Posts made by tonnerre33

@schif
Hello,
Thanx for you comment. Yes you can use it but use a ceramic capacitor

@rzylius https://forum.mysensors.org/topic/3671/ac-dc-double-solid-state-relay-module/197

@grumpf Hello,
if i remember well, we can't anymore change the state of the output in the setup function.
Try to do this in the presentation function

@gohan said in Battery Powered Sensors:
Hello, i didn't know why you add 4 measures (batarray) and you divide by 3 the sum .

@grumpf said in Soil Moisture Sensor Pro Mini:
Thank you Grumpf
For ended well this project i would like to make a beautifull enclosure. But i haven't yet a 3D printer for do it.
Maybe in the end of 2018 cause i have many projects before.
If you haven't an enclosure i advise you to put a wire between the probe and the node because when you will water the plant, the batteries can be drowned.

@dbemowsk said in Soil Moisture Sensor SMD:

I would say that that argument heavily sways the decision away from integrating the sensor.

Yes or we need to change the kind of the probe. I already saw a project with a probe without contact between the copper and the earth. I think this kind of probe reduces or removes the problem of the corrosion but i don't know how to make it.
We can find an example here : https://wemakethings.net/chirp/

But at the time when I have watched, the price of the pcb like this was very expensive. Maybe i can take a look now cause prices of pcb have decreased on pcbway

@dbemowsk Thx for your comment.
I had thought about it too but i think is more expensive to buy a bigger pcb than a separate probe.
And one more thing, with the corrosion i think we have to change the probe after few years. So if we have to change it, it's better to have one distinct.

Sorry for the off-topic, but your site is beautifull

I have finished this project
I haven't tested the last version for a long time but the previous version are always working fine.
If you have any request, tell me and if someone can make a beautifull enclosure, that's will be awesome.
I haven't yet a 3D printer but i hope i'll have it one day .

Congratulations to all participants

@Nca78 said in Livolo 3 buttons US/AU switch adapter:
It's true. Can you take a picture of you pic mcu main board ? It's for compare with my EU board

@Nca78 said in Livolo 3 buttons US/AU switch adapter:

In the livolo EU board, the RX and TX pin are for the radio. It's the same PCB all the time, they just put or not the 433MHZ radio

Oh it's true, i have forgotten there is 2 traces on the opposite side ... The 12V and the GND... I have never had a problem with pcbs.io, and i have ordered my livolo pcb with pcbs.io too !!

I like this seller because even if i did a mistake on my board they cancel my order if i ask it

Did you test the Continuity between the bottom and the top of the 14 pins ?

Can you post the drill picture generated by pcbs.io like this :

https://s3.amazonaws.com/pcbsio/svgs/e793253e45b9fed6f39aa2ed42b7c3be76d1f2aee0ee4f2adeda47340b6d26c9/drl.svg

or share the project and send the link

@shabba Did you try to desolder the connectors of the livolo top pcb ? If you can you will try without wait I think you just need an hot air gun but i haven't test it.

In the future, could you tell me if you have some crash with the RFM69 because i have. But it's not the mtitiu's board, don't worry

@shabba you can buy the 14 pins smd like this https://fr.aliexpress.com/item/100pcs-2x7-P-14-Pin-2-0-mm-Pin-Header-Female-Dual-row-SMT-PCB-surface/32729270520.html

@laucarlier said in AC-DC double solid state relay module:
Hello, i have posted fiew pictures here : http://www.photorapide.com/albums/jordan/khreln/ac-dc-double-solid-state-relay-module.html

@mtiutiu I only made the bridge across the resistor marked with 104. My schematic board is here :
https://github.com/tonnerre33/Livolo_EU_2Gang_1way/tree/develop

The board is running perfectly when powering by batteries (12VDC between 12-14VCC pin and GND pin)

I can't do more modifications cause i think the 13003A is broken I'am waiting the new mofset

@mtiutiu Yes if you can just test the two channels on with only one bulb and capacitor this would be great

@mtiutiu Thx for the answers
I think you have a mistake on your picture. The GND pin is the second pin of the bottom when you start by the left side

Did you test both relays in Set position (simulate 2 lamps power on even if one isn't connected) ?

@mtiutiu Did you try with only a brige on the 100K resistor ?
Which type of lamp and power did you use ?

@Tigroenot Thank you for your comment.
I understand there is 2 power circuits, but i don't understand why the mosfet burnt, after wire a bridge across the 100K resistor and after few commands (not immediatly).

I did many simulations with LTspice and i didn't find the reason...

I think he has burnt when i have the lamp 1 on and i have pushed on the other button without lamp 2 connected on the livolo.

If someone have any idea, that's will be helpfull for not burn another mofset. ^^

Now i'am waiting the deliveri of the mofset and i am hoping that is the HS component

@mtiutiu said in Livolo 2 channels 1 way EU switch(VL-C700X-1_Ver_C2):

did you wired the capacitor across the light bulb as well?

Nope, the light bulb i use contains already a capacitor 1.1µF (thx Nca ) and the bulb is lighted a little even if the button is off.
I duno why but the mofset is HS, i have checked him with my multimetor.
He can operate with 1.5A max, i don't understand why he burnt and why after a command... Before this command all was ok ... Why i pushed the button

edit : @mtiutiu said

Those hardware modifications were picked from other thread in this forum.

Which thread ?

@mtiutiu I wired a bridge across the resistor marked 104 and my node was powered well.

But after on or two command, the 12v doesn't work when the lamp is off. When the lamp is on (forcing command relay), the 12V appear and all run.
Is the CMOS broken ? Which component produce this 12V when the lamp is off ?

Hi @mtiutiu, i need your help
The new board outline is perfect and the position of the connector too but my thickness board is too high (just an aesthetic point).
So, the mecanic is good and when i power the pcb with 12v by a battery all is ok.
But, there is a but when i power the node by the livolo, that's not working. The 12V goes to 3.15V.
I tried to change the tantalum capacitor localised at the input of the MCP16301 by a ceramic capacitor but i have always the issue.

Have you any idea ?

Edit : one thing i didn't place it's the 470pF on the BYP MIC5205-3.3 because i haven't this value. I tried with 100pF and without capactitor but the issue still here

A fast extraction without traitment if that can help

@mtiutiu said in Livolo 2 channels 1 way EU switch(VL-C700X-1_Ver_C2):

Good work dude !
For information, i think receive in the next 2 weeks, the pcb that i made for training.
If you can wait, i'll can check the mecanical part before your pcb order.
As you want

@scalz Ok, so i will connect the ant pin and change the config

Thank you for your help Scalz

Hello,

I am reading the documentation of the RFM69HW and if we want to set the power range > 13dBm (default value in mysensors config), we need to use the PA_BOOST pin !!
But i don't find this pin ?
Someone knows what we have to do for use the +20dBm config ?

Thanks you for your answers

@shabba You can see the old one on the picture of this project

@hhalibo Yes i'll push this project in the master branch only when i'll have test it. @mtiutiu is working on it too, i did this node for training me because i'll develop other livolo EU
I think the mtiutiu node will be more optimised. I learned and i hope continu to learn many things with him.

Yes, you can find the new pint out here :

http://www.photorapide.com/images.php?photoName=dm0l6i.jpg&photoId=1002306

@shabba said in Livolo 2 channels 1 way EU switch(VL-C700X-1 Ver: B8):

The position of the header has changed too. Now it's on the right part.
I think you can use your pcb but you'll need some wires between the femal header and the new mal header.

Hello @mtiutiu i think i have finished my first version.
I have modified the pcb with your suggestions (power the node with 12VCC).
I have corrected a big mistake too, the AT25DF512C footprint was wrong (convertor mistake i think) ...

I have to put 2 resistors on the prohibided face ^^ but normaly it should be ok

Thanks a lot, now i know why

@mtiutiu said in MySensors RFM69W serial GW(ATMEGA328P):

Oh ok, and just for know, why we don't power the atmega with 3.3V ?

Hello, what is the goal of the TXB0104, it's the first time that i see him in a project ?

@mtiutiu Yes the new connector is mapped for the new version. I have checked the pins with the multimeter.

I have done many picture that you can see here :

http://www.photorapide.com/albums/jordan/kqadrk/livolo-vl-c702x-2-ver-c1.html

I hope you will find the informations that you want.

Caution if you look my schema for see the mapping of the pin because on my board the bottom is your top and the top your bottom

Edit : I have added the mapping in the picture album

Did you know why the pin in red surrounded is connected to the VIN ?

Thx mtiutiu.
I followed your advises and i converted the project to kicad
For the board frame, i have tested it with paper but it's difficult to check it because paper is flexible..

Same for the position of the 2x7 pins connectors, i think it's ok but i'm not sure until i have tested it with a real pcb.

You are right for the power !! I haven't check the current consumption of the RFM !! OMG 45mA in tranmit mode when NRF24L01 is 11.3mA (but with 0dBm output power for NRF).

For RFM it's 20mA with 0dBm. Can't we set RFM to 0dBm ? I don't know the consequences for the range if we change this parameter...

The installed regulator is 7130-1 = 30mA for Vin=5V. Maybe it's more current for 3V ? I didn't see the information in the doc

@mtiutiu It's the PCB that i made here : https://github.com/tonnerre33/Linovo_EU_2Gang_1way/tree/develop/

You can take many informations that you want
I'm curious to see how you'll do the pcb for compare with mine and learn

@Yveaux said in [SOLVED] Sleep dont run:

@AWI Your third example is out-of spec (CHANGE interrupt) and behavior is therefore undefined. If it seems to work, you're lucky...

Are you saying that the example posted here https://www.mysensors.org/build/motion contains mistakes ?

@mtiutiu said in Livolo 3 buttons US/AU switch adapter:
Oh sry, i read the wrong value, and now i'm agree 100u is big

@mtiutiu said in Livolo 3 buttons US/AU switch adapter:
Hi,

thanks you for your feedback

Whatever the distance, i try to place all the time a ceramic resonator just for debug. Indeed, i have already brick my atmega with wrongs fuses and i had to add a resonator for change them again.

I did that on other project even if i use the 8Mhz internal oscillator.

For the distance, i didn't now the limit with 8Mhz.

I was thinking i have placed the caps for MCU like your project, isn't it ?
I didn't know the problem of the big tantalum capacitor (Is 100nF big ?) I'll place a 100nF ceramic capacitor in parrallel of the tantalum capacitor in a next rev.

I have tried kicad but when i have printed the PCB it was blurrier than the same maked with eagle. I was afraid with that, that's why i continu with eagle for the moment.

I'am glad that you looked this pcb, a big thx again.

Edit : on the linovo pcb, why they don't put a ceramic capacitors near the tantalum capacitor ?

Hi all,

As you requested, if someone want to check the board, i have adapted it for LINOVO 2 gangs 1 way EU format.

You can find the files her https://github.com/tonnerre33/Linovo_EU_2Gang_1way/tree/develop/

@torfinn said in Sleep dont run and @mar-conte :

Did you mesure the current consumed by the PIR when you are in sleep mode ?

@mar.conte said in Sleep dont run:
Hi, you need to change the SLEEP_TIME value .
For example :
SLEEP_TIME = 10000 //Time in milliseconds

Hi, which sensor do you use ?
A DHT put on a pcb or without pcb ?
If you haven't a DHT with pcb, you need to put a 5k resistor between pin 1 and 2 of the DHT
More information here : https://www.mysensors.org/dl/57c3ec0c4d04abe84cd93e0f/design/DHT11.pdf

@Nca78 @Samuel235
Thanks you for your arguments, both of you.
You're right, if the atmega was broken, the best way is to stop use this node because some components could be broken too.
This feature can permit to use the command when a problem with the radio or the controler appear.
But with MY_TRANSPORT_WAIT_READY_MS , maybe we don't need this feature anymore ?
You convainced me to undo this feature and minimise the components mostly if Livolo will make many updates.

Hello,
I have designed the outline of the 2 buttons, 1 way board EU the last week
I need time for identifiy the function of each connector pin because they have changed.
I must do the same thing for the 1 buttons, 1 way EU version which i have.
But i would like to see if we can use a gate OR for command the relays by TTP Or Atmega. I want to keep the possiblity to command the light with button even if the atmega is out off service.

For doing this i'll need help because i'm newbie in electronic

Hello, for information, the version has changed Here is the new board : https://fr.aliexpress.com/item/Free-Shipping-EU-Standard-Livolo-AC-110-250V-The-Base-Of-Wall-Light-Touch-Screen-Switch/1898648882.html
But there is good news, 3V and 12V are directly accessible

@mar.conte Which skecth did you use ?
Did you have radio errors in your log ?

Awesome work dude !! And you did the pcb on eagle, you are my hero
That's will help me for develop EU version
Thx a lot

@Justas
I am agree with @LastSamurai .
You can find more informations in the @scalz post here https://forum.mysensors.org/topic/5294/inexpensive-3-3v-boost-converter/2 .

But if you want to use more battery capacity, you need to change the extended fuse of the Atmega328 (i wrote an example in the skecth).
If you don't do this the pro mini will restart when the voltage will go under 2.7V in general when the he can continue to run with 2.34V at 8mhz.

Hi,
I desoldered it for increase the battery life I did the same for the regulator.
You can find more informations here : https://www.mysensors.org/build/battery
Thx for your interest

I have just posted the pictures of the v1.1 version. Have fun.

@jirm said in Livolo EU switch Mysensors integration:

Nothing of that function should be affected by anything that this plate modifies on the Livolo switch.

I hope because i have many 2 way and the same for my futur home

And what about NRF24L version ?
Many people are using RFM69 but 2.70$ RFM vs 1$ NRF ... Ok for command the sensitives nodes like roller shutters but why for the light ?

@mtiutiu Thanks you for your anwser
Did you test a two way switch (va et viens) ?
I think we can do this with 1 gang 2 way :
https://fr.aliexpress.com/item/Black-Crystal-Glass-Switch-Livolo-EU-Standard-VL-C701SR-12-1-Gang-2-Way-Remote-Control/32786281129.html

Hello,
i don't find anymore the VL-C700X-1 on aliexpress.
Can you tel me which is equal ?
Is it https://fr.aliexpress.com/store/product/Free-Shipping-Livolo-Luxury-White-Crystal-Glass-Switch-Panel-EU-Standard-VL-C701-11-110-250V/500715_512886492.html?spm=2114.12010612.0.0.deb0F4 ?

Thx

@scalz Thx a lot ! I tried to replace the transmitter myself but the routing is too hard for me.

I'll try to check the schema before order the board

@HouseIOT said in 4-channel switcher/dimmer:

It is just my first project and it has some weaknesses

It's a very good project for your first. I hope see many another projects from you

@Samuel235 said in Homini AC Powered Relay (2) Module:

I suppose its something we all do at some point

Sure ! and i' m not the last for doing mistakes

Do you know of anyone using the clamp style current sensing?

I didn't see that for now

Thanks you very much for this work

I have only few comments about the security issue :

• In france, we only put the fuse on the phase, never on the neutral because if the fuse blows, we cut the dangerous potential (230V)
• Will you add a varistor for increase the protection of this board ?

@Samuel235

Do we have any proof that it is a much better idea to have it against the HLK module?

I haven't any proof, it's just that in my job, we place a PTC on the winding of the transformer for mesuring the temperature.
But we do that only in the big transformers (630KVA - 1000 KVA). For the littles transformers that we use, i think it is not necessary if we protect the primary of the transformer. In french industry, we protect also the secondary of the transformer for protecting him against overload (the primary fuse protecting only against short circuit).

Then, if we don't place the thermalfuse for the transformer i don't know why to put him in the circuit. For example @scalz didn't place this protection in his projects, because he thinks the same thing. If we are protecting with fuse, why protecting with termalfuse ? I think it's a big debate

No, that current sensor will pick up the current that flows to both relays.

But if i look the schema, the current in SSR2 will never pass by the ACS712 and for the Hall effect sensor a current need to go across a magnetic field, isn't it ?

Hello,
very nice work !
I don't know if you read another post writed by @hugch, but you have all good with this project.

Using a 5 V Arduino and the NRF without a level switcher with 3.3 V it will be break in the future.

The NRF on your board is powered by 3.3v same on the pins datas

The big relay routes have no protection (I don't know if solder resist is the correct word).

You put 1 fuse by relay

Maybe as pulldown resistor to the relay input could be useful.

You have added pullup resistor

The three GND and Vcc Pins are not connected to each other.

They are all connected

It is not a good idea to drive current intensive peripheral directly with an micro controller

You added MOSFET for command the relays

Just 3 things :

• Why you didn't put the thermalfuse in touch of the HILINK ? If heat increase inside the box, maybe is too late, that why i was thinking we need to place this protection nearby the power module.

• I didn't understand the current mesure. The ACS mesure the current only in the SSR1 ?

• Why you didn't use NRF24L01+ SMD component for gain some place ?

I'm finalizing the nrf24 version because it's a nice board, that would be too bad for nrf24 user

Did you finish the nrf24 version @scalz ?

@Justas Hello,

yes you have to buy parts and assemble them yourself. 1.5$ by PCB is cheap, you can't have the components for this price

@Yeitso you are right, 10pcbs order will just give you the pcb

@scalz nrf24 for the V1 or V2? Because if V2 isn't mysensors compatible, i prefer use V1 but in nrf24 version

@Marco-Lo-Grasso said in AC-DC double solid state relay module:

Yes you have to do this, but i don't know if the sketch is working fine with the light switch I haven't tested this feature yet.

Caution, the light switch don't be connected to the 230V !

@scalz Oki. And for the nrf24 version ?

@scalz Very good work dude ! What about de V2 ? because i want to build this awesome node but i have read somewhere, you are working on the V2

@napo7 You can use the chat for speak with marc
For legrand boxes, if you apply 650°C during x secondes, the box will not burn or participate in the spread of a fire
more informations at http://www.leblogdubatiment.com/22/09/2014/actualites-batiment-securite-incendie-quelle-est-la-norme-de-resistance-au-feu-des-luminaires/organismes-du-batiment/#.WJOElH--WUk

We need to look the temperature of the Auto-ignition and not the melt temperature for each material.

With PLA it's 388°C and around 500°C for ABS technologie

@scalz Thanks you a lot scalz, exactly what i want

Do you know what is the influence on the consumption to use a step-up converter ?

Edit:
Oh, sry, i am just seen the nca answer and i found lot of informations about the use of step-up converte.
But if we use a step-up converter with an AAA battery, do we increase the current used in a sleep mode ? If yes what about the magnitude (mA? µA? nA?) ?

@giovaFr said in Battery Powered Sensors:

A0maxV = VbattMax * (R1 / (R1+R2)

Are you sure about that ? I think is A0maxV = VbattMax * (R2 / (R1+R2)

R2 = 150k Ohms for 8.4V with R1 always at 1M Ohms

@giovaFr Hello, try to replace 470k(R2) by a 180k

for obtain this value i did : R2 = R1 / ( Vbatmax - Vref); R2 = 1.1^6 / (7.5 - 1.1) = 172k, i taked a normalized value = 180k.

@napo7 Sure my bad, you can buy true HLK-PM01 on this webiste www.hlktech.net and it's easy to contact them.

Which version do you use for RFM69 (HW, W, CW ?) and which frequency ?

@napo7 ok, i think it's a good choice too but i don't find RFM69 less than 4€ shipping included. Do you have a link for cheaper RFM ?

I have also the problem of clones with the power module (HLK-PM01).

Hi, thanks you for this project
can you tell me why you change for the RFM69 ? I have always difficulties to choose a transmitter

I didn't know this method

@kalina said:

When you press button circuit opens (on short time)

Do we have a limite time for circuit open ?

Atmega328 resets and toggles lamp

How do you do this in the sketch ?
Where can we find the sketch ?
What are the consequences for the components life ?

With this use, the reboot time will impact the response time bewtween the command and the lamp power , isn't it ?

@TD22057 I have exported images from the source files. You can see them here : http://www.photorapide.com/albums/tonnerre33/cemrki/mini-relay-box-by-koresh.html

@scalz Thx but how do you connect your USBASP on the pogo pins ?
I use an usbasp like this http://d1gsvnjtkwr6dd.cloudfront.net/large/AC-PG-USBASP_LRG.jpg but i don't see how to connect him on the pogo pins

Hi, which tool do you use for programming with your pogo pin avr isp ?

Why didn't use pogo pin for FTDI too ?

Thanks you
But i don't understand the difference between your 3 boost projects can you explain to me ?

Thanks you a lot for your work

Very good project ! Will do you sort an nrf smd version?

Hello
Will you build an nrf24l01 smd version ?

@Sander-Teunissen depend which rfm69 you will order. For example i have choosen 868Mhz, that's why i'll choose this frequency for all my nodes and my gateway

Hello,

It seems to me that this function is only in the developed branch with the parameter

MY_TRANSPORT_WAIT_READY_MS

More information at https://github.com/mysensors/MySensors/search?utf8=✓&q=MY_TRANSPORT_WAIT_READY_MS&type=Code

@Hilltan Hello, i think this link will be ok : http://dirtypcbs.com/store/details/885/mysensors-v3-3-2-light-switch

For information, a few members have too many PCB of this node that's why if you are living in Vietnam or asia, Nca78 can send you PCB and if you are in france, i can send too (contact by pm for terms).

I use this node since 20 days ago, and it's working well

@laster13 Yes your schema is correct.
The sketch has been modified by Nca78, you can try it first.
The problem does not come from the unused switch, because i use this node without switch.

@AWI I'm agree with you but coin cells have less capacity. The difference of the self discharge between coin cells and alkaline is not important (1% vs 2%), but the capacity and size are.

Here is a link with the Battery self-discharge rates :
http://www.gammon.com.au/power

Sure you can use an electrical socket without switch control.
But caution, max current is 2A ! It is ok for lamps but you can't supply a receiver which consumes more than 460VA per relay ( = 460W for resistive receiver).
I didn't see protection for relays, be careful

@laster13

Here is a schema of my installation without the node :
http://electric.system.free.fr/schemas/schemas/schema-prise-commandee.jpg

and one with the pcb :

http://www.photorapide.com/images.php?photoName=2whnu7.png&photoId=935027

Edit : and the node with connectors :

http://www.photorapide.com/images.php?photoName=074tl3.jpg&photoId=935034

@laster13 hi, i have tried this pcb with my bedroom lamp. Indeed, these lamps are powered by electrical socket which include neutral wire.
For the others lamps, i need to find how to command them without neutral wire
I am looking at this project but this is an smd project :

https://www.openhardware.io/view/249/MDMSNode-Lighting

@laster13 salut, en fait mes lampes de chambres sont sur prises commandées (donc accès au neutre), du coup j'utilise ce module pour ces lampes mais pour les autres bin il va falloir que je trouve autre chose
Je regarde un peu du coté de ce projet mais c'est du cms : voir le lien au dessus

@tlustoch You need to enable MY_OTA_FIRMWARE_FEATURE only if you use DualOptiBoot.
With MYSBootloader, you don't need

I use MYSBootloader 1.3 pre-release with mysensors 2.0. You can find it here : https://forum.mysensors.org/topic/3453/mysbootloader-1-3-pre-release-myscontroller-1-0-0beta

And yes it usable with 8 MHZ internal clock config if you burn the bootloader with 8Mhz internal clock setting.

Hello,

Nca78 has already answered :

@Nca78 said:

@tonnerre33 said:

Hi,

can we install this module in a wall ?
Can we command shutters ?

For the wall, that's the idea of keeping the 50*50mm size
For the shutters technically yes, but there are (at least) 2 problems :

• if you have the 2 relays on at the same time = 2 directions you will probably kill the motor, there is no hardware protection on this board to avoid that (one of the relays must have power only when the other one is in off state). This can be done in software so it's not blocking.
• if you want to be able to control the level/percentage of closing, you need to measure time from min to max position, to do that you need to measure current (when motor stop consuming current it means shutter has reached it's 0% or 100% position). But there is no current sensor on this board, so you either need to implement a manual calibration process (that will lose precision over time) or use only manual control.

I am planning to test it when I have some time, and when I receive the PCB.

@Nca78
I have searched others wall box today but nothing fit (box from france).
A 43x45mm pcb will fit well.
I tried the pcb of the roller-shutter-node (45x46mm) and the wall box fits well.
What do you mean by "no additionnal connectors" ? Will can use physical switches ?

Yes, it's 5x5cm.
For information, i can't place this pcb in my wall box.
I'll search other wall box this week in order to find a greater box..

If someone want just to test the PCB i can sell one PCB if you are in france
I have ordered 10 boards but i don't think use everything.

@kalina thx for your answer

Hello

Why do you use a triac instead a relay for command the light ? What is the point ?

I used the sketch of Nca78 (2 months ago) but i only command relays from jeedom.
I didn't test physical switch change because i don't have neutral wire in my switch box

Hello all,

I have finished to assemble one of this board today.

You can see some pictures of my board here :
http://www.photorapide.com/albums/jordan/khreln/ac-dc-double-solid-state-relay-module.html

If you want more pictures, ask me

The skecth works fine.

Thx for this project.

hello all,

i have installed MYSBootloaderV13pre on my arduino mini pro 3.3V and this work fine.

But i encountered some issues with my jeedom version (the node.js crash) that why i want to replace this bootloader (temporarily) but i can't.

Do you know why when i burn a different bootloader, MYSBootloaderV13pre is still present ?

Thx in advance for your answers