Posts made by TheoL

@OldSurferDude I always put some delays in my presentation part. That way my nodes don't perform a ddos on the gateway after powering up. But yeah curious how that goes what 254 nodes xd

I'm curious as well @NielBierman on the stuff you control and monitor over your network

@OldSurferDude @kiesel Look on open hardware if there's a pcb like that. If it has Gerbers then you can order them for cheap from manufacturers like JLPcb. You will get 5 for 2 euro + some shipment costs. If you guys live close to each other one can order and send one pcb to the other.

If none are available I can see if I can make you one. Although I use NRF myself. But I bet EasyEda will have a footprint for the rfm as well. I'll post it on open hardware so you guys can get the gerber files I you like.

For me almost all I need is in Master. For some nice to haves I have some custom libraries, like a message and a presentation queue. The only wish I have is dual led support.

You can change the channel, at least on the nrf24l01. Works for me. My test network has a different channel

I have mixed Nanos, Pro Minis, ESP8266 and Unos and no problem. I do however have mixed NRF24L01 and NRF24L01+ due to a bad AliExpress saler that stated he sold NRF24L01+ which in fact were not the + version. So I have set my baudrate on all nodes to 1mb.

In order to be helpful we need the log on the Uno.

@mfalkvidd I know xd. But it would be nice - if possible - if a newer version is supported. I'll post a project soon why I would like it.

@TheoL Although I'm curious what the latest supported version for an EsP8266 is. As some of the other libraries I use complain about the 2.6.2 version

@TheoL said in Can not compile MySensors on esp8266:

cont_can_yield' was not declared

Since the search function is broken it was hard to find it on mysensors forum. But google search helped https://forum.mysensors.org/topic/12066/no-lan-connection-esp8266-gateway/16?_=1724514129827

I wanted to dust off an old MySensors project that is running on an esp8266, but when I try uploading the Clear EEPROM sketch I get the following error:

In file included from Arduino/libraries/MySensors/MySensors.h:441,
                 from /private/var/folders/pm/z613mrwd6rx83wg51dx6jkfr0000gn/T/.arduinoIDE-unsaved2024724-45646-98sze5.cjzrw/ClearEepromConfig/ClearEepromConfig.ino:29:
Arduino/libraries/MySensors/hal/architecture/ESP8266/MyMainESP8266.cpp: In function 'bool can_yield()':
Arduino/libraries/MySensors/hal/architecture/ESP8266/MyMainESP8266.cpp:95:9: error: 'cont_can_yield' was not declared in this scope; did you mean 'can_yield'?
   95 |  return cont_can_yield(g_pcont);
      |         ^~~~~~~~~~~~~~
      |         can_yield
Arduino/libraries/MySensors/hal/architecture/ESP8266/MyMainESP8266.cpp: In function 'void esp_yield_within_cont()':
Arduino/libraries/MySensors/hal/architecture/ESP8266/MyMainESP8266.cpp:101:2: error: 'cont_yield' was not declared in this scope; did you mean 'can_yield'?
  101 |  cont_yield(g_pcont);
      |  ^~~~~~~~~~
      |  can_yield
Arduino/libraries/MySensors/hal/architecture/ESP8266/MyMainESP8266.cpp: In function 'void loop_task(ETSEvent*)':
Arduino/libraries/MySensors/hal/architecture/ESP8266/MyMainESP8266.cpp:199:26: error: invalid operands of types 'void' and 'int' to binary 'operator!='
  199 |  if (cont_check(g_pcont) != 0) {
      |      ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ^~ ~
      |                |            |
      |                void         int

exit status 1

Compilation error: exit status 1

As far as I can tell I'm running the latest MySensors version and the latest ESP board version. I'm running on Arduino 1.8.12 though, but that shouldn't matter?

Help much appreciated.

Neither for me

Depending what's connected to a relay, I wouldn't make it go on or off depending on the controller state. It can lead to dangerous behaviour and it's prohibited by law in my country.

In all honesty I have my Sensors running for a long long time. It's stable and more reliable than anything else I have running in my home.

But like @eiten says yo could write a sketch that queries for a variable. But I think I'd go for a controller side solution. That would "ping" my node and send a nottfication to my phone whenever the node can't be reached.

To my knowledge MySensors is a stateless connection, so you can not know when the connection is lost after the node has been initialized. Also when a node is connected to a repeater node, I was told you will get an ack from the repeater even if it fails to deliver the message.

I'm more curious to what you want to achieve, or what you've hooked up to that relay?

@monte I had a gut feeling about it, since dimmable led bulbs like trailing edge. I'll keep looking for a good 220v led bulb dimmer schematic.

As much as I love the 328 I think I should make the change to a different board for me they fit my needs as I try to keep the logic in my nodes as small as possible. I have one rule though: Manual first, for actuators my nodes need to support manual control.

Thanx for the schematics, I'll have a look at. Can you control led light bulbs with this schematics?

@monte do you have a schematis for that dimmer? If so I'm interested in it

@Kokosnoot good solution. I remember the discussion in the early days of MySensors. I've powered the radio's for most of my sensors from the 3.3v regulator on the arduino board and for me that works perfect. But for my latest designs I decided to add a separate ams regulator for my radio's like the guys suggested in the beginning. Because you basically want the on board regulator to power the mcu only.

@adds666 I'm not sure but I believe Domoticz prresents it's dimmer values in steps from 5 to 100 I believe. It'd about 10 steps. That's why I'm not sure if you can add more patterns. Unless you indeed change it to a percentage. Hope it helps

@pbw a gateway's function is to act as a gateway between the nodes and a controller. I don't think you will have all of the needed memory available to add logic to the gateway and you will make your solution very static.

You can implemented your own lightway controller, just have a look at the Serial API. But controllers like Domoticz are lightweight and the already over a browser based interface. And most of them are easy to setup creating a much more versatile and dynamic solution.

@DeepCore That is a need looking design. Did you consider using an alternative power supply other than usb? My Pi can't handle a lot of usb devices power wise, so I'm using a powered usb hub. But the wife doesn't like it, it's messy xd

@bach It does look really great! As far of resistor divers I'm not much fan of that. There are several other options, like a logic level converter circuit with FETs. If I have all 3.3V devices connected to an mcu I prefer to use a 3.3v mcu. Like an esp2866, but I'm still waiting until the irq support on the esp2866 gets available.

For me the nrf24's are still working great and I have a stacked up a lot lol. I'm however experimenting with the rfm's. As I need a bit more range to reach the end of my backyard.

It would be great to see some improvements added to MySensors lib. Like a good message Queue and stuff like that. Ways to get more state out of the lib so you can provide a bit more user feedback. Right now I have some of those in my own lib. When I have time I'll post some on this forum. So others might benefit.

But I'm currently hooked up to modular synths. Learning a lot of analog technology. Which broadens my Arduino horizon.

Hey all,

I wanna wish you all the best X-mas - I know it's a little but early - and I wish you all some awesome projects in 2022. I hope we can get a creative spirit in 2022 and create cool things together.

@perIpI I know for sure d3 and d4 can give troubles with interrupts. As it can prevent the ESP from being booted.

I recently created a Wemos Mini d1 node. That works without any problems. But I use NRF24L01.

What happens when you comment out #include <MySensors.h> ?? I assume it would run. But use Serial.begin( 115200); and Serial.println( "Test" ); in the setup

Maybe someone like @Yveaux can help

@perIpI not sure if it's the cause. But try disabling the interrupt. So disconnect d1 and remove the interrupt config.

@zboblamont That's what I love about my sensors. I created my own "SMART" lights, whit fairy light led strings. To provide sufficient light and are manual operable as long as they have power xd

Lately I have to turn off some of my Ikea lightbubles after each update of the gateway. As they are greyed out in the app. If you're not on time replacing the switch batteries, getting everything setup again is a nightmatr

I do use Inter For Things. Like wether prediction for watering the garden. But It's not bad if it misses one day.

@perIpI Something is causing your esp to reboot. To be able to help finding the cause, providing a wiring diagram and the sketch can help

reset causes:
The codes are :

0 -> normal startup by power on
1 -> hardware watch dog reset
2 -> software watch dog reset (From an exception)
3 -> software watch dog reset system_restart (Possibly unfed watchdog got angry)
4 -> soft restart (Possibly with a restart command)
5 -> wake up from deep-sleep

So it's in the code, as you get a software reset caused by an exception

@zboblamont I'd never have my house logic or my data in the cloud. Logic means you can't do much if you're internet is gone. And data, well I don't want all data like when I'm at home in the cloud :). But maybe I'm old fashioned

What I miss is the creativity. In the beginning everybody had crazy ideas and build awesome projects. I'd like to see that back xd

@Dizzwold This is not the right topic. And perhaps not the right forum. I think it's best to ask this in the candle forum

@Dizzwold Oh you're asking a lot of questions that are all about the candlelight project and not so much on mysensors lol. I know you can configure the raspberry to change the rotation of the screen. But it's something you have to google. As of the candle. I've never installed it. But I suggest you have a look at the log files?

@Jodaille Thanx for the link to the project. I think I'll order one of those sensors this weekend. As I hope it can also send the amount of rain that is falling.

I do have to check the optical sensor. But I really like the heating in the controlli sensor

@keczejo Finding the root cause is hard. Because you currently have no working device. If you have some spare try changing radios. Move the node further away from the gateway. And things like that.

@Nigel31 Maybe it's best to use the wait outside a while loop. With this I mean. Right now you're calling a function that does the resends within the same while loop - so basically it blocks the main loop. The only thing I can think of, is that MySensors doesn't get time to execute all it needs to do before you call the next request.

So if you'd rewrite the code a little bit so it does all the requests in different execution of the main loop() method. It might work much better. As I do it in a MessageQueue I've written and don't have the problems you have. Also sometimes it takes a while before a node starts using the repeater. If it's close enough to the gateway to get some responses. Than - if understand correctly - it will not start using the repeater until the repeater sees x-time of failures.

@Dizzwold Not sure if I understand your question correctly. As PI's have multiple USB ports it doesn't matter which one you use. So I'd say use any of the available USB ports. But some how I have the feeling you have a different question

@keczejo Not sure what the W5100 takes for power. I'd try to power the NRF on the gateway with a power regulator.

Also if you disconnect the W5100 and set the getway up as a serial gateway, will it be able to find the parent? I'd try that as a first step

@keczejo Could you please post the code and if it's not too hard the schematics. It makes it easier to help you find the problem.
I have 2 fairy lights led dimmer approximately 2 - 3 meters from the node. But so far no problem with them. I upgraded to the latest recently and discovered that adding this config line solved my problems. Apparently I didn't have the good quality NRF radio's but this line solved it for me:

#define MY_RADIO_RF24
#define MY_RF24_DATARATE RF24_1MBPS // see (https://forum.mysensors.org/topic/4631/nrf24l01-can-t-find-parent-on-gateway/7)

Needs to be on all nodes and Gateway

@keczejo what's the distance between the node and the gateway?

@Jodaille The buckets are nice for measuring the amount of rain that has fallen over a period. But with light rains changes are the bucket won't tip. The normal rain sensors are useful for closing sun screens when it rains. Because they will always give a signal when it rains. Regarding the amount of rain that is falling.

For the weather sensors I use an Alecto one. I can connect it Domoticz using an RFXtrx433E transceiver. But it's still on my bucket list to replace all of those with a mysensor version. For the wind direction and speed I'll be using a AMS AS5600 since they are very precise and don't need interrupts. So I can use one arduino for the complete weather station.

But currently a real rain sensor is higher on my todo list, as we will get a new motorized sunscreen xd

Did any one ever experimented with this rain sensor https://www.radiomodules.eu/en/component/62/capacitive-rain-sensor?

It doesn't oxidize like the normal rain sensors and has a builtin temperature sensor and heater. The heating seems like a good thing for during the winters. So you can melt away any snow. Although I assume you have to turn it on whenever you measure any rain, so the water can vaporize. Because I think that might give a false positive. But that would be something to test.

On the product site there's also the schematics for an Arduino Uno Shield and a sketch you can upload to operate the Sensor. I didn't have time yet to check those out.

I think the sensor is also used in a lot in the more expensive commercial rain sensors. Although they only trigger a rain detection signal not the amount of falling rain. According to the production site, you should also be able to detect the amount of rain, which is indicated by the capacitance you measure on the sensor.

I'm pretty sure Kemo uses this sensor in their product.

The RC-SPC1K seems like a decent sensor for rain detection. But I can't find many Arduino projects. So wondering if any one of you has any experience with this sensor. Because a commercially available solution costs 50 euro. Although the sensor itself also costs 18 euros, 9 for the sensor and 9 shipping costs. And you still need some components - opto coupler and resistor - to hook it up to the Arduino and a water resistant casing.

I can imagine more projects then only a rain sensor for closing the sunscreens. Maybe something like a small water basin for birds during those hot summer days, that gets refilled when it's empty.

@raptorjr said in Glowing/pulsing yellow LED?:

MKRNB 1500

It helps if you post a wiring diagram and a sketch.

I actually created a message queue for this. It will go on retry when it gets a didn't reach parent. So I know when the communication is gone. I'll add a communication up event to it. And I should be done. I won't know it it reaches the gateway. But I can add a visual indicator for when the repeater is out. That's sufficient for me.

While we're at this topic. Does any one know what the NRF24L01+ does with it's interrupt pin? I'd like to hook it up to the other pin - d4 in this case. Does it pull high when there's a new message or is it pulled up by default? Which I hope

It's something I'm looking for as well

Hi all,

Recently I started to experiment with the Wemos D1 mini as a MySensors node, with a NRF24L01+ radio. As most wouldn't go this route, since it has built in WiFi. I did, because for one WiFi was not available for the particular node I'm developing. And second I don't really like my HA to run on WiFi. There are many reasons I have for this. But my main concern is the amount of time it takes to reconfigure all your nodes when the ssid and or password on your router have changed. But let's not start a topic on this. In this topic I just wanted to share some tips and tricks I discovered which some were hard to find on the internet and others I came up with my own solution. I'll keep adding tips and tricks to this topic if I discover new ones.

The Mini D1 doesn't like it when you declare an interrupt handler like you'd normally do.

volatile bool interruptReceived= false;

void handleInterrupt() {
  interruptReceived = true;
}

If you're lucky it compiles. But it will not work. You'll receive a strange bootloader error and the Mini will not boot. The reason for this is that the Mini expects handlers to be stored in the IRAM space. Just add a compiler directive and your interrupt handler will work just fine.

volatile bool interruptReceived= false;

ICACHE_RAM_ATTR void handleInterrupt() {
  interruptReceived = true;
}

void setup() {
    pinMode( interruptPin, INPUT_PULLUP );
    attachInterrupt(digitalPinToInterrupt( interruptPin ), handleInterrupt, FALLING ); 

Be carefull with using interrupts on D3 and D4

So the ESP2866 does a lot of funky things during bootup. It will pull some pins HIGH and LOW to check if it should go into program mode or not. It probably uses it for more reasons, but I'm by no means an ESP expert. The D3 and D4 pins are pulled up high by the Esp, with a - I believe - 10K resistor. Whenever you connect anything to it, that will cause these pins to be high during booting, the Wemos will not finish the boot mode and your sketch is never loaded.

I wanted to attach an MCP23017 port extender to my Wemos and use the interrupt to refresh the values. So I didn't need to poll the MCP23017 all of the time and kept CPU time available for other tasks. The problem with this, is that the MCP23017 pulls it's interrupt pin HIGH when there's no interrupt - which is always the case when the chip power's up. So connecting the interrupt pin to D3 or D4 caused my Mini D1 to not exit boot mode.

I could have simply used D3 and D4 as SDA and SCL pins for the I2c communications and use D1 and D2 as interrupt pins. But not all libraries like that. So the easiest way to get around it was a simple and cheap hardware solution. I connected a diode (doesn't matter which one you take. Just take a low 1N400x one) and that did the following:
The HIGH value of the MCP's interrupt pin is blocked by the diode. When the MCP pulls the interrupt pin low current can flow between the interrupt pin (INPUT_PULLUP) on the Wemos Mini and the MCP's interrupt pin. This made sure the MCP is never able to pull the pin on the Mini high. And the problem was actually solved - easy peasy. I can use D3 and D4 as interrupt pins.

Here's the schematic. In my case I use the mirror mode on the MCP's interrupts. So I only need to connect one of the MCP23017's interrupt pins to the Wemos.

I also run the MCP23017 on 3.3V so it's the same as the Wemos mini.

Looks awesome. Might be fun to put it outside before your front door on 31th October. Still have a Halloween project on my ever growing bucketlist xd

Blynk is awesome for controlling Halloween projects.

Also posting the wiring helps others to help you. Fitzing is easy for this task

What type of relay are you using? You can only use one with opto couplers. You can regonise it, because it has a vcc and a jd-vcc pin. Power the jd-vcc with 5v and vcc with 3v. The vcc is for TTL lvl control and the jd-vcc powers the 5v relay. Without this version you can not hook up a relay to a 3.3v microcontroller. Because the high state is barely high enough to drive a normal 5v relay

@anderBAKE Be careful to which pin you hook up the relay. Most Mini D1 pins are shortly being pulled up during boot up. That short spike can damage the device you've connected to the relay. It's why I avoid using the Wemos D1 mini with relays. I believe d0 is one of the pins that's not being pulled high during boot up - but not sure.

@mfalkvidd I'm in an older version I discovered. Ran across more small differences.

Not sure if it ever has mentioned before, but the first example contains

// Enable and select radio type attached
#define MY_RADIO_RF24

Which results in a compile error

MySensors.h:287:4: error: #error No forward link or gateway feature activated. This means nowhere to send messages! Pretty pointless.
   #error No forward link or gateway feature activated. This means nowhere to send messages! Pretty pointless.

It should be:

// Enable and select radio type attached
#define MY_RADIO_NRF24

And then it compiles and works

@chbarg In all honesty, I think ZigBee is much older than mySensors. It's a pretty old standard. But it was very expensive to use, but since Philips and Ikea used it in their smart lightning it has become very cheap. Zigbee is used in commercial products, whereas my Sensors is just a nice and - more reliable - option for those who like to build their own stuff. I say more reliable, because the Ikea stuff I use is not always available. At least I have troubles with it. Also the batteries in the remotes drain really fast. Specially when attached to the gateway and night directly to a device

@feanor-anglin it really looks very interesting to me. And if I'd renovate my house or bought a new house. I'd go for wired for sure. I'm running my sensors with NRF24L01+ for over 7 years now. And I actually didn't notice any problem. It's very reliable, but I admit the radio is very picky on it's power. Most problems I ran into where all power related.

Why I've been absent for a long time has several personal reasons. I needed to finish a study I was following next to my job. And after I finished it I had some health issues. And when I decided to get back into it. My dad passed away. We're now cleaning out his workshop, he earned his living as an electronics repair man. I'm keeping the stuff I can use, like the Fluke meters - although they are 20 years old they still work good - his lab power supply and stuff like that. It's also to moment to redo my own workshop. Because the organization was completely lost. I ordered a lot of parts the last years but never took the time to store them.

So hopefully this will al be done and I can finally finish some of the projects that are laying on my desk for years

@monte We must have a conversation in a chat or something. to me Ikea is not usable at all. Usable meaning effictive, efficient and looking good.

@monte As a UX designer I dare to differ. HA anno 2021 is overly complicated. No one needs to know how to wire a light fixture. You just change the light bulb when it's broken. Or if in some cases hire an electrician.

I believe I can design things much much simpler. And make it usable.

@NeverDie I'm actually looking for a team backend and frontend to help me reinvent home automation. And give it back to all people, not only the technical ones. I've done quiet a lot of pocs to test me ideas. Preferably Python back end, so I can do some help in coding xd

Current HA systems are difficult. In comparison to the real world, it means that when you want to change a light bulb, you have to completely rewire the fixture in which the lightbulb you wanted to replace was in.

I think it's too complicated ^^

To me it is a lack of time. Still have tons of projects not finished. Right now really focused more on making the whole eco system Usable. As far as I can tell not one single HA system is usable for a mere mortal. It's either centered around a mobile phone, which is a no-no for me. It's not reliable in terms of battery can be low while you want to turn something on or off and the screen is too small for eco systems that cover an entire house. And when they're not centered around a mobile phone everything is glued together with scripts. It's all too complicated. I think I can make it more simple xd

@Thomas433 The 5V version can run on 16Mhz the 3.3V max is 8Mhz. This will infect the amount of traffic it can handle. I use an Arduino Uno for at least 5 years and it never failed. An arduino Nano will also work. The nano and uno have a 3.3v regulator on board which makes powering the radio easier you don't need to add an power regulator. Not sure why you need the logic level converters though

I've been experimenting with PCB design the last few weeks. I'm currently using an Arduino Uno as my Gateway with everything mounted on a breadboard and dupont cables. As it doesn't have the waf factor I promised my better half to make a nice enclosure for it, but for that I had to create a shield. This one is for my NRF24L01+ network. My latest sensors all work on RFM96 with the MySensors Gateway. But as you can order it almost fully mounted I think it's a nice entrance level solution for those who want to start with MySensors without having all the problems I've seen on this forum. You simple mount the shield - maybe solder the radio - upload the code and you're got to go in 10 - 20 minutes.

@skywatch my 50 cents is that you might want to achieve to much. Having 2 different networks is not a problem. But one device in 2 networks, not sure if it will solve your problem.

@skywatch It would by much easier to share sensors on different controllers between controllers.

Controller A is the master, controller B receives updates. Domoticz supports this. Don't know about the others

How ever powering from usb is not very stable. When sending multiple messages with delays my sketch sometimes stalls. Need to test with the suggested 6v power supply though. But most nodes don't need to send multiple messages quickly

@Yveaux I also add the delay to not ddos the gateway. When I did the MySensors workshop, 20 people started to connect to the gateway almost at the same time. And they got Funky messages. Since then I do a delay. But it would probably be better to add a random time to the delay. Something like 20ms + random( 0 - 30 ) ms. That way you don't get the ddos effect. Sonoff had the same problems with their solution a couple of years ago, when the servers went down. All Sonoff devices tried to reconnect almost the at the same time. Which caused a ddos xd

Not sure if it helps. But chrome changed things for CORS. If the CURS headers aren't set correctly you can not use a rest api anymore.

@tssk I use a threshold. I measure every 30 - 60 seconds. If a change goes pass the threshold I report immediately. Else I report periodically. I think I've created a small lib for that some years ago

@Anticimex Don't think they use have encryption. It's just not powerful enough for that

@Melih-Kulig Don't forget to order some 100uf capacitors, if you don't have them. It helps getting the NRF24L01+ working smoothly

It's called a flyback diode. And probably most won't use it on a reed switch. I've discovered that if I open and close a reed switch fast. It sometimes caused my arduino to reset. Since then I use a flyback per read sensor. This occured when I was building a wind speed sensor.
But I'm more a software guy. The hardware specialists can help you much more with this.

I have a very old gateway. I believe it's still on MySensors 1.5 - but nor sure. It's just an Arduino Uno, which is connected to through USB to a Raspberry PI running Domoticz. All nodes have a NRF24L01+ radio. For me that works perfect. I have no issues with the setup.

What does the debug show in your serial monitor?

@Melih-Kulig I can't help you with Home Assistant. I use Domoticz. But in domoticz a Sensor only appears after it has send a value to domoticz. So you could try top open and close one the read sensors just to check if that works for you as well.

Don't forget to use protective diodes (sorry forget the English names) in each reed sensor. Not doing it could damage your Arduino mega.

Personally I'd split the sensors over multiple nodes. Right now no sensor will work if there's a problem with the arduino or when it's not powered. Using multiples will only result in some not working when there's a problem with on of your Arduinos

@Melih-Kulig for your for loops in presentation and the loop I'd change some things. right now you are accessing array elements that are out of the array bounds. I don't have much time but the general idea would be:

  for (byte i = 0; i < 22; i++) { // access all 22 elements
    present(i, S_DOOR);
  }

The i is good for accessing the array. The only thing where you want something to change is where you access a pin:

void setup() {
  for (byte i = 0; i <22 i++) {
    debouncer[ i ] = Bounce();
    oldValue[ i  = -1;
    // Setup the button
    pinMode( i + 22, INPUT_PULLUP);// <---- here you want add 22 as the pin offset
    // After setting up the button, setup debouncer
    debouncer[ i ].attach( i + 22 ); // <---- here you want add 22 as the pin offset
    debouncer[ i ].interval(5);
  }
}

This way you don't go out of the bounds. And only for the pins you need to add the offset. For the rest off the code the way I propose makes it much more easy to read.

Hope it makes sense

I'm sure you have a good reason for hooking up that many devices. Just wanted to point out that the soft debounce is kind of tricky. Since it's blocking your code for 32 * 5 ms. Which is pretty long for a micro controller.

Also curious how you get that many pins? Which board are you using?

Bounce debouncer[32];
int oldValue[32];
MyMessage msg[32];

void setup() {
  for (byte i = 22; i <= 54; i++) {
    debouncer[i] = Bounce();
    oldValue[i] = -1;
  }
  for (byte i = 22; i <= 54; i++) {
    pinMode(i, INPUT);
    digitalWrite(i, HIGH);
    debouncer[i].attach(i);
    debouncer[i].interval(5);
  }
}

You have a possible memory allocation problems with this part. The index of the first element in an array is always 0. You start at index 22 and end at 54. And the two for loops could be combined.

like so.

Bounce debouncer[32];
int oldValue[32];
MyMessage msg[32];

void setup() {
  for (byte i = 22; i <= 54; i++) { // I assume you start at 22 for an offset
    debouncer[i - 22 ] = Bounce();
    oldValue[ i - 22] = -1;

    pinMode( i, INPUT); // <------ pin 22? That one is not available on any uno, nano or micro
    digitalWrite( i, HIGH); // <--- I think you want to use INPUT_PULLUP in the pinMode
    debouncer[i - 22].attach(i);
    debouncer[i - 22].interval(5);
  }
}

All I did was fixing the wrong Array indexes. Maybe it's a good idea to post a wiring diagram of how you attach things. I might be able to help you more

I also think you want to use () instead of []

msg[i].setSensor[i];    // <--- you are trying to call an element of the array setSensor
msg[i].setType[V_TRIPPED]; // <--- same, calling an aray

These are functions and functions use ()

msg[i].setSensor( i );
msg[i].setType( V_TRIPPED ); 

@Njwyborn my guess would by, if you can program an MCU via the Arduino IDE it should be supported. Of course the ones with smaller ram and heap might lack resources. But other than that they should all work.

Not sure if you guys watch or follow Kevin Darrah on YouTube but he found a way to clone the flash of the ESP, including wifi settings.

How To Read from ESP32 - CLONE/BACKUP Everything

He promised to post a follow up, with how to decrypt your flash.

So I know a lot of people switched over to Tasmota and other ESP enabled solution. Just wanted to share my experience of Today and couldn't really find another topic.

As of Today I finally have fiber glass internet. Something I looked forward to and feared at the same time. I was looking forward to the speed. But not in getting everything working with a new router. I'll keep it short.

1. Telephone - worked immediately no problems at all
2. Wifi - Hard time finding the new ssid. But I lucked out. After a call with KPN, I found out the new router copied the ssid and password from the old router
3. Getting home automation and Ikea tradfri gateway running. I use TP-link power line to connect all ethernet devices by wire. But I always assumed you couldn't use a switch connected to a tp-link. Oh boy I was wrong. It worked.
4. The new router differs from the old one, in the way that it does not have a separate output for the tv receiver, you can connect the receiver just to any ethernet port you have available. So I hooked the reciever up to a tp-link and running.
5. Sonos didn't work. I needed to connect only one with ethernet to my router en reenter the SSID and passwd. But then Sonos was back in the air.

Now imagine of you have a dozen of ESP as sensors or actuators. And the new router would not have copied the SSID and password? Then I would manually have to set the new ssid and password for each ESP. When I realized this, it came to me how simple MySensors is in use. Thankful that I discovered it. And thankful to you all for creating this great sensors network

@NeverDie Agree. This was however an expensive version I bought via a Dutch webshop. I haven't seen this version on aliexpress. I'll make a photo of it this weekend. Maybe others know where we can but this version.

I know it's an old topic. But Today I received 2 of the Makefun RF Nanos. And after reading this topic I feared I would need a lot of time to get it to work. But I quickly adjusted a MySensors example and hooked a led to it, just to able to test.

I don't need to specify the CE and CS pins - in fact it didn't work if I did. And I can control the led with the node located in every room in my house. Not that I have a very big house. But so far no failures. So the reach isn't that bad at all. I also see a connector that seems to be there for hooking up an Antenna. I think that would be something I try before replacing the capacitor.

As a non hardware specialist soldering SMD is a skill I have yet to master. So I'm quite happy with the small footprint. As I don't plan on powering this one with batteries, I power it with a phone charger. Next step is to see how stable it is as a gateway. But That is something I wanna try in the weekend.

Here's the simple sketch I used. Don't watch the comments. I literally heked it together to be able to test it.

 Test sketch for testing the RF Nano
*/

// Enable debug prints to serial monitor
//#define MY_DEBUG

// Enable and select radio type attached
#define MY_RADIO_NRF24
//#define MY_RADIO_RFM69

#include <SPI.h>
#include <MySensors.h>

#define SN "RF Nano test"
#define SV "1.0"

const uint8_t LED_PIN = 8;

MyMessage lightMsg(0, V_LIGHT);


/***
   Test sketch initialization method
*/
void setup()
{
  pinMode( LED_PIN, OUTPUT );
  digitalWrite( LED_PIN, LOW );

}

void presentation() {
  // Register the LED Dimmable Light with the gateway
  present( 0, S_LIGHT );

  delay( 50 );

  sendSketchInfo(SN, SV);

  delay( 50 );

  // Pull the gateway's current light state  upon sensor node power-up. All examples says it should be in the setup -
  // but that never works for me. Besides I thought the setup was only executed ones and the presentation each time after a succesfull connection
  request( 0, V_LIGHT );
}

/***
    Dimmable LED main processing loop
*/
void loop()
{
}

void receive(const MyMessage &message) {
  if (message.type == V_LIGHT || message.type == V_DIMMER) {
    Serial.println( message.data  );
    int lightState = atoi( message.data );

    if ( lightState ) {
      Serial.println( "Turning light on" );
      digitalWrite( LED_PIN, HIGH );
    }
    else {
      Serial.println( "Turning light off" );
      digitalWrite( LED_PIN, LOW );
    }

So far happy with it. I'll give it a durability test the next few weeks. Just to see if it will keep working. The only thing I really don't like is the very very bright power led. So I guess I have to start practicing removing these tiny SMD leds.

But if it keeps performing as it does. This might be my to go with board for all non battery powered nodes.

@mfalkvidd The mySensors site with all the build examples. The gesture control sensors is still in MySensors 1.x version

@APL2017 I'm working on a small library that handles a lot of those dimming features. We can always integrate it later on. But first let's try to make the gesture sensor stable. Then we can update the code on the website as well @mfalkvidd ?

@APL2017 I converted the MySensors 1.5 version to 2.x. It compiles but I can not test it since I don't have a hardware setup.

Can you give it a try?

/****************************************************************
  Title: MySensors enabled, gesture controlled lamp.

  V1.1 March 2016 by Theo
  v2.3 January 2021 by Theo (converted to MS 2.0)

  This lamp can be turned on/off, and dimmed by gestures. And it can be controlled by any Home Automation
  system, that can talk with MySensors.

  Supported gesture:
  1. Left to right stroke: turns lamp on
  2. Right to left stroke: turns lamp off
  3. Down to up stroke: increases brightness (When brightness is already at max, the lamp will blink - duration and blink count can be changed in the sketch)
  4. Up to down stroke: decreases brgihtness (When brightness level is at 0 the lamp is off)

  The gesture sensor ues in this Sketch is an APDS-9960 RGB and Gesture Sensor, sold by SparkFun. They can be found on eBay and Aliexpress as well.
  See Sparkfuns hookup guide for pin lay-out ( https://learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials/apds-9960-rgb-and-gesture-sensor-hookup-guide )
  IMPORTANT: The APDS-9960 can only accept 3.3V! Use bi direction level converter when using another Arduino than a Pro Mini 3.3V

  This Sketch is based upon the GestureTest exampl developped by,
  Shawn Hymel @ SparkFun Electronics on May 30, 2014. See https://github.com/sparkfun/APDS-9960_RGB_and_Gesture_Sensor

  The lamp itself is a white LED strip, controlled by an N channel MOSFET.

  Fore more details on the used hardware and libraries (see https://www.openhardware.io/view/50/Gesture-controlled-MySensors-Floor-lamp )

  Developed and test with MySensors release 1.5.4

  Revision history:
  31-02-2021 Version 2.2:
      - Sketch converted to MySensors 2.0+ (Not not tested)
  20-03-2016 Version 1.1:
      - set the brightness level to defined BRIGHTNESS_INCREMENT, when lamp is being turned on be a gesture and the current brightness level is 0.
        This was a little bug in previous version. It sometimes seemed that the APDS didn't work, but in some cases I had to increase brightness after
        I turned the lamp on.
      - cleaned up the code a bit
  19-03-2016 Version 1.0
****************************************************************/

// Set the wait for ready to zero if you want the light the be operable even when the Gateway is off.
//#define MY_TRANSPORT_WAIT_READY_MS 0


// Enable and select radio type attached
#define MY_RADIO_NRF24


// Import libraries used by the Sketch.
#include <SPI.h>
#include <MySensors.h>
#include <Wire.h>
#include <SparkFun_APDS9960.h>

// Constants declaration(s)
#define APDS9960_INT                      2   // Needs to be an interrupt pin. We should be able to use the Arduino's pin 3 as well.
#define LED_PIN                           3   // The led PWM pin, that drives the LED strip. This is the pin thats attached to the mosfet.
#define MAXDIMLEVELS                     100  // The maximum number of dim levels. Domoticz supports 0-100 (we'll transalate thim in an array)
#define BRIGHTNESS_INCREMENT             15   // Dimmer increment for gesture(s). Play with this value yourself. The amount of gesture controlled
// dim levels is MAXDIMLEVELS / BRIGHTNESS_INCREMENT having 8 to 5 levels feels more natural to me.
#define MAX_LEVEL_REACHED_DELAY          150  // Short blinking delay when increasing the dimmer while the dimmer is already at max
// Had some troubles in the past with tha acurateness of the gw.wait on pro mini's. But that'll probably
// not be noticeable with this short delay. Delay is in milliseconds
#define MAX_LEVEL_REACHED_SIGNAL_COUNT   2    // The amount of blinks, when the max dim level already has been reached. It's just a way to let the user know
// that the lamp can not be more brighter than the current brightness
#define CHILD_ID_LIGHT                   1    // The child id of the Node. Only one Node on this sensor though. See MySensors documentation
#define LIGHT_OFF                        0    // Constant indicating the lamp on state
#define LIGHT_ON                         1    // Constant indicationg light off state
#define SN "Gesture controlled lamp"          // Description of this sketch. 
#define SV "2.2"                              // The version of the Sketch

// Global Variables
SparkFun_APDS9960 apds = SparkFun_APDS9960(); // Initialize a SparkFun_APDS9960 object. This does all the magic incl. i2c communication with the sensor.
int isr_flag = 0;                             // interrupt flag, triggered when a gesture has been dectected. Used to detect gesture detection in the interrupt handler
// the actual handling is done in the main loop. This allows is the keep the interrupt handler is lightweight is possible
// which is a good practice. Otherwise you'll get some behaviour you don't expect.
int LastLightState = LIGHT_OFF;               // The current lamp state. Wel'll turn it off for first time useage. The Sketch will query your Home Automation System for
// the last value when it's being reboot.
int LastDimValue = MAXDIMLEVELS;              // last known dim value (Only initial value. Value is retrieved from your HA system)

/**
   Values could be calculated. But the sketch is small and storing in an Array is just faster. Otherwise we have to do calculations that incl Floats.
   Floats take up a lot of your arduino memory
*/
int dimlevels[ MAXDIMLEVELS ] =  // PWM values used for translating home automation dimmer levels. This gives smoother transations
{ 0,   1,   2,   3,   4,   5,   6,   7,   8,   9,
  10,  11,  12,  13,  14,  15,  16,  17,  18,  19,
  20,  21,  22,  23,  24,  25,  26,  27,  28,  29,
  30,  31,  32,  35,  39,  42,  46,  49,  52,  56,
  59,  62,  66,  69,  73,  76,  79,  83,  86,  89,
  93,  96, 100, 103, 106, 110, 113, 116, 120, 123,
  126, 130, 133, 137, 140, 144, 147, 150, 154, 157,
  160, 164, 167, 171, 174, 177, 181, 184, 187, 191,
  194, 197, 201, 204, 208, 211, 215, 218, 221, 225,
  228, 231, 235, 238, 242, 245, 246, 250, 251, 255
};

/**
   Variables needed for setting up and communication with MySensors. These variables will handle all of the MySensors magic for you.
*/
MyMessage lightMsg(CHILD_ID_LIGHT, V_LIGHT);
MyMessage dimmerMsg(CHILD_ID_LIGHT, V_DIMMER);

/**
   Initializing code. Basicly we'll setup MySensors communication and test if we can communicate with the gesture sensor. See comment in setup method for more details
*/
void setup() {
  //  // Initialize NFR24L01+ radio for enabling MySensors );
  //  gw.begin(incomingMessage, AUTO, false);


  // declare output pin for PWM control of the MOSFET
  pinMode( LED_PIN, OUTPUT );

  // APDS Initialization code
  pinMode(APDS9960_INT, INPUT);   // Set interrupt pin as input. @@Note: this should be handled my the library. But it isn't
  attachInterrupt(0, interruptRoutine, FALLING);   // Initialize interrupt service routine. Basicly it'll call our interrupt routine

  if ( apds.init() ) { // Initialize APDS-9960 (configure I2C and initial values)
    // @@NOTE: original value is two. But it looks like the modern gesture sensor or more sensitive. 1 does it for me
    apds.setGestureGain( 1 );
  }

  if ( apds.enableGestureSensor(true) ) { // Start running the APDS-9960 gesture sensor engine. Sensor support more functions than gesture detection only.
    analogWrite( LED_PIN, 0 ); // Turn the lamp off.
  }
}

void presentation( ) {
  // Send the Sketch Version Information to the Gateway. Domoticz seems to ignore this. Don't know about the other HA systems.
  sendSketchInfo(SN, SV);

  delay( 50 ); // It can't hurt to add some delay. It gives the gateway some time to handle other messagess

  // Present the dimmable lamp is a child node to the HA system. We'll enable ACK communication.
  present(CHILD_ID_LIGHT, S_DIMMER, "floor lamp", true );

  delay( 50 ); // It can't hurt to add some delay. It gives the gateway some time to handle other messagess

  request( CHILD_ID_LIGHT, V_PERCENTAGE ); // Request current dimvalue from HA. The current value is being handled in the incomming method.
  delay( 50 ); // It can't hurt to add some delay. It gives the gateway some time to handle other messagess
  
  request( CHILD_ID_LIGHT, V_STATUS ); // Request current lamp state from HA. The current value is being handled in the incomming method.
  delay( 50 ); // It can't hurt to add some delay. It gives the gateway some time to handle other messagess

}

// Main loop. Does twoe things. Handle gestures if detected by the interrupt routine. And give the MySensors lib the oppurtunity to handle incomming messages.
void loop() {
  if ( isr_flag == 1 ) {
    detachInterrupt(0);
    handleGesture();
    isr_flag = 0;
    attachInterrupt(0, interruptRoutine, FALLING);
  }
}

// interrupt handler. Is being triggered by the gesture sensor whenever a gesture has been detected. We've setup this up in the setup.
void interruptRoutine() {
  isr_flag = 1;
}

// Determine gesture and handle accordingly.We'll ignore FAR and NEAR gestures. Do didn't feel natural to me anyway.
void handleGesture() {
  if ( apds.isGestureAvailable() ) { // Check if there's a gesture available. Which should be, because the interrupt handler told us so.
    switch ( apds.readGesture() ) { // Get the gesture type.
      case DIR_UP: // Handle up stroke (Brightness increasing)
        if ( LastDimValue + BRIGHTNESS_INCREMENT > ( MAXDIMLEVELS - 1 ) ) {
          for ( int i = 0; i < MAX_LEVEL_REACHED_SIGNAL_COUNT; i++ ) {
            analogWrite( LED_PIN, dimlevels[ 0 ] );
            wait( MAX_LEVEL_REACHED_DELAY );
            analogWrite( LED_PIN, dimlevels[ MAXDIMLEVELS - 1 ] );
            wait(MAX_LEVEL_REACHED_DELAY );
          }
          LastDimValue = ( MAXDIMLEVELS - 1 );
        }
        else {
          LastDimValue += BRIGHTNESS_INCREMENT;
        }
        LastLightState = LIGHT_ON;
        SetCurrentState2Hardware();
        break;
      case DIR_DOWN: // Handle down stroke (Brightness decreasing)
        if ( LastDimValue - BRIGHTNESS_INCREMENT <= 0 ) {
          LastDimValue = 0;
        }
        else {
          LastDimValue -= BRIGHTNESS_INCREMENT;
        }
        if ( LastDimValue == 0 ) {
          LastLightState = LIGHT_OFF;
        }
        else {
          LastLightState = LIGHT_ON;
        }
        SetCurrentState2Hardware();
        break;
      case DIR_LEFT: // Handle left stroke. Turn lamp off
        LastLightState = LIGHT_OFF;
        SetCurrentState2Hardware();
        break;
      case DIR_RIGHT: // Handle right stroke. Turn lamp on
        LastLightState = LIGHT_ON;
        if ( LastDimValue == 0 ) { // @@Version 1.1 addition Slight modification. When the dimValue was 0, the light stayed off when turned on.
          LastDimValue = BRIGHTNESS_INCREMENT; // Just used the first Gesture dimming stage (2 times would be better for my taste though. Might change that in the future)
        }
        SetCurrentState2Hardware();
        break;
    }
  }
}

/**
   Handler for message send by the MySensor gateway.
*/
void receive(const MyMessage &message) {
  if ( message.type == V_LIGHT ) { // Gateway reports a new Light state
    int lstate = atoi( message.data );
    if ( ( lstate < 0 ) || ( lstate > 1 ) ) {
      return;
    }
    LastLightState = lstate;
    if ( ( LastLightState == LIGHT_ON ) && ( LastDimValue == 0 ) ) {
      //In the case that the Light State = On, but the dimmer value is zero, then something (probably the controller) did something wrong,
      //for the Dim value to 100%
      LastDimValue = 100;
    }

    //When receiving a V_LIGHT command we switch the light between OFF and the last received dimmer value
    //This means if you previously set the lights dimmer value to 50%, and turn the light ON
    //it will do so at 50%
  }
  else if (message.type == V_DIMMER) { // Gateway reports new dimmer level. We'l adjust it to the new value
    int dimvalue = atoi( message.data );
    if ( ( dimvalue < 0 ) || ( dimvalue > 100 ) ) {
      return;
    }
    if ( dimvalue == 0 ) {
      LastLightState = LIGHT_OFF;
    }
    else {
      LastLightState = LIGHT_ON;
      LastDimValue = dimvalue;
    }
  }
  //Here we'll set the actual light state/level
  SetCurrentState2Hardware();
}

// Send current values to the PWM controlled MOSFET
void SetCurrentState2Hardware() {
  if (LastLightState == LIGHT_OFF) {
    analogWrite( LED_PIN, dimlevels[0] );
  }
  else {
    analogWrite( LED_PIN, dimlevels[ LastDimValue - 1 ] );
  }

  //Send current state to the controller
  SendCurrentState2Controller();
}

// Report new values to the Gateway.
void SendCurrentState2Controller()
{
  if ((LastLightState == LIGHT_OFF) || (LastDimValue == 0)) {
    send(dimmerMsg.set(0));
  }
  else {
    send(dimmerMsg.set(LastDimValue));
  }
}

Note I didn't made any change to how the sketch functions. Some improvements can surely be done. But let's see if it works.

@APL2017 I bought a real expensive one at the time from sparkfun. Maybe that's a difference, because it was stable. I think some where in the back of my drawer I have some cheap Chinese ones. But I'm in the middle of 3 other builds xd. So not sure if I can hook them up real soon. But great you solved a problem.
I think the one I used original has no built in 3.3v regulator.

@Newzwaver d3 is called just 3 in the arduino IDE for atmel boards. Only the analog pins have an A suffix. But pin 14 is also A0.

Not sure if it answers your question. I'm on a lunch break

@halo6 I think what happens, is that the nodes reboot faster when the power comes back on. Then they try to connect and that fails because your Pi is still booting. Then they will have a time out before they reconnect. But it doesn't explain why you need to reboot the mysgw.service. It might be worth to check the log file to see if it gives any errors?

@tssk First things that comes to my mind is that you might draw too much power (but no expert) did you measure it?

@bcdaus my advise would be to try a larger capacitor. 100uf is working fine for me. Regarding to the differences in the projects. When I started out, 4.7uf was what most people used. But 10uf worked for all. If I'm not mistaking something has changed in the MS library years ago, which caused the radio to use a bit more power, but it made the communication better. So from that point on it is 100uf that most use. But not really sure if that is because of the change. As said I think I use 100uf for at least 4 years now.

If it still doesn't work I need the schematic and the sketch. It is hard to help you without those,

@bcdaus it's always difficult to discover what is wrong. But 9 out of 10 radio issues are always power related. I'm by no means an expert in electronics. But based upon what I learned in here, the capacitor values you use are too low. You say you tried 4.7uF and 0.1uF. But the value I use is a 100uf capacitor. And I think that is what is being promoted to use. I've used 10uf capacitors in the past, but I think that was before MS 2.0. 100uf hasn't given me any troubles.

I do notice sometimes, that sending multiple consecutive messages gives some troubles. So when I add a small delay in between it solves it. But I have to see your Sketch first to see if that might be a problem.

Also how do you power the radio, do you use a separate regulator, or do you take the 3.3V from the arduino?

In all honesty, I'm not quite convinced you'd need two separate networks. Just provide the security sensors, the repeaters, the gateway and your controller - that form the security system - with some sort of ups and they will keep running until the UPS has no more power left.
The none security devices will stop working when the power goes out and, unless I don't really understand your problem well. That does what I think you want to achieve? Unless you have combined a lot of sensors within a repeater it would really be my way to go. It wouldn't mean any modifications to your security hardware, because they need to be battery powered or have some sort of UPS anyway, to keep working when the power goes down.
But again it's hard to judge when you don't really understand the problem some one is trying to solve.

@APL2017 I think the gesture sensor is awesome. But just to switch things on and off. Because dimming with hand gestures is fun at the beginning, but I discovered I didn't use it much after a few months. To me most of my projects are just experiments on finding usable ways to interact with my house.
But there are some good use cases in where a gesture controller is the best switch you can imagine. Because it is contactless. Like in your garage when you are working on stuff like cars and get your hands dirty. You don't want to make you wall switches dirty.
Or in your kitching while cooking. But dimming with gesture is not very convenient. So I would set a max dimmer level of 5 or so.

@APL2017 Posting one question multiple times isn't gonna give you an answer quickly. I just wanted to say that.

I see the code on the website is still in pre MS 2.0. It should be easy to convert it to MS 2.0. The only problem is that I don't have the hardware setup to check if it works. If I can find some time this week I will convert it, so that it at least compiles. But I can not test it and can't promise I will finish it this week.

But @pjjarzembowski version should work, you should only strip out the extra sensors he attached to his node.

After playing with dimmers and Domoticz for quite some time, I've discovered that 15 brightness levels is all I need. Because it's hard to see the difference is brightness level if you have 100 levels. And also it takes a lot of gestures to move from max to min. So the code can be simplified more. By just mapping the Domotics level (1-100) to (1-15) and the opposite when you send the nodes brightness level to Domoticz.

Also Domoticz behaves odd when it comes to dimmer actuators as I discovered during a project I'm working on now. There are some work arounds for that, which envolve storing the brightness levels on the eeprom of your node. I know 100000 times is a lot. But I really don't see the need to store each brightness level change in the eeprom.

In all honesty mixing rfm69 and nrf24L01+, as @evb, suggests seems to me to be a way that isn't complicated and doesn't acquire any additional coding. I think I'd go that route

@skywatch I have looked at resin printers in the past. What's not so appealing is that I have to use chemicals. It is located in a guest bedroom, and even though the might be harmless. I don't think I want to go that route.

@evb thank you for your tips! I was already prepared that this will be a long journey lol. Because I read horror stories about people not being able to print at all.

@NeverDie I think you convinced me to go for the Prusa. I've been reading reviews and it is supposed to be one of the quietest printers. Which is a big plus.

I know you all say go for a bigger one, don't go for a smaller one. I will do some research and see what the footprints of bigger printers are. But if I can find a 3d shop nearby. I think I will stick to a smaller one. It's not that I'm building big robots lol.

@Snyfir Hello my friend,

I'm not the one who's deep into the Mysensors code. But I assume you have to either clone it from github and adjust the code. Which means you'll have to merge all fixes and changes yourself to your clone.
Or you have to implement your own repeater code. But not sure if that is possible. Because I don't think your sketch receives all the messages not intended for the node itself.

I'm not really sure why you'd want this. But I don't know the problem you're trying to solve. As I've always understood it. Each node would always try to connect to the gateway first. If that is not possible it will try to find a repeater.

So if your particular node can not reach the battery powered repeater. It will have no connection to the gateway at all I suppose.

What @BearWithBeard suggests might be an easier fix. But you have to be really sure your node can always contact the battery operated repeater.

@NeverDie Thanx for the quick reply

Well of course we all want to print the largest as possible. But for me it would be casings for my electronics projects. End as far as I've understood you can print them in separate parts and glue those together if needed. I also want to print some gears but that's all small stuff.

I see 3 versions of the ender 3:

• Ender 3
• Ender 3 v2
• Ender 3 pro

But I can not see what the big differences are. Would it be possible to add auto leveling later on?

And I think it's best to order the glass plate? There's a Dutch shop 1-2-3 3d printers. I was thinking about ordering it there. The difference between the 1-2-3 3d printer shop and amazon is over 50 euros. Would that be the difference in quality?

So after being absent for a long period, I'm almost done catching up. It is nice to see all the great projects every one has been working on. As I'm currently in the process of buying a 3d printer I'm just, gonna ask you all for advise. This topic is a little bit old, so maybe some new models have come out.

The things that are important to me, for choosing the right 3d printer are:

• Small foot print: The printer will be installed in my workshop, but that's also our guest bedroom and right now it is my office from which I do my work
• limited budget: I really don't have the budget for one that is over a 1000 dollars or more
• pre made: Unless the best alternative is one I have to assemble myself, I don't want to spend too much time on it. Because I'm pretty sure I'll have to invest a lot of time on learning how to design the casings I want to print out

As regarding to filament types, I have no experience in 3d printing. I'm just a real noob. I also came across octo print it's not a real must, but it would be nice to hookup octoprint to the printer. Any advise is more than welcome.

@BearWithBeard Well there are more things in play. Making assumptions now. Most people don't want to read the trouble shooting section, they just want to be helped quickly. And from a usability perspective written documentation isn't the most optimized form of transferring knowledge. Because it is almost impossible to write things in such a way every one can understand it. A simple comic on radio trouble shooting might help more people. But again, that is just assumptions.

I always try to find the solution myself. But have seen people asking question that were documented well. In this an other forums.

Just for the record. Using a lipo charger doesn't work as a ups. So if the battery is below a certain trashhold, and a circuit is connected to it. It will no recharge if the circuit draws over 600 ma (I believe that is for 5v. so I guess it's more for 3.3v). Andreas Spies posted a youtube video on this last Sunday. I'm keeping my eye on his progress. I think he will design a UPS for ESP and Atmel based boards.

Also design note: I use a rotary encoder as user input. It just gives a better UX for dimable lights. But - haven't measured - the rotary encoder seems to draw quite a lot of current. I read it could be up to 60ma. I have some of those magnet based encoders laying around. But not sure if I want to use one. They are quite expensive, so I have better projects in mind for those. But they draw just a couple of micro amps. An alternative could be to switch of the encoder circuit with a fet. But I need to experiment some more with this.

@skywatch I'm always willing to help with that. I love doing user research xd.