💬 Ikea Molgan Hack
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@LastSamurai How exactly did you flash it? I am using an USBasp, too. As it seems I have bricked 2 atmega328p and one Arduino Pro mini already. :dancer:
This is what I did:
"C:\Program Files (x86)\Arduino\hardware\tools\avr\bin\avrdude.exe" -C "C:\Program Files (x86)\Arduino\hardware\tools\avr\etc\avrdude.conf" -B 40 -c usbasp -p m328p -b 11520 -P usb -V -v -U efuse:w:0xFE:m -U hfuse:w:0xDA:m -U lfuse:w:0xE2:m"C:\Program Files (x86)\Arduino\hardware\tools\avr\bin\avrdude.exe" -C "C:\Program Files (x86)\Arduino\hardware\tools\avr\etc\avrdude.conf" -c usbasp -p m328p -b 115200 -P usb -V -U flash:w:ATmegaBOOT_168_atmega328_pro_8MHz.hex
After this I am not able to flash sketches via the Arduino IDE. Any ideas?
Never mind, it's working now. I soldered a completely new pcb and this time it runs without problems. I still have no idea, why it did now work on first try. But I guess it has something to do with the fact, that I used hot air and solder paste for the first time. :)
Edit: I have assembled all the stuff and the node is kind of working. It presents itself to the gateway perfectly. What does not work is the motion sensor. The pin is always high. When I pull it down manually and release it again, the node sends its message.
I have removed the light sensor and R17. I have replaced R11 with a 1k resistor because that was the smallest one I had. Could this be a problem?Edit: Ok, found the problem. Seems like I have accidentally unsoldered R2 when I removed the light sensor. From your pictures I found out, that there has to be a 470k resistor. Now it works. :)
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@Yveaux Short question: the zener diode only caps the voltage of the trigger so that the atmega328 can read it safely, right? Wouldn't a 3.3V zener diode work just as well then? Only asking because I am currently having a hard time finding a matching zener diode on aliexpress.
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@Yveaux Short question: the zener diode only caps the voltage of the trigger so that the atmega328 can read it safely, right? Wouldn't a 3.3V zener diode work just as well then? Only asking because I am currently having a hard time finding a matching zener diode on aliexpress.
@LastSamurai As long as you can be sure the Vcc of the Arduino stays around 3.3v you can use a 3.3v zener. If you power as indicated (2 AA cells) voltage can drop below 2V and that cannot be considered safe. As an alternative to the zener you can have a resistor voltage divider (or stack a few normal diodes).
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Here's a random question, has anyone made or considered if possible even, an RFM69 radio version? I'm considering moving to RFM69 from NRF24 due to some range issues.. maybe.. Will need two gateways or something along those lines to keep using these fantastic nodes, have 3. Any thoughts back would be terrific, is there for example some show stopper I'm missing or just a matter of space and creative wiring!?
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This post is deleted!
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I have finally finished the PCB of two Molgans (withou the actual Molgan). I spent several hours trying to figure out why the sensor did not register with Domoticz.
I had it plugged in to the FTDI which powered it, but nothing... device talked, gateway listened, but device ignored responses from gateway.
I just dealt with with problem on some other nodes, and it was the channel id that was inappropriate. But now I had the correct channel id, and still the same problem.
I checked for shorts, but nothing.
Measured the voltage. It says 3v3 on the FTDI but was actually 3v5. But that should be ok.
Finally I figured, power it through the + and - pads instead of FTDI. So, I set up a 3v3 power supply.. and voila.. it registered with the gateway.I don't understand why, power is power... but apparently power is different.
So, for future builders, if you run this, you know what I did.Need to head to IKEA and get some more Molgans!!
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I have finally finished the PCB of two Molgans (withou the actual Molgan). I spent several hours trying to figure out why the sensor did not register with Domoticz.
I had it plugged in to the FTDI which powered it, but nothing... device talked, gateway listened, but device ignored responses from gateway.
I just dealt with with problem on some other nodes, and it was the channel id that was inappropriate. But now I had the correct channel id, and still the same problem.
I checked for shorts, but nothing.
Measured the voltage. It says 3v3 on the FTDI but was actually 3v5. But that should be ok.
Finally I figured, power it through the + and - pads instead of FTDI. So, I set up a 3v3 power supply.. and voila.. it registered with the gateway.I don't understand why, power is power... but apparently power is different.
So, for future builders, if you run this, you know what I did.Need to head to IKEA and get some more Molgans!!
@magpern the instructions on openhardware.io state that the Molgan must be battery powered while programming:
"Remove the batteries and connect a standard FTDI serial cable (the ones used to program an Arduino Pro-Mini) to the FTDI connector of the add-on PCB. Replace the batteries and plug the FTDI cable in your PC."
http://yveaux.blogspot.nl
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@magpern the instructions on openhardware.io state that the Molgan must be battery powered while programming:
"Remove the batteries and connect a standard FTDI serial cable (the ones used to program an Arduino Pro-Mini) to the FTDI connector of the add-on PCB. Replace the batteries and plug the FTDI cable in your PC."
@yveaux said in 💬 Ikea Molgan Hack:
@magpern the instructions on openhardware.io state that the Molgan must be battery powered while programming:
Well, then I can confirm that you don't have to power the Molgan from batteries just for programming. Burning the bootloader works fine with just power from the ISP port and programming it through FTDI works fine if power comes from the FTDI.
What I found wierd is that the atmega328 had power, the radio had power, it wrote debug messages to the FTDI - when powered through the FTDI, it send radio messages etc, but it just did not receive messages.
Messages where not received until I supplied power to the + / - pads (battery pads).I did read the instructions on openhardware.io, but I didn't follow then to the t. :)
