Topics created by markjgabb

There are a bunch of non-contact voltage detector videos on youtube: Homemade Non-contact Voltage Tester – 04:19— Thomas Kim Most are of a 3 transistor design, which from this video looks like it would be good enough for your purpose. If you wanted something even more sensitive (or greater range), you could use op-amps instead.

Yeah I'm changing up the circuit die to inaccuracy... Is a arduino nano 5v powered from usb.....

thanks guys, ill add it to my code tonight and see how it goes

If your Dallas DS18B20 was purchased on ebay or amazon or elsewhere other than DigiKey, Mouser, etc, it is likely counterfeit and will not work in parasitic power mode and will give a -127. Here's a sketch to help determine of the Ds18B20 is genuine and rule-out shoddy counterfeits: https://github.com/cpetrich/counterfeit_DS18B20 I wasted countless days and days with remote sensors only to find they were counterfeit.

@markjgabb said in Works perfectly untill i introduce sleep: additional note my button is connected between GND and D3 with 470k resistor in the middle This will be an unstable way to detect a change as the input pin is 'floating' unless the button is connected when it then gets grounded via the resistor. What would be better is connect the resistor between the positive power of the arduino and the input pin (this is known as a pull-up resistor) and then add the switch from the input pin to ground. In this configuration the input pin is at all times in a known state, either it is 'high' when the button is not pressed or 'low' when the button is pressed. This will give a clear signal to the arduino.

@Yveaux Cheers that's perfect.... unfortunately my FTDI programmer broke last night so now i have to wait for a new one to arrive so that i can do some more work on it

@markjgabb "..cut back all unneccicary steps and really locked down what was going on.." was indeed the idea. What I went on to explain is than you are reporting the state of D3 which goes HIGH/LOW/HIGH via the button, not the light. The critical difference between @skywatch and your install is movement detection maintains a value, your button does not. If you create a variable before the loop, say boolean lightswitch=false; (presuming that the light is ON when you program it) this variable will be changed and reported to Domoticz in the loop. Top of the loop you toggle the "lightswitch" value, first time it will switch false to true, report in the "lightswitch" value then go to sleep. Bottom of the loop your " sleep(digitalPinToInterrupt(DIGITAL_INPUT_SENSOR), CHANGE, SLEEP_TIME); should trigger on a LOW, as this is the momentary state of D3 ONLY when the button is pressed. Your next button press activates the loop, toggles "lightswitch", reports and goes back to sleep, at least two years on a pair of AA cells. Were it I doing this there would be a mains powered indicator on the switch plate which cuts out when the light is on, A- To find the switch in the dark, B-To provide an indicator which can be used to verify the actual state of the light to ensure it stays in sync (Murphy's Law). I don't see the point of using heartbeat as it is not a security device, and only fire the battery reading mosfet every X loops.

@sundberg84 solved the light sensitivity level by swapping the 10k for a 100k... makes it more acurate in lighter enviroments, but less so in dark enviroments but by my theory after its a little dim im counting it as dark all the way to full dark for lighting purposes anyway cheers for all your help....

@sundberg84 nah just prrof of build at the moment...ill fix them with my proper node ID's when it's build time....waiting on step up's at the moment..... they seem to take a while when you find them cheaper

I don't see many issues adding code to make it work with mysensors, but I'd use a Mega 2560 since the uno is really filled up and you don't have pins for radio; also you may be able to integrate the color sensor into the mega without using a second board. Keep in mind that you can that you can use reed or micro switches instead of color sensor if you are willing to add few cables running next to the blinds ️

this solution has worked perfectly thanks guys for all your advice...domoticz definatly cant un ignore anyway that i can find either

I finalized my sketch, you can find it here: https://forum.mysensors.org/topic/6638/multiple-relays-motion-sketch-fully-customizable-optional-timer-manual-override

@markjgabb said in devices a long time away from controller.....: do the devices have lease life times? where they may change there ID without warning... As far as I am aware the node id's are persistent. You would need to manually delete the node on your controller to re allocate the id to a new node. So you should be ok with the node being away for extended periods of time. can i create a node that does nothing but sleep unless one of 3 buttons on it is pushed? Yes that is possible, you would need to use an interrupt for that.

worked around the issue but making it a serial gateway instead as long as my nas is happy i dont mind how it plugs in....

@hek looks good...thanks for that ill investigate over the next week getting it running

that is extremely awesome.... thanks for the time to answer my questions....back to waiting for many ebay parcels...lol