@hlehoux As I understand the limitation of the packet size is by the NRF radio. Maybe stop supporting NRF, so that we can get a bit bigger packet size. That would help my current project where I'm using MySensors as a transport layer. I know that is easier with wifi. But I want to use mysensors.
Never mind: If I hexify everything, I can squeeze in all I need so far.
@skywatch I don't like ESPs to be honest. Seems like a waste using a Wifi MCU for mysensors.
@skywatch I hope they will port to a new MCU. As the 328 is slowly becomming deprecated. I still enjoy and love MySensors, I can do things with it that is hard to do otherwise. Or you need an esp with Wifi. I don't want smart home wifi devices.
It might be me, but when I declare the receiveTime handler is stated in the documentation:
bool receiveTime(uint32_t ts);
I get an error. it should be:
void receiveTime(uint32_t ts) {
}
at least in the latest MySensors version
It has been taking over by CodeGarage to assure continuation
That is a well documented project. Much appreciated
@fsgraz Did some testing Today and my RFM range is over 80 meters node to node, with no long range antenna. That will be my next test, just waiting for a shipment from China to arrive. I did how ever notice an extreme improvement when I connected the gateway through a USB hub and then started to dig through the forum. @AWI once wrote about using an external PSU to power the long range NRF PA/LAN. I'll try that this weekend as connecting it to they USB port of my PI extended the range to 20 meters Node to Node.
@ejlane I use Easy Eda and that can't import Kicad xd, maybe the pro version can, but I will never trust that enough to install it on my Mac. And I did check out the open hardwarw link. The comments come back to here.
I want to make one small adjustment. I wanna change the sma to ipex, so I have more choices in where to mount the antenna. Personally not a fan of an antenna sticking out of the side of a case.
But I guess I have to install KiCad to figure out footprints and schematics.
@fsgraz I agree with you that to me MySensors is all but dead. I can do stuff with MySensors that would take me more devices when I'd go to Zigbee. And I don't want to use Wifi.
@fsgraz I have an SI7021 in all my nodes lol. For me it's sensors and lights. Not the ceiling light but the other lights. We actually never use the ceiling lights. And I control my garden with MySensors
@fsgraz I'm curious what you all have running on your network? I'm in the progress of updating and upgrading my stuff. The sensors I don't use like barometer I will remove. And I will swap from NRF24L01 to RFM69. Don't get me wrong the NRF works great, but the RMF69 gives my longer reach and as we might move to another house in the future, I want more reach for my nodes.
Kind of a lot response. But would you be able to post schematics and BOM. I was able to but one of the DFRobot Arduino's and I want to give it a try. Thanx in advance
Thank you for sharing. I have the same, sensors running for 10 years without any problem!
Maybe next summer the 10 years after party? I would still like to meet all of you guys in real person
@CodeGarage What I want is a lion powered Sensor if possible. And that in a case I can stick to the door frame. As I cannot screw or drill into the doorframe. But I have no idea how much current that draws.
@CodeGarage I guess I have a lot of research ahead )
@CodeGarage Bot sure what you mean with a proper design of Radon and Google translator didn't help much. I have a big renovation ahead. But after that I should have a 32 square meter hobby space. That one is the first project I'll be doing over there
@CodeGarage does it give many false positive or false negatives? I want to mount one under the porch at the frontside. Also did you post this project somewhere?
https://esphome.io/components/sensor/ld2420.html I believe the radar model they use is in that artical. It's pretty simple to use. If you preset the zones you get a trigger and read the zone. Not sure if an atmel is fast enough to keep up with the readings of the sensor. But they aren't expensive, they are actual very affordable and fun to play with
There are some new AI based radar nodes that can detect human presence even if a the body is not moving. They use an Serial protocol and should be simple tu use. You can setup alarms within several disctances. I'm still not sure if I want that kind of sensors in my house tbh. But it should be a one weekend project to get it up and running
Maybe I will mount one on my desk to control the lights. And one on the outside of my house, but I will not install many inside the house.
@Shirkit I agree. I have a lot of unifinished projects. Most of them still on breadboards. But as we will do a big reno on the house I need to finish them. Pretty sure I wouldn't be able to figure out how they worked if I store them in boxes during the reno. I have some light projects, A garden controller just an improved version of what was posted many years ago. And some more generic things that are probably not interesting to most people. And I also have a hub node the allows you to use cheap rf modules from AliExpress to control rooms very easy. I transformed a for channel remote module to a 15 button remote.
Without this site I wouldn't be able to keep making MySensors stuff
@OldSurferDude I always put some delays in my presentation part. That way my nodes don't perform a ddos on the gateway after powering up. But yeah curious how that goes what 254 nodes xd
I'm curious as well @NielBierman on the stuff you control and monitor over your network
@OldSurferDude @kiesel Look on open hardware if there's a pcb like that. If it has Gerbers then you can order them for cheap from manufacturers like JLPcb. You will get 5 for 2 euro + some shipment costs. If you guys live close to each other one can order and send one pcb to the other.
If none are available I can see if I can make you one. Although I use NRF myself. But I bet EasyEda will have a footprint for the rfm as well. I'll post it on open hardware so you guys can get the gerber files I you like.
For me almost all I need is in Master. For some nice to haves I have some custom libraries, like a message and a presentation queue. The only wish I have is dual led support.
You can change the channel, at least on the nrf24l01. Works for me. My test network has a different channel
I have mixed Nanos, Pro Minis, ESP8266 and Unos and no problem. I do however have mixed NRF24L01 and NRF24L01+ due to a bad AliExpress saler that stated he sold NRF24L01+ which in fact were not the + version. So I have set my baudrate on all nodes to 1mb.
In order to be helpful we need the log on the Uno.
@mfalkvidd I know xd. But it would be nice - if possible - if a newer version is supported. I'll post a project soon why I would like it.
@TheoL Although I'm curious what the latest supported version for an EsP8266 is. As some of the other libraries I use complain about the 2.6.2 version
@TheoL said in Can not compile MySensors on esp8266:
cont_can_yield' was not declared
Since the search function is broken it was hard to find it on mysensors forum. But google search helped https://forum.mysensors.org/topic/12066/no-lan-connection-esp8266-gateway/16?_=1724514129827
I wanted to dust off an old MySensors project that is running on an esp8266, but when I try uploading the Clear EEPROM sketch I get the following error:
In file included from Arduino/libraries/MySensors/MySensors.h:441,
from /private/var/folders/pm/z613mrwd6rx83wg51dx6jkfr0000gn/T/.arduinoIDE-unsaved2024724-45646-98sze5.cjzrw/ClearEepromConfig/ClearEepromConfig.ino:29:
Arduino/libraries/MySensors/hal/architecture/ESP8266/MyMainESP8266.cpp: In function 'bool can_yield()':
Arduino/libraries/MySensors/hal/architecture/ESP8266/MyMainESP8266.cpp:95:9: error: 'cont_can_yield' was not declared in this scope; did you mean 'can_yield'?
95 | return cont_can_yield(g_pcont);
| ^~~~~~~~~~~~~~
| can_yield
Arduino/libraries/MySensors/hal/architecture/ESP8266/MyMainESP8266.cpp: In function 'void esp_yield_within_cont()':
Arduino/libraries/MySensors/hal/architecture/ESP8266/MyMainESP8266.cpp:101:2: error: 'cont_yield' was not declared in this scope; did you mean 'can_yield'?
101 | cont_yield(g_pcont);
| ^~~~~~~~~~
| can_yield
Arduino/libraries/MySensors/hal/architecture/ESP8266/MyMainESP8266.cpp: In function 'void loop_task(ETSEvent*)':
Arduino/libraries/MySensors/hal/architecture/ESP8266/MyMainESP8266.cpp:199:26: error: invalid operands of types 'void' and 'int' to binary 'operator!='
199 | if (cont_check(g_pcont) != 0) {
| ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ^~ ~
| | |
| void int
exit status 1
Compilation error: exit status 1
As far as I can tell I'm running the latest MySensors version and the latest ESP board version. I'm running on Arduino 1.8.12 though, but that shouldn't matter?
Help much appreciated.
Depending what's connected to a relay, I wouldn't make it go on or off depending on the controller state. It can lead to dangerous behaviour and it's prohibited by law in my country.
In all honesty I have my Sensors running for a long long time. It's stable and more reliable than anything else I have running in my home.
But like @eiten says yo could write a sketch that queries for a variable. But I think I'd go for a controller side solution. That would "ping" my node and send a nottfication to my phone whenever the node can't be reached.
To my knowledge MySensors is a stateless connection, so you can not know when the connection is lost after the node has been initialized. Also when a node is connected to a repeater node, I was told you will get an ack from the repeater even if it fails to deliver the message.
I'm more curious to what you want to achieve, or what you've hooked up to that relay?
@monte I had a gut feeling about it, since dimmable led bulbs like trailing edge. I'll keep looking for a good 220v led bulb dimmer schematic.
As much as I love the 328 I think I should make the change to a different board 
for me they fit my needs as I try to keep the logic in my nodes as small as possible. I have one rule though: Manual first, for actuators my nodes need to support manual control.
Thanx for the schematics, I'll have a look at. Can you control led light bulbs with this schematics?
@monte do you have a schematis for that dimmer? If so I'm interested in it
@Kokosnoot good solution. I remember the discussion in the early days of MySensors. I've powered the radio's for most of my sensors from the 3.3v regulator on the arduino board and for me that works perfect. But for my latest designs I decided to add a separate ams regulator for my radio's like the guys suggested in the beginning. Because you basically want the on board regulator to power the mcu only.
@adds666 I'm not sure but I believe Domoticz prresents it's dimmer values in steps from 5 to 100 I believe. It'd about 10 steps. That's why I'm not sure if you can add more patterns. Unless you indeed change it to a percentage. Hope it helps
@pbw a gateway's function is to act as a gateway between the nodes and a controller. I don't think you will have all of the needed memory available to add logic to the gateway and you will make your solution very static.
You can implemented your own lightway controller, just have a look at the Serial API. But controllers like Domoticz are lightweight and the already over a browser based interface. And most of them are easy to setup creating a much more versatile and dynamic solution.
@DeepCore That is a need looking design. Did you consider using an alternative power supply other than usb? My Pi can't handle a lot of usb devices power wise, so I'm using a powered usb hub. But the wife doesn't like it, it's messy xd
@bach It does look really great! As far of resistor divers I'm not much fan of that. There are several other options, like a logic level converter circuit with FETs. If I have all 3.3V devices connected to an mcu I prefer to use a 3.3v mcu. Like an esp2866, but I'm still waiting until the irq support on the esp2866 gets available.
For me the nrf24's are still working great and I have a stacked up a lot lol. I'm however experimenting with the rfm's. As I need a bit more range to reach the end of my backyard.
It would be great to see some improvements added to MySensors lib. Like a good message Queue and stuff like that. Ways to get more state out of the lib so you can provide a bit more user feedback. Right now I have some of those in my own lib. When I have time I'll post some on this forum. So others might benefit.
But I'm currently hooked up to modular synths. Learning a lot of analog technology. Which broadens my Arduino horizon.
Hey all,
I wanna wish you all the best X-mas - I know it's a little but early - and I wish you all some awesome projects in 2022. I hope we can get a creative spirit in 2022 and create cool things together.
@perIpI I know for sure d3 and d4 can give troubles with interrupts. As it can prevent the ESP from being booted.
I recently created a Wemos Mini d1 node. That works without any problems. But I use NRF24L01.
What happens when you comment out #include <MySensors.h> ?? I assume it would run. But use Serial.begin( 115200); and Serial.println( "Test" ); in the setup
Maybe someone like @Yveaux can help
@perIpI not sure if it's the cause. But try disabling the interrupt. So disconnect d1 and remove the interrupt config.
@zboblamont That's what I love about my sensors. I created my own "SMART" lights, whit fairy light led strings. To provide sufficient light and are manual operable as long as they have power xd
Lately I have to turn off some of my Ikea lightbubles after each update of the gateway. As they are greyed out in the app. If you're not on time replacing the switch batteries, getting everything setup again is a nightmatr
I do use Inter For Things. Like wether prediction for watering the garden. But It's not bad if it misses one day.
@perIpI Something is causing your esp to reboot. To be able to help finding the cause, providing a wiring diagram and the sketch can help
reset causes:
The codes are :
0 -> normal startup by power on
1 -> hardware watch dog reset
2 -> software watch dog reset (From an exception)
3 -> software watch dog reset system_restart (Possibly unfed watchdog got angry)
4 -> soft restart (Possibly with a restart command)
5 -> wake up from deep-sleep
So it's in the code, as you get a software reset caused by an exception
@zboblamont I'd never have my house logic or my data in the cloud. Logic means you can't do much if you're internet is gone. And data, well I don't want all data like when I'm at home in the cloud :). But maybe I'm old fashioned
What I miss is the creativity. In the beginning everybody had crazy ideas and build awesome projects. I'd like to see that back xd
@Dizzwold This is not the right topic. And perhaps not the right forum. I think it's best to ask this in the candle forum
@Dizzwold Oh you're asking a lot of questions that are all about the candlelight project and not so much on mysensors lol. I know you can configure the raspberry to change the rotation of the screen. But it's something you have to google. As of the candle. I've never installed it. But I suggest you have a look at the log files?
@Jodaille Thanx for the link to the project. I think I'll order one of those sensors this weekend. As I hope it can also send the amount of rain that is falling.
I do have to check the optical sensor. But I really like the heating in the controlli sensor
@keczejo Finding the root cause is hard. Because you currently have no working device. If you have some spare try changing radios. Move the node further away from the gateway. And things like that.
@Nigel31 Maybe it's best to use the wait outside a while loop. With this I mean. Right now you're calling a function that does the resends within the same while loop - so basically it blocks the main loop. The only thing I can think of, is that MySensors doesn't get time to execute all it needs to do before you call the next request.
So if you'd rewrite the code a little bit so it does all the requests in different execution of the main loop() method. It might work much better. As I do it in a MessageQueue I've written and don't have the problems you have. Also sometimes it takes a while before a node starts using the repeater. If it's close enough to the gateway to get some responses. Than - if understand correctly - it will not start using the repeater until the repeater sees x-time of failures.
@Dizzwold Not sure if I understand your question correctly. As PI's have multiple USB ports it doesn't matter which one you use. So I'd say use any of the available USB ports. But some how I have the feeling you have a different question
@keczejo Not sure what the W5100 takes for power. I'd try to power the NRF on the gateway with a power regulator.
Also if you disconnect the W5100 and set the getway up as a serial gateway, will it be able to find the parent? I'd try that as a first step
@keczejo Could you please post the code and if it's not too hard the schematics. It makes it easier to help you find the problem.
I have 2 fairy lights led dimmer approximately 2 - 3 meters from the node. But so far no problem with them. I upgraded to the latest recently and discovered that adding this config line solved my problems. Apparently I didn't have the good quality NRF radio's but this line solved it for me:
#define MY_RADIO_RF24
#define MY_RF24_DATARATE RF24_1MBPS // see (https://forum.mysensors.org/topic/4631/nrf24l01-can-t-find-parent-on-gateway/7)
Needs to be on all nodes and Gateway
@keczejo what's the distance between the node and the gateway?
@Jodaille The buckets are nice for measuring the amount of rain that has fallen over a period. But with light rains changes are the bucket won't tip. The normal rain sensors are useful for closing sun screens when it rains. Because they will always give a signal when it rains. Regarding the amount of rain that is falling.
For the weather sensors I use an Alecto one. I can connect it Domoticz using an RFXtrx433E transceiver. But it's still on my bucket list to replace all of those with a mysensor version. For the wind direction and speed I'll be using a AMS AS5600 since they are very precise and don't need interrupts. So I can use one arduino for the complete weather station.
But currently a real rain sensor is higher on my todo list, as we will get a new motorized sunscreen xd
Did any one ever experimented with this rain sensor https://www.radiomodules.eu/en/component/62/capacitive-rain-sensor?
It doesn't oxidize like the normal rain sensors and has a builtin temperature sensor and heater. The heating seems like a good thing for during the winters. So you can melt away any snow. Although I assume you have to turn it on whenever you measure any rain, so the water can vaporize. Because I think that might give a false positive. But that would be something to test.
On the product site there's also the schematics for an Arduino Uno Shield and a sketch you can upload to operate the Sensor. I didn't have time yet to check those out.
I think the sensor is also used in a lot in the more expensive commercial rain sensors. Although they only trigger a rain detection signal not the amount of falling rain. According to the production site, you should also be able to detect the amount of rain, which is indicated by the capacitance you measure on the sensor.
I'm pretty sure Kemo uses this sensor in their product.
The RC-SPC1K seems like a decent sensor for rain detection. But I can't find many Arduino projects. So wondering if any one of you has any experience with this sensor. Because a commercially available solution costs 50 euro. Although the sensor itself also costs 18 euros, 9 for the sensor and 9 shipping costs. And you still need some components - opto coupler and resistor - to hook it up to the Arduino and a water resistant casing.
I can imagine more projects then only a rain sensor for closing the sunscreens. Maybe something like a small water basin for birds during those hot summer days, that gets refilled when it's empty.
@raptorjr said in Glowing/pulsing yellow LED?:
MKRNB 1500
It helps if you post a wiring diagram and a sketch.
I actually created a message queue for this. It will go on retry when it gets a didn't reach parent. So I know when the communication is gone. I'll add a communication up event to it. And I should be done. I won't know it it reaches the gateway. But I can add a visual indicator for when the repeater is out. That's sufficient for me.
While we're at this topic. Does any one know what the NRF24L01+ does with it's interrupt pin? I'd like to hook it up to the other pin - d4 in this case. Does it pull high when there's a new message or is it pulled up by default? Which I hope
It's something I'm looking for as well
Hi all,
Recently I started to experiment with the Wemos D1 mini as a MySensors node, with a NRF24L01+ radio. As most wouldn't go this route, since it has built in WiFi. I did, because for one WiFi was not available for the particular node I'm developing. And second I don't really like my HA to run on WiFi. There are many reasons I have for this. But my main concern is the amount of time it takes to reconfigure all your nodes when the ssid and or password on your router have changed. But let's not start a topic on this. In this topic I just wanted to share some tips and tricks I discovered which some were hard to find on the internet and others I came up with my own solution. I'll keep adding tips and tricks to this topic if I discover new ones.
The Mini D1 doesn't like it when you declare an interrupt handler like you'd normally do.
volatile bool interruptReceived= false;
void handleInterrupt() {
interruptReceived = true;
}
If you're lucky it compiles. But it will not work. You'll receive a strange bootloader error and the Mini will not boot. The reason for this is that the Mini expects handlers to be stored in the IRAM space. Just add a compiler directive and your interrupt handler will work just fine.
volatile bool interruptReceived= false;
ICACHE_RAM_ATTR void handleInterrupt() {
interruptReceived = true;
}
void setup() {
pinMode( interruptPin, INPUT_PULLUP );
attachInterrupt(digitalPinToInterrupt( interruptPin ), handleInterrupt, FALLING );
Be carefull with using interrupts on D3 and D4
So the ESP2866 does a lot of funky things during bootup. It will pull some pins HIGH and LOW to check if it should go into program mode or not. It probably uses it for more reasons, but I'm by no means an ESP expert. The D3 and D4 pins are pulled up high by the Esp, with a - I believe - 10K resistor. Whenever you connect anything to it, that will cause these pins to be high during booting, the Wemos will not finish the boot mode and your sketch is never loaded.
I wanted to attach an MCP23017 port extender to my Wemos and use the interrupt to refresh the values. So I didn't need to poll the MCP23017 all of the time and kept CPU time available for other tasks. The problem with this, is that the MCP23017 pulls it's interrupt pin HIGH when there's no interrupt - which is always the case when the chip power's up. So connecting the interrupt pin to D3 or D4 caused my Mini D1 to not exit boot mode.
I could have simply used D3 and D4 as SDA and SCL pins for the I2c communications and use D1 and D2 as interrupt pins. But not all libraries like that. So the easiest way to get around it was a simple and cheap hardware solution. I connected a diode (doesn't matter which one you take. Just take a low 1N400x one) and that did the following:
The HIGH value of the MCP's interrupt pin is blocked by the diode. When the MCP pulls the interrupt pin low current can flow between the interrupt pin (INPUT_PULLUP) on the Wemos Mini and the MCP's interrupt pin. This made sure the MCP is never able to pull the pin on the Mini high. And the problem was actually solved - easy peasy. I can use D3 and D4 as interrupt pins.
Here's the schematic. In my case I use the mirror mode on the MCP's interrupts. So I only need to connect one of the MCP23017's interrupt pins to the Wemos.
I also run the MCP23017 on 3.3V so it's the same as the Wemos mini.
Looks awesome. Might be fun to put it outside before your front door on 31th October. Still have a Halloween project on my ever growing bucketlist xd
Blynk is awesome for controlling Halloween projects.
Also posting the wiring helps others to help you. Fitzing is easy for this task
What type of relay are you using? You can only use one with opto couplers. You can regonise it, because it has a vcc and a jd-vcc pin. Power the jd-vcc with 5v and vcc with 3v. The vcc is for TTL lvl control and the jd-vcc powers the 5v relay. Without this version you can not hook up a relay to a 3.3v microcontroller. Because the high state is barely high enough to drive a normal 5v relay
@anderBAKE Be careful to which pin you hook up the relay. Most Mini D1 pins are shortly being pulled up during boot up. That short spike can damage the device you've connected to the relay. It's why I avoid using the Wemos D1 mini with relays. I believe d0 is one of the pins that's not being pulled high during boot up - but not sure.
@mfalkvidd I'm in an older version I discovered. Ran across more small differences.
Not sure if it ever has mentioned before, but the first example contains
// Enable and select radio type attached
#define MY_RADIO_RF24
Which results in a compile error
MySensors.h:287:4: error: #error No forward link or gateway feature activated. This means nowhere to send messages! Pretty pointless.
#error No forward link or gateway feature activated. This means nowhere to send messages! Pretty pointless.
It should be:
// Enable and select radio type attached
#define MY_RADIO_NRF24
And then it compiles and works
@chbarg In all honesty, I think ZigBee is much older than mySensors. It's a pretty old standard. But it was very expensive to use, but since Philips and Ikea used it in their smart lightning it has become very cheap. Zigbee is used in commercial products, whereas my Sensors is just a nice and - more reliable - option for those who like to build their own stuff. I say more reliable, because the Ikea stuff I use is not always available. At least I have troubles with it. Also the batteries in the remotes drain really fast. Specially when attached to the gateway and night directly to a device
@feanor-anglin it really looks very interesting to me. And if I'd renovate my house or bought a new house. I'd go for wired for sure. I'm running my sensors with NRF24L01+ for over 7 years now. And I actually didn't notice any problem. It's very reliable, but I admit the radio is very picky on it's power. Most problems I ran into where all power related.
Why I've been absent for a long time has several personal reasons. I needed to finish a study I was following next to my job. And after I finished it I had some health issues. And when I decided to get back into it. My dad passed away. We're now cleaning out his workshop, he earned his living as an electronics repair man. I'm keeping the stuff I can use, like the Fluke meters - although they are 20 years old they still work good - his lab power supply and stuff like that. It's also to moment to redo my own workshop. Because the organization was completely lost. I ordered a lot of parts the last years but never took the time to store them.
So hopefully this will al be done and I can finally finish some of the projects that are laying on my desk for years
@monte We must have a conversation in a chat or something. to me Ikea is not usable at all. Usable meaning effictive, efficient and looking good.
@monte As a UX designer I dare to differ. HA anno 2021 is overly complicated. No one needs to know how to wire a light fixture. You just change the light bulb when it's broken. Or if in some cases hire an electrician.
I believe I can design things much much simpler. And make it usable.
@NeverDie I'm actually looking for a team backend and frontend to help me reinvent home automation. And give it back to all people, not only the technical ones. I've done quiet a lot of pocs to test me ideas. Preferably Python back end, so I can do some help in coding xd
Current HA systems are difficult. In comparison to the real world, it means that when you want to change a light bulb, you have to completely rewire the fixture in which the lightbulb you wanted to replace was in.
I think it's too complicated ^^
To me it is a lack of time. Still have tons of projects not finished. Right now really focused more on making the whole eco system Usable. As far as I can tell not one single HA system is usable for a mere mortal. It's either centered around a mobile phone, which is a no-no for me. It's not reliable in terms of battery can be low while you want to turn something on or off and the screen is too small for eco systems that cover an entire house. And when they're not centered around a mobile phone everything is glued together with scripts. It's all too complicated. I think I can make it more simple xd
@Thomas433 The 5V version can run on 16Mhz the 3.3V max is 8Mhz. This will infect the amount of traffic it can handle. I use an Arduino Uno for at least 5 years and it never failed. An arduino Nano will also work. The nano and uno have a 3.3v regulator on board which makes powering the radio easier you don't need to add an power regulator. Not sure why you need the logic level converters though
I've been experimenting with PCB design the last few weeks. I'm currently using an Arduino Uno as my Gateway with everything mounted on a breadboard and dupont cables. As it doesn't have the waf factor I promised my better half to make a nice enclosure for it, but for that I had to create a shield. This one is for my NRF24L01+ network. My latest sensors all work on RFM96 with the MySensors Gateway. But as you can order it almost fully mounted I think it's a nice entrance level solution for those who want to start with MySensors without having all the problems I've seen on this forum. You simple mount the shield - maybe solder the radio - upload the code and you're got to go in 10 - 20 minutes.
@skywatch my 50 cents is that you might want to achieve to much. Having 2 different networks is not a problem. But one device in 2 networks, not sure if it will solve your problem.
@skywatch It would by much easier to share sensors on different controllers between controllers.
Controller A is the master, controller B receives updates. Domoticz supports this. Don't know about the others
How ever powering from usb is not very stable. When sending multiple messages with delays my sketch sometimes stalls. Need to test with the suggested 6v power supply though. But most nodes don't need to send multiple messages quickly
@Yveaux I also add the delay to not ddos the gateway. When I did the MySensors workshop, 20 people started to connect to the gateway almost at the same time. And they got Funky messages. Since then I do a delay. But it would probably be better to add a random time to the delay. Something like 20ms + random( 0 - 30 ) ms. That way you don't get the ddos effect. Sonoff had the same problems with their solution a couple of years ago, when the servers went down. All Sonoff devices tried to reconnect almost the at the same time. Which caused a ddos xd
Not sure if it helps. But chrome changed things for CORS. If the CURS headers aren't set correctly you can not use a rest api anymore.
@tssk I use a threshold. I measure every 30 - 60 seconds. If a change goes pass the threshold I report immediately. Else I report periodically. I think I've created a small lib for that some years ago
@Anticimex Don't think they use have encryption. It's just not powerful enough for that
@Melih-Kulig Don't forget to order some 100uf capacitors, if you don't have them. It helps getting the NRF24L01+ working smoothly
It's called a flyback diode. And probably most won't use it on a reed switch. I've discovered that if I open and close a reed switch fast. It sometimes caused my arduino to reset. Since then I use a flyback per read sensor. This occured when I was building a wind speed sensor.
But I'm more a software guy. The hardware specialists can help you much more with this.
I have a very old gateway. I believe it's still on MySensors 1.5 - but nor sure. It's just an Arduino Uno, which is connected to through USB to a Raspberry PI running Domoticz. All nodes have a NRF24L01+ radio. For me that works perfect. I have no issues with the setup.
What does the debug show in your serial monitor?
@Melih-Kulig I can't help you with Home Assistant. I use Domoticz. But in domoticz a Sensor only appears after it has send a value to domoticz. So you could try top open and close one the read sensors just to check if that works for you as well.
Don't forget to use protective diodes (sorry forget the English names) in each reed sensor. Not doing it could damage your Arduino mega.
Personally I'd split the sensors over multiple nodes. Right now no sensor will work if there's a problem with the arduino or when it's not powered. Using multiples will only result in some not working when there's a problem with on of your Arduinos
@Melih-Kulig for your for loops in presentation and the loop I'd change some things. right now you are accessing array elements that are out of the array bounds. I don't have much time but the general idea would be:
for (byte i = 0; i < 22; i++) { // access all 22 elements
present(i, S_DOOR);
}
The i is good for accessing the array. The only thing where you want something to change is where you access a pin:
void setup() {
for (byte i = 0; i <22 i++) {
debouncer[ i ] = Bounce();
oldValue[ i = -1;
// Setup the button
pinMode( i + 22, INPUT_PULLUP);// <---- here you want add 22 as the pin offset
// After setting up the button, setup debouncer
debouncer[ i ].attach( i + 22 ); // <---- here you want add 22 as the pin offset
debouncer[ i ].interval(5);
}
}
This way you don't go out of the bounds. And only for the pins you need to add the offset. For the rest off the code the way I propose makes it much more easy to read.
Hope it makes sense
I'm sure you have a good reason for hooking up that many devices. Just wanted to point out that the soft debounce is kind of tricky. Since it's blocking your code for 32 * 5 ms. Which is pretty long for a micro controller.
Also curious how you get that many pins? Which board are you using?
Bounce debouncer[32];
int oldValue[32];
MyMessage msg[32];
void setup() {
for (byte i = 22; i <= 54; i++) {
debouncer[i] = Bounce();
oldValue[i] = -1;
}
for (byte i = 22; i <= 54; i++) {
pinMode(i, INPUT);
digitalWrite(i, HIGH);
debouncer[i].attach(i);
debouncer[i].interval(5);
}
}
You have a possible memory allocation problems with this part. The index of the first element in an array is always 0. You start at index 22 and end at 54. And the two for loops could be combined.
like so.
Bounce debouncer[32];
int oldValue[32];
MyMessage msg[32];
void setup() {
for (byte i = 22; i <= 54; i++) { // I assume you start at 22 for an offset
debouncer[i - 22 ] = Bounce();
oldValue[ i - 22] = -1;
pinMode( i, INPUT); // <------ pin 22? That one is not available on any uno, nano or micro
digitalWrite( i, HIGH); // <--- I think you want to use INPUT_PULLUP in the pinMode
debouncer[i - 22].attach(i);
debouncer[i - 22].interval(5);
}
}
All I did was fixing the wrong Array indexes. Maybe it's a good idea to post a wiring diagram of how you attach things. I might be able to help you more
I also think you want to use () instead of []
msg[i].setSensor[i]; // <--- you are trying to call an element of the array setSensor
msg[i].setType[V_TRIPPED]; // <--- same, calling an aray
These are functions and functions use ()
msg[i].setSensor( i );
msg[i].setType( V_TRIPPED );
@Njwyborn my guess would by, if you can program an MCU via the Arduino IDE it should be supported. Of course the ones with smaller ram and heap might lack resources. But other than that they should all work.
Not sure if you guys watch or follow Kevin Darrah on YouTube but he found a way to clone the flash of the ESP, including wifi settings.
How To Read from ESP32 - CLONE/BACKUP Everything
He promised to post a follow up, with how to decrypt your flash.
So I know a lot of people switched over to Tasmota and other ESP enabled solution. Just wanted to share my experience of Today and couldn't really find another topic.
As of Today I finally have fiber glass internet. Something I looked forward to and feared at the same time. I was looking forward to the speed. But not in getting everything working with a new router. I'll keep it short.
Now imagine of you have a dozen of ESP as sensors or actuators. And the new router would not have copied the SSID and password? Then I would manually have to set the new ssid and password for each ESP. When I realized this, it came to me how simple MySensors is in use. Thankful that I discovered it. And thankful to you all for creating this great sensors network