this kind of optic fiber is probably only plastic so for a full DIY , you can use also fishing wire with a big power led or an old chistmass tree optic fiber lighted.....
Hello Tilman, this is really a very nice design. I have ordered a pack of PCBs from elecrow, based on your gerber files, and have a few questions:
in your BOM you have listed 5 smd-capacitors and 7 smd resistors, but on the PCB i have solderpads for 6 capacitors and 8 resistors. Can you just explain?
is there a uniflächentaster-model for 2 ways?
i think i have to flash the bootloader first, do you have a tutorial for this, and a sample-sketch for the board?
Thank you very much
I built a trip wire for the post box that I'm connecting. It's however based on a mercury tilt sensor so I'm really not sure whether I think it's a great idea putting it to use (at least not with a sturdy case...). However, I can share my code:
#define DIGITAL_INPUT_SENSOR 2 // The digital input you attached your motion sensor. (Only 2 and 3 generates interrupt!)
#define INTERRUPT DIGITAL_INPUT_SENSOR-2 // Usually the interrupt = pin -2 (on uno/nano anyway)
MyMessage msgTripped(CHILD_ID_TRIPPED, V_TRIPPED);
void setup()
{
gw.sendSketchInfo("Postal", "1.0");
gw.present(CHILD_ID_TRIPPED, S_MOTION);
pinMode(DIGITAL_INPUT_SENSOR, INPUT); // sets the motion sensor digital pin as input
}
void loop()
{
boolean tripped = digitalRead(DIGITAL_INPUT_SENSOR) == LOW;
if(tripped) {
gw.send(msgTripped.set("1")); // Send tripped value to gw
}
gw.sleep(INTERRUPT,FALLING, SLEEP_TIME);
}
@ryanbrown204 temperature: https://www.mysensors.org/build/temp
Motion: https://www.mysensors.org/build/motion
See the first post in this thread for the modifications Konrad did.
The author has done some good work ensuring good design practices; trace separation, fuses, etc. but I don't see any extra I/O brought out on this particularl switch. You would have to carefully solder to the chip itself, and modify the code a bit.
You could use magnetic switches. Put a magnet on the blinds and the switch in window sill.
The author notes that this is not an Arduino, but uses the same chip that the Arduino uses. The author doesn't explain how the chip is programmed. This method could have been used.
It may be just as easy to use an RF Nano with a little power supply. This suggestion is not nearly as robust as the author's. For example, these power supplies have gotten bad reviews mainly because the mains power traces are too close together. I justify using them because in all likelihood a failure will pop the power supply and probably the Nano, too, noting that these are cheaper than the fuses you would put in to protect them. I am fully aware of the risks involved in doing this, and you should be, too (eg. burning down your house).
-OSD
