@Jonathan-Roberts said in Simple AC/DC Switch WeMos:
@nca78 bummer. So I think 2 options...
What if the Wemos is raised off the PCB. That would be almost 5/8". In your experience would that help?
And maybe the best option, slide the antenna module straight down,. move the relay up and spin it around so the connections are on the outside edge.
I'm trying to make this multi-purpose and allowing both headers to be fully functional to other projects. thx for the advise.
1 would help but not that much. It's already not a good thing to have the transformer just next to it on the side, so you should avoid blocking one more direction with tracks.
I don't understand your necessity to have connectors available for something else on the relay that is too high to put anything on top ?
2 sounds like a much better option, make sure you have nothing right and left of the antenna when you move things around.
The problem you will have with this layout is the USB in that situation...
It doesn't sound like a great idea to me to use Wemos on this board especially for the relay part, it's just a cheap chinese relay with 3/4 components so why not just put them directly on you board to make the layout so much easier ?
I have the feeling that you're trying to make things "easier" by using Wemos and its shields, but in the end you seem to lose more than you gain. And neither does it seem "safer" to use their relay shield as it forces you to have extra wires between main of the HLK and relay shield connector.
@bisschopsr said in BlackCircle Sensor - High "WAF" Temp/Hum. sensor:
Hi All,
Like the design thinking of this, although an older topic I did manage to get me one of these dishes. After taking it apart, I have one question that came to mind. Is the ventilation in the dish enough for the humity sensor? Is there any experience with that after running this sensor for a while?
Thx
Ralph
Hello, yes I think it's enough, in fact there's much more ventilation than in many commercial sensors which only have a small hole. But it's a good test to make, I'll try to compare to a sensor out of it's enclosure to see if there's significant difference or delay.
Sorry for the delay first of all, unfortunately I didn't get the notification of this thread If you are using a latching relay I'd recommend using SensorLatchingRelay1Pin or SensorLatchingRelay2Pins which should take better all the aspects of a latching relay. Then you can still use the safeguard for closing the door after a given timeframe. And yes you have to set a reporting interval even if not intuitive at all. This is because the safeguard is checked in the loop cycle which is called only if a reporting interval is set. So if you have a safeguard set to 1 minute, the report interval should be 1 minute or less. Thanks!
@karlheinz2000 said:
But if I'm not using MYSB, I can flash a sketch with defined ID and this will work instantly in the network.
Yes
With MYSB I always have to do assign a new ID just to get the node to run the first time after flashing.
Only true if EEPROM (i.e. ID address location) was cleared.
Any chance to get MYSB to know, if a sketch is an flash?
And start this sketch, which then will use the defined ID or request a new ID from controller and writes the eeprom?
During booting, MYSBootloader calculates the FW CRC in flash and verifies it against the FW CRC stored in EEPROM (which is written after a successful OTA FW update) - if it matches, the sketch starts, if not, the bootloader remains active.
Hi @berkseo. Thanks for the suggestion, but could you describe in more detail? As for my TODO list, there is already a task to add 485 interface to the gateway. My latest device "xRoom" have this interface.
ps/ Where have you gone?
I have been working on "xRoom" shield. A small announce:
Do you remember the discussion about multinode? So, it will be available soon))
Hey! This looks like a great project! I'm considering building one for my hives.
I notice that the legs need to be welded. That will be a chore for people that want to make this build themselves.
Is this version designed to be built by anyone?
Did you consider using open source or standardized hardware? Think of 2020 alu profiles or something, to allow reasonable buildability for users other than beep-base-shop.
Also let me know if I misjudged, and that all components could be simply bought online.
Stay awesome!
~ Bart
