Topics created by RJ_Make

Ok, now with connected batteries without any soldering

why not connect the buzzer signal direct to arduino analog read? optocoupter for a 80cents arduino?

@hleidecker Thank you VERY much for your plug in. I tried posting some questions to problems that I'm having but they must be moderated first... If you have a chance: How do I display battery levels? The "Light indicators" don't work with a status change (Light is always off)

@ServiceXp said: @marceltrapman FABtotum**(s)** as in more then 1? Nice... That is exactly it Right now it is 1. #2 is waiting for 50 units before me.

Hello, If I want to use this code on Arduino Mega2560 with support of 4 smoke sensors only thing I need to do is to create "arrays" ? Regards, Maciek

Yeah! I'll order one for myself.. So basically only one more needed!

@hek I'll take your advice and create and use a light child. Thanks

I have a question. On the convection fan motor is the fan (pictured) for convection or is there another fan inclosed and the one pictured for cooling the motor? I like this build and plan on doing one.

Well I changed the connection type for the sensors due to the above issue. Tested and again after 2.5 days, it locked out on a sensor com error. So after some thought, I realized, (not sure why I didn't before) the system is not going to be 100% bullet proof, so instead of moving to a hard fault, I recoded the error handling section of the sketch to attempt to handle the occasional hiccups in reading the sensors. Pushed new sketch to Github and am testing now. It will interesting to see just how many times the readings fail. I shall see.....

@meanpenugin Thanks. Definitely stranded, but even the options that's I've put my hands on aren't as flexible as a standard USB cable. I think the difference is in the jacket material. I've order, what I hope will work from MCM, so I shall see. I would have never guessed that finding nice flexible 4 conductor ~22 gauge wire would be such an issue.

Thanks Guys

Well, all the sensors as still running YEAH YEAH YEAH... I think this problem is finally behind me. We have not locked up since moving to the latest versions of the DallasTemperature and OneWire libraries. Not sure what the differences are between the MySensor download versions and the latest, but it appears that was indeed the cause. Is there any way the MySensor project download can be updated to include the latest version of these libraries? Thanks to all who gave suggestions and time in helping me sort this out. I was very close to throwing in the towel..

@bjornhallberg That was it!!!!! I tried 22uF, was still doggie, so I thought why not move up to 47uF and what do you know, that seems to be the winning value. I have some more testing, but looking pretty good so far. Thanks everybody for all the suggestions.

Update: Wind up having to buy a oscilloscope to try and diagnose a problem I was having and wound up reworking the transformer board a little. I installed 5 caps in an attempt to clean up the output. 4.7uF/400V Cap between pins 22 and 26 on transformer. electrolytic 470uF/50v Between 5vd Output (electrolytic) 47uF/50v Between 5vd Output (electrolytic) 10uF/50v Between 5vd Output (electrolytic) .1uF/ (ceramic) Installed at the screw connector on the main board (for best results)

@jendrush said: Maybe small usb wall charger for 1,4$, and regulator from 5V to 3.3V for 0,1$ would be good solution? For some projects, using cheap chargers can be a good option. However, I'd open any such cheap charger and have a look before using it. Some appear to be acceptably designed, and some appear to be dangerous designs, from the teardowns. For example: http://www.righto.com/2012/10/a-dozen-usb-chargers-in-lab-apple-is.html He rated 2 out of the batch as downright dangerous. Even with one which appears to have a reasonable design with enough separation, I would not be poking around in the sensors or PCB while they are currently powered from 230V with a cheap charger. Unplug first. And if you need power for programming or testing, use your normal USB supply (eg: a laptop or a high quality power supply) or batteries. Maybe that's just me, but this seems like a reasonably easy additional precaution. Even if the PCB has good separation, the insulation between windings of a transformer could be marginal, for example. Most readers here probably already know this, just thought it was worth noting for anybody coming to this hobby more recently.