@alowhum Sorry, I have abandoned this project. It didn't garner the interest I hoped it would, and I’ve moved on to other microcontrollers/radios/networks since then. This is hosted on GitHub’s free static hosting, so it should continue to work as long as they are in business, and it should work on devices as it was 5-6 years ago. But I won’t be supporting it and won’t continue to build on it. Glad to hear that you like it!

@Yveaux Thanks very much for all your help. I hooked up the IRQ pin to the Arduino pin 2 as you suggested and it’s working fine now.

My current roller roller Shutter switch are two pushed buttons up and down. No stop button. When release the push button up or down, the shutter will stop. WIll it be compatible with this board or will i have to change the buttons ?

@flopp Found one mistake. I wrote some Serial.print to see where in the code my problem was and I wrote in a wrong place, so the code was looping on a wrong way. When that was corrected I found out that my relay needed to get 1 when it was off, so I just changed to below and now I don't get a green light as soon as I power on the arduino #define RELAY_ON 0 #define RELAY_OFF 1

With how long max tape you test it ? I have a living room and i need control RGBW with about 16 meters.... I can use your controller ?

Reporting back: I have my BambuLab X1C printer setup and have printed with it for about a week. It's fantastic: it's fast, and the prints come out perfectly every time. Truly an appliance: it works with only minor setup straight out of the box. I'd say it's a quantum leap better than my Prusa MK3S, which I guess I should try to sell while it still has value.

@hlehoux - nice once! Thanks for sharing!

Update on the project. New version added to openhardware.io

Thought I'd share a couple cool things I've learned recently. One is that meshmixer offers treelike supports, which is pretty cool, and it's free: [image: mainpage_download.png] You can import your model and just add the supports without using the rest of meshmixer, if that's all you want. That's how I plan to use it. The other is that if you want to print faster, but with good print quality, you should definitely look into linear advance. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c5jjwBqARpo&t=255s Anyone else learned anything cool lately?

I'm wondering what the minimum input voltage is. The description only says max. 6.5V input voltage from the battery, but does not say what the minimum is. Both the nrf24l01+ as well as the atmega328P work with 3.3V, so if I use three AA batteries, that should be fine, right? I suppose using two AA batteries is not enough?

@ncollins Impressive! Looks as though you even modeled the exact shape of the coincell holder. And you apparently designed the 3D printer snap enclosures as well. Even just the 3D printed enclosure modelling is quite a task all by itself. I hope to one day evolve into doing that too, but for now the Hammond enclosures are going to be my short-term solution. The smallest Hammond is still not as small as what you've managed to produce, but at 36mm wide for an off-the-shelf ABS enclosure, it's too wide by only about 10mm. Still.... one day I want to 3D print an enclosure to be as small as possible.

@dzungpham0703 I replied in the nrf51822 thread. Yes I managed to make it work like the original with BLE stack. And using the wonderful Cypress Proc BLE solution including capsense and lots of goodies . Cypress really rocks! I love them. The current consumption was lowered to 200uA without being connected and 700uA connected. Those numbers include LEDs current consumption and other blocks like touch sensing. I'll get back with more updates when it's finished.

@artur said: and who will MQTT broker? You are right! I misunderstood something here! I believe I have to create code for MQTT broker with MyController http://forum.mysensors.org/topic/2285/mqtt-broker-support-in-mysensors-1-6

Hi Thank you for your reply and I understand that, if you look at the code you will see that pin 3 isn't named/defined in the coed. Unless I am missing something Thanks

For info, Luminara works with USB-UIRT with windows (Eventghost) Code IR ON: 0000 006F 0000 000A 01DD 0054 00F1 0053 002C 007B 002D 007B 002C 007B 007C 002B 002D 007C 002C 007B 007B 002C 007B 0FF1 Code IR OFF: 0000 006F 0000 000A 01DD 0054 00F2 0053 002D 007B 002D 007B 002C 007B 007C 002C 002C 007B 002D 007B 007B 002C 002D 09F6 With Eventghost you can create request HTTP to Trigger IR signal I learned code IR with LM Remote KeyMap beacause EventGhost don't learn signal

I may misunderstand how they work, but I've had the idea that (super)caps are better in short term high current situations. Like regenerative brakes for robot lawnmowers, not slow drain low power devices. It sounds to me like the life boat is the lifepo4 batteries. I'm all for experiments, so please dont stop, but unless the environmental conditions are intolerable for the batteries, I'd say you found your answer.

There is several alternatives in aliexpress to the memory @Anticimex posted above, SPI interface, same pin distribution, only change the memory capacity and voltage input. (and good prices)

For anyone who is interested in this topic, I posted some comments about the am612 on this other thread: https://forum.mysensors.org/topic/5986/pir-am312-412-612 It may have some relevance to the am312.

Maybe next summer the 10 years after party? I would still like to meet all of you guys in real person