the skill set to sniff those signals.. :bowtie:

@DrJeff

1. The battery warning is local only, I didn't want to build in a battery circuit as that would reduce battery life.
2. I have a 47uf cap on my radio and seems to work well.

@DrJeff

1. 4v8 into RAW
2. 3v3 pin to radio
3. all LED's removed
4. Regulator remains to power radio

I have not changed the batteries since I posted, and the heart beat is still sending every 9 hrs

@BulldogLowell

Wow, just wow man.... that is a thing of beauty!!