@Samuel235 said in 💬 Homini AC Powered Relay (2) Module: OMRON G3MB-202P Okay I'm trying to help you with the fuse component. ;-) I found a datasheet for the OMRON G3MB-202P. And there are enoght information to be known for fuse selection. :-) I try to calculate it here (and i will try it with my bad English ;-) ). The most important information is the melting integral. The Melting integral has A²s as unit. So this means the maximum current for a time can exists without damaging the device. For further information look at wikipedia. So we need any further information about: the protection which is present before (the typical circuit protection in private houses) the melting integral from the device which we want to protect the maximum voltage the maximum switching current the breaking capacity Inrush current for the switched devices (we can't know) Typical values for an automatic circuit breaker in private houses are: from 25 to 100 A²s 230 V AC 16 A So this protection isn't good enough for our relay. The relay have these values: 230 V AC 2 A maximum switching current I²t value (melting integral): 4 A²s the allowed inrush current over a small time is higher than the melting integral. It is a bit confusing i think, but if we calculate the protection for the given melting integral and it's fine. So we can define the parameters for the client (switching site of this application here) The fuse have to be: I²s value higher or equal than the I²s value from the existing protection rating voltage over 230 V AC rating current 2 A or lower (because 2 A is the maximum at 25 °C, for 40 °C it is about 1.6 A) a maximum switching time of 1 second at 2 A or lower time with higher current but below 4A²s! To calculate use the switching time from the fuse datasheet an multiply it two times with the given current for this switching time. And i think a fast blow fuse would be the best. There are SMD fuses with 10.1 x 3 mm and 250 V AC available. If there is no fuse available with the values above, we could combine multiple fuses. A possible solution could be one bigger fuse for both relays and the ac/dc component. And a smaller fuse for the switching site of the relay and the HLK-PM01. But for this it is important that the circuit have only one input for the hot one (L) of 230 V and one output for each relay. In this case we could reduce the big connectors from 6 to 4. Like (L, N, Relay1, Relay2). And the temperature fuse can work for all components too ;-) So the protection for the primary site of the HLK-PM01 is a problem i think. Because the are no information available about the I²s value from HLK-PM01. I hope you can understand my English and could follow my explanation?

Hi, I finally received the boards from the manufacturer(big thanks to @Seeed-Fusion). I manage to assemble one board by soldering the components and such and...it WORKS(including OTA)! I will post the instructions on openhardware.io project page.

Hi, did you assembled the board and tested it? I am thinkiing of making some of them, is there something I should watch out for? Thanks!

The send-function is used to send updates to the controller, in your case the physical-button-switch-change. Doing the send, does not control anything on the node itself.

@nicomedia I stumbled on this doing a google search. Just wondering if you are still trying to get your Sonoff's working with your Vera controller? If so, I have written a blog post on the subject. It uses a different firmware called ESP Easy and an HTTP Switch plugin on the Vera rather than MySensors. but it works rather well for me. Here is the link to the blog post: https://dan.bemowski.info/2017/07/04/using-a-sonoff-with-espeasy-and-vera/ I use this in conjunction with some MySensors wall switches that I built. https://dan.bemowski.info/2017/06/11/my-start-into-open-source-hardware/

Hi @koresh - I had a little accident on the AC side :-). I was wondering what values the 2 resistors (TH and SMD) and diode are ? Thanks!

That's cool, just thought I would throw it into the pot. I don't use OpenHAB so can't be of much help there i'm afraid.

Do you really need a compact device?

The updates have been applied to Rev 2, below we have a list of everything that has been added/modified; Modification footprint for 3 items to make it easier to mount (Slow blow fuse, Thermal Fuse and Voltage Regulator) when hand soldering. Modification to nRF24L01+ Module to remove the short to ground on VCC line. Added the additional silkscreen labeling that was missed off by accident. This should be all that is needed for Rev 2 to be a successor to the Rev 1. We still have the issue with having to use pogo pins to program through the ISP connection, or to temporarily solder jumper wire into the 6 pin connection while uploading, then everything else can be programmed through the on-board FTDI connection. Will get the gerber files generated ASAP and then get them sent off for testing production runs.

Or even this MOSFET and it would seem this is the datasheet after a quick google.

@yury said in 💬 Wall Socket Insertable Node: Looks cool! Do you have experience with capacities switches? I did not play much with them. afraid to use close to AC interference though... You need to use a capacitive IC with active shielding, basically you have an extra electrode around your touch electrode and the touch IC will compare capacitive change of the touch electrode with capacitive change from the shield electrode. If the change is due to electrical interference then both electrodes will be changed in a similar way and the IC will not trigger.

Good to know, indeed my setup is working now with stable libraries thanks to this helpful community. I'll go back later to development libraries to see if I'm able to work with it as well.

Hi, nice projet. I am very interested in it. But why you are using 5 V and not 3.3 V? The ATmea328 works with 3.3 V too and the NRF have to use 3.3 V. The only restriction on 3.3 V is the clock limitation for the Atmega (8 MHz). But with no crystal it don't care. For example you could use an HLK-PM03 instead of HLK-PM01 and remove the linear voltage regulator. So you get more space an everything have the same voltage level. And another point is, it is recommended to use a capacitor (0.1 µF) to ground for each voltage pin (Vcc, Avcc, Aref).

My current roller roller Shutter switch are two pushed buttons up and down. No stop button. When release the push button up or down, the shutter will stop. WIll it be compatible with this board or will i have to change the buttons ?