@WiktorDIY The ch340 are notorious for being broken. The best I ever achieved was 19200 and flakey..
I purchased a real Nano not a ch knock off eg uses a different uart no problems
@lrtsenar
The MySensors Libraries were designed around the nrf24l01 transceivers which have much more built in capability than a simple 433Mhz Tx/Rx pair. You can make a node which contains a nrf and 433 Rx/Tx and it can transfer messages between the MySensors architecture and common 433Mhz devices. If you are only interested in 433Mhz devices with Domoticz, see the RFLink project for more info. I believe it requires a mega to fit their libraries.
thx for reply
yes dragino HE works like yun I think.
for linkit as the product seems new, there is a little bit less docs. but I will see, price was so interesting that it was too much tempting lol.
I will tell you what I can get...
for fun, I have not presented yet, but I have a board in progress for raildin : 8x relays + 8inputs for yun and I added ethernet connector+hub usb chip
@Samuel235 said in Homini AC Powered Relay (2) Module:
OMRON G3MB-202P
Okay I'm trying to help you with the fuse component.
I found a datasheet for the OMRON G3MB-202P. And there are enoght information to be known for fuse selection.
I try to calculate it here (and i will try it with my bad English ).
The most important information is the melting integral.
The Melting integral has A²s as unit. So this means the maximum current for a time can exists without damaging the device. For further information look at wikipedia.
So we need any further information about:
the protection which is present before (the typical circuit protection in private houses)
the melting integral from the device which we want to protect
the maximum voltage
the maximum switching current
the breaking capacity
Inrush current for the switched devices (we can't know)
Typical values for an automatic circuit breaker in private houses are:
from 25 to 100 A²s
230 V AC
16 A
So this protection isn't good enough for our relay. The relay have these values:
230 V AC
2 A maximum switching current
I²t value (melting integral): 4 A²s
the allowed inrush current over a small time is higher than the melting integral. It is a bit confusing i think, but if we calculate the protection for the given melting integral and it's fine. So we can define the parameters for the client (switching site of this application here)
The fuse have to be:
I²s value higher or equal than the I²s value from the existing protection
rating voltage over 230 V AC
rating current 2 A or lower (because 2 A is the maximum at 25 °C, for 40 °C it is about 1.6 A)
a maximum switching time of 1 second at 2 A or lower time with higher current but below 4A²s! To calculate use the switching time from the fuse datasheet an multiply it two times with the given current for this switching time.
And i think a fast blow fuse would be the best. There are SMD fuses with 10.1 x 3 mm and 250 V AC available.
If there is no fuse available with the values above, we could combine multiple fuses. A possible solution could be one bigger fuse for both relays and the ac/dc component. And a smaller fuse for the switching site of the relay and the HLK-PM01. But for this it is important that the circuit have only one input for the hot one (L) of 230 V and one output for each relay. In this case we could reduce the big connectors from 6 to 4. Like (L, N, Relay1, Relay2).
And the temperature fuse can work for all components too
So the protection for the primary site of the HLK-PM01 is a problem i think. Because the are no information available about the I²s value from HLK-PM01.
I hope you can understand my English and could follow my explanation?
@alexsh1
Hi Alex,
I tested the Sanity check on the the Arduino sensor node, and status came back OK. However I could get this to work on the Raspberry Pi, seems like this function is not yet supported. At least I couldn't find any info on it using the "./configuration -h".
I don't have a AMS1117 available so I can test that.
I connected my Arduino Nano and NRF24L01+ to the Raspberry Pi via USB, that would really well. So I might just use this solution instead as I see little benefit of connecting the NRF24L01 directly to the GPIO pins on the Raspberry Pi.
Next step is to start building some battery powered sensors that I can use, and get MyController setup properly.
