this kind of optic fiber is probably only plastic so for a full DIY , you can use also fishing wire with a big power led or an old chistmass tree optic fiber lighted.....
@yoonie said:
For the pro mini version, should i create another Openhardware project, or should i put it here, in the already existing project?
Might be better to create a new project as they uses a different set of design files.
Hello Tilman, this is really a very nice design. I have ordered a pack of PCBs from elecrow, based on your gerber files, and have a few questions:
in your BOM you have listed 5 smd-capacitors and 7 smd resistors, but on the PCB i have solderpads for 6 capacitors and 8 resistors. Can you just explain?
is there a uniflächentaster-model for 2 ways?
i think i have to flash the bootloader first, do you have a tutorial for this, and a sample-sketch for the board?
Thank you very much
I hate to disappoint you @micah but @Mike-Musskopf has got a point:
MQ* sensors are power hungry. You may want to connect everything up to 240V via a small PSU. There is a big thread on mysensors about air quality detection.
DHT is not the best sensor for a battery application. Please check BME280 (pressure, temp and hum) or Si7021 (temp and hum) - these would be my favourite sensors for low power consumption.
Small tip - your Arduino Pros must be 3.3V and not 5V for the battery usage.
Hi,
nice projet. I am very interested in it.
But why you are using 5 V and not 3.3 V? The ATmea328 works with 3.3 V too and the NRF have to use 3.3 V.
The only restriction on 3.3 V is the clock limitation for the Atmega (8 MHz). But with no crystal it don't care.
For example you could use an HLK-PM03 instead of HLK-PM01 and remove the linear voltage regulator. So you get more space an everything have the same voltage level.
And another point is, it is recommended to use a capacitor (0.1 µF) to ground for each voltage pin (Vcc, Avcc, Aref).
