Topics created by TheoL

@TheoL there are two pull requests adding support for newer versions. One is guaranteed to break again. One should not break in the future, but will instead break all existing sketches. I’m sure a third option would be welcome if you write the code and submit.

Merry x-mas (late)

@Jodaille Thanx for the link to the project. I think I'll order one of those sensors this weekend. As I hope it can also send the amount of rain that is falling. I do have to check the optical sensor. But I really like the heating in the controlli sensor

While we're at this topic. Does any one know what the NRF24L01+ does with it's interrupt pin? I'd like to hook it up to the other pin - d4 in this case. Does it pull high when there's a new message or is it pulled up by default? Which I hope

@skywatch not really, depending on the algorithm

Just for the record. Using a lipo charger doesn't work as a ups. So if the battery is below a certain trashhold, and a circuit is connected to it. It will no recharge if the circuit draws over 600 ma (I believe that is for 5v. so I guess it's more for 3.3v). Andreas Spies posted a youtube video on this last Sunday. I'm keeping my eye on his progress. I think he will design a UPS for ESP and Atmel based boards. Also design note: I use a rotary encoder as user input. It just gives a better UX for dimable lights. But - haven't measured - the rotary encoder seems to draw quite a lot of current. I read it could be up to 60ma. I have some of those magnet based encoders laying around. But not sure if I want to use one. They are quite expensive, so I have better projects in mind for those. But they draw just a couple of micro amps. An alternative could be to switch of the encoder circuit with a fet. But I need to experiment some more with this.

Wow, this is amazing! Also: congratulations!

I completely agree. I am having a hell of a time getting mine to work at its to the point where I'm searching for an alternative to mysensors. This post should be in the main page regarding setup. I have wasted hours trying to figure this out.

@Theol I like the way you're thinking, trying to make things affordable easing coding life for noobs, not so easy task. Imho I prefer non blocking stuff too, state machine like. I think this is really the way to think for a machine, IOT. I think this is kind of education..more mcu programming related. A very basic state machine just needs few "If" and/or "switch case". Often, people don't know theyr're doing a state machine I mean the basics of course, because you can use function pointers etc which are more advanced, use more mem etc..I choose function pointers or "If/switch" depending of the context but looks better with pointers. I hope I don't say dumb things or Yveaux will correct me Ideally, very basic and important stuff a newbie need to learn for playing with a MCU, then with Mysensors, would be: to understand why there is no "multitask" regarding how an mcu works. and irq, priority and pullup/downs.. a bit of algo and arduino reference.. Sure Mysensors looks easy to use. And that's true But if people think they don't need to learn this, even with multiple override, they will be limited, with more bugs, and more questions.. Then, of course, newbie would be happy to have done something, so he shares (thx). And an other noob comes, takes the sketch and share etc. finally where's quality.. I have rarely seen this (about delay) when i was learning from microchip community though And that's what I thought first time I saw arduino community! What this..so much people are using delay here! I will have to write my things from scratch, I can't trust, I will have not time to check everything..damn! Hopefully that's not completely true! Have they read some reference before starting? With all resources from arduino, I think there is no excuse Led blinking without delays etc.. Hmm, a bit philosophical..Vulgarisation, mastering I understand main Mysensors goals. Why not a graphical ui in place, which would use "blocks" instead of code? I'm always interested with your stuff @Theol and will keep an eye on this too

I'm interested in organizing a workshop

@bjacobse Yes, wdt business can be quite confusing Optiboot has a sophisticated wdt approach: wdt is only enabled if the MCU is reset externally (this is the case when you upload a new sketch from the IDE), in all other reset cases (i.e. watchdog-, brownout- and power-on reset), the wdt is disabled and optiboot directly hands over to the sketch. See here for the conditions: https://github.com/Optiboot/optiboot/blob/master/optiboot/bootloaders/optiboot/optiboot.c#L484-L485 And here it gets disabled: https://github.com/Optiboot/optiboot/blob/master/optiboot/bootloaders/optiboot/optiboot.c#L847 This also means that with optiboot, wdt is always disabled when the sketch starts (if WDON fuse is unset). And to give a heads up for the MYSBootloader 1.3 release: wdt will be on by default (at the moment 4s), and the user has to either disable or reset it in the sketch. This is a safety mechanism and the only way to remotely recover from a bad/faulty FW.

@donnacarter0103 The third way to reset an Arduino is to use watchdog (Need to flash another bootloader as the default have disabled watchdog), enable watchdog, and remember to reset it often in your code, else it will reste the Arduino

@mfalkvidd Thanx for the quick reply and the example. It's exactly what I was I was looking for. I just overlooked the union definition in Message.h. I'm currently sending the message to the Node itself as a test. But event that that works.

http://www.jeremyblum.com/2011/03/07/arduino-tutorial-10-interrupts-and-hardware-debouncing/ I followed this tutorial and it works flawlessly http://www.jeremyblum.com/2011/03/07/arduino-tutorial-10-interrupts-and-hardware-debouncing/

@AWI Thanx for your quick reply. I already had a gut feeling that Domoticz doesn''t handle it. nd you're right the String in Arduino C++ isn't the best option. But since Domoticz ignores it I can leave it out anyway.

I just realized that the site is also available in English. The book itself seems to be available in English. But I don't see a link to an english youtube channel.

@dbemowsk Relevant and good quality information. I fully understand what has to be done. Now I have no excuse to at least test a drive ... Thanks

There is already another thread about this device -> http://forum.mysensors.org/topic/3639/the-aaduino

@TheoL said: The question is, why is the LD33V stabilizing the circuit. I'd like to know why, so that I can learn from this. A little late and OT, but I think this makes sense. I'm often in favour of wasting some power as a simple way to gain some PSRR.

@TheoL the sensebender is runing on 8Mhz as default. Originally I made so that it could switch to 1Mhz in order to lower the current consumption. But since we are sleeping for 99% of the time, where it's only the watchdog timer that is running, I don't see that much of a power savings running at 1Mhz, compared to 8Mhz. In theory if running on 1Mhz the awaken time is also 8 times longer, than when it's running on 8Mhz.. So that can also contribute to a more "equal" power consumption. So in short.. Compile for 8Mhz

Looking at it more closely, I noticed that TI's design is meant to is to attach directly to the optical chamber of the Sharp Microelectronics optical dust sensor (part number: GP2Y1010AU0F).

see also http://forum.mysensors.org/topic/2680/data-stored-in-the-eeprom

@mfalkvidd thank you for the link. I found an Arduino mega for around 13 euro. It's worth to try that.

@mfalkvidd at the moment only the muting state of the doorbell chime. But once my digital potentionometer arrives I'll be sending a volume level as well. Update: I also want to trigger to chime remotely. My thinking is that I can solder a second one (but without switch) as a doorbell extender. I can mount that one in my living room.

@TheoL if one day you want to try ota+authentication on breadboard or add it to an existing node.. https://www.openhardware.io/view/18/OTA-and-Authentication-Evaluation-Board

@TheoL said: of course I will wait. Thank you for your ideas. they are very useful.

@Yveaux I'm fortunate enough that my emloyee pays the entrance fee. Members of nljug get a discounts though.

@hek said: Using something like this: https://www.sparkfun.com/products/retired/9185 Unfortunately seems to be retired. Found something similar on Aliexpress: http://www.aliexpress.com/item/2pcs-lot-Power-Line-Carrier-Communication-Module-DC-Carrier-Module-Zero-Send-High-Speed-Carrier/32265367729.html?spm=2114.30010308.3.10.xjeFn1&ws_ab_test=searchweb201556_3,searchweb201644_2_505_506_503_504_301_502_10001_10002_10016_10005_10006_10003_10004_401,searchweb201560_5,searchweb1451318400_-1,searchweb1451318411_6448&btsid=52fdb576-0ad1-4067-b448-e3214250cc3e

@mfalkvidd Thank you. I just remembered I would have had a 4th option. Using a ATtiny85 to transmit the IR-code. But I haven't really digged into the ATtiny85 it's still on my wishlist. I could have programmed the ATtiny85 to listen to a digital input and let it fire the IR code on an interrupt, let's say if the pin is lowering (should work in theory if you use an internal pullup)

No clue

@TheoL, there is no right or wrong way to implement a project. Having it a standalone device is a must for you it seems, however i would have it connected to your home automation controller to literally just display status' of the alarm and then you could have other nodes actuate/complete actions depending on if your alarm clock is/isn't at home and more specifically, is/isn't set to wake you. You could have a automated socket or a automated coffee machine or even lights depending on the status of you alarm. Example below: IF the alarm is at home AND armed to wake you, THEN turn on lights to 10%/20%/30%/40% --> 100% 10mins/9mins/8mins/7mins/6mins/etc before your alarm is due to go off, allowing you to wake up to a perfectly light room (not too bright to shock your eyes/system) or even have your coffee machine start brewing 2 minutes before your alarm activates.... Again, that would just be my suggestion. Doing this ALONGSIDE of having it a standalone machine would not affect anything if you left the house.

I've recently modified the code a bit. Will post an update soon. The way a PIR motion sensor works, is that you can setup the duration of a detected movement by tweaking a potentionometer. That will determine the amount of time the PIR sensor will report back as a motion detection. In reality you know only one thing. There was at least one motion detected that triggered the motion pin of the PIR sensor. Between that period and that and the interval you've setup, there might have been a lot of movement but the PIR doesn't report that back. How I solved that is as follows. I turned the potentionometer to the lowest must interval duration. Whenever the first movement has been detected, it will report that to my Home Automation controller and it will start a timer that is 30 seconds after the detected motion. As my current motion detection interval of the PIR sensor is around 3 seconds, it will give me another 27 seconds to detect a follow up motion. If a follow up motion has been detected, it will reset the 30 second timer. So that has another 27 seconds the time to detect another motion. If however no motion has been detected when the 30 seconds timer times out, it will tell my home automation controller that there's no longer any motion. As most PIR sensors are quiet sensitive, they detect my presence by each small movement a wake. In most cases the movement caused by breathing is enough for the PIR sensor to detect my presence. Hope's this explains is. I've tried it in my best English

For anyone whois interested in how I mounted the electronics into the lamp. I posted an article about this on my blog http://www.houtbewerken-voor-dummies.com/grenzen-verleggen-een-moodlight/ it's in Dutch but you can translate this with google translator.

@Zeph and @rvendrame thanx for claryfing things. I'll just have to build up a test circuit on a breadboard. I'll start with adding the 2.2 uf as specified in the datasheet and keep the radio wires short and will see from there. The specs of the LE33 are very promising, so I'm hoping to get this to work. At the moment I've setup a lot of sensors on breadboards. The 4.7 uf cap is 20cm away from the radio, but no problems so far.

btw. This sleep time, is independent of the oscillator used to run the MCU (8Mhz / 1Mhz). As the watchdog has it's own oscillator.

Hello again I've attached a version which show/demonstrates the problem I have when using Timer1.attachInterrupt(dim_check, freqStep);. I'm using a Veralite and simple pro mini arduino to controll 2x SSR and 2x Triac dimmers. I use a structured array to hole the various valus for the lamps. When I upload a version of this attached code with Timer1.attachInterrupt(dim_check, freqStep);commented out - the SSR's work fine. When I uncomment the one line in the code the is no response to the Vera's command to switch on a SSR lamp. As you can see the interrupt routine is extremely short - nothing but the call. I wonder if someone else might have any idea or have run into this problem before.. The interrupt is to occur every 75uS so as to allow 128 steps of dimming.Timer1Testing.ino

The library which @tomkxy posted works great for 8mhz processors. I have let it run for more than 24 hours without receiving a single timeout or checksum failure.

Use the + version on the gateway

@TheoL said: Thank you everyone for your replies. I'm currently using Domoticz with Razberry. And that works okay. But when I define scene's and activate them, it takes sometimes a couple of seconds for each switch to go off or on accordingly to the scene. I read on this forum that most Vera users are happy with it. So I was thinking that I might switch over to Vera. But if I'm not mistaken I should go for a more expensive model? I'm also very curious if I can hook up OpenHAB to Vera. Because OpenHAB has some features which I also like ;). I have been a Vera user , all flavors , for more than 8 years now, I have tried Ui1.5.x.x and UI7.x.x ,I have tried the Vera Edge with approx 40 sensors and modules and using PLEG for controlling most all aspects of the Home automation. I found the Vera Edge could not handle all the Automation, tech support worked with me for 3 weeks to try to get the Edge to cooperate . I finally sent it back to where I bought the Unit. I changed over to my Veralite and my Vera3 and split the work up between the 2 controllers. I run Mysensor Ethernet Gateway on both of my controllers, 1 gateway for 2 Veras. I have Zwave motion sensors,Zwave modules, Zwave dimmer modules, Zwave Honeywell Thermostat and Temperature and Humid sensors that are Zwave. I have Mysensor door/window sensor built with Attiny 85, so much cheaper to build than using Nano or Pro-Mini I also have Scene controllers built with pro-Mini that control ceiling fans remotely, bedroom lights remotely, Entertainment Centers remotely. You get the Idea. Now nothing is perfect I have had my glitches but for FREE their is no other controller I will use , unless someone comes up with one as reliable and cost effect as MCV. This is my 2 cents worth.