Lets continue in correct topic https://forum.mysensors.org/topic/4821/rain-gauge/35

Not very nice but I think this will work.. //float temperature = dht.getTemperature(); float temperature = dht.getTemperature()*9/5 + 32; if (isnan(temperature)) { Serial.println("Failed reading temperature from DHT"); } else if (temperature != lastTemp) { lastTemp = temperature; if (!metric) { temperature = dht.getTemperature()*9/5 + 32; //dht.toFahrenheit(temperature); }

@jeti said: @Nicola-Reina said: Anybody wanting 10 kits at a bargain price. I am sellling them at bargain price due to lack of time to play with them. If you are in Rome I can hand it over directly . If you are at EU maker faire this week end even better see you there. Otherwise I ship them too KR Still got the 10Kits? You can still buy these kits from my homepage.

Hi to all, I don't know if this is the right thread, but I'm trying to use an odroid c1 as a gateway. I'm posting here because I think you all could help me. The original thread I have done is this one https://forum.mysensors.org/topic/6083/odroid-c1-as-getaway Feel free to go over there and give me advises.

@Omemanti, thanks for the pointer. Unfortunately, this seems to be a hardware problem of the NRF52* boards, not of the NRF51822-04 that is used in NeverDie's board. Is there any way to find out which peripherals are enabled while the nrf51 is sleeping? I tried googling and also looked at the openocd documentation, but couldn't see any reference to reading out the which peripherals are turned off and which are running while the nrf is in deep sleep. (I'm using a cheap Chinese ST-link V2 dongle to program the nrf via SWD).

@mfalkvidd Yes, that’s the one.

yes also here (France) there is still some person with the mask, a remnant of the trauma?

Ok, it works. Looks like the problem was caused by windows sensors that were not connected but initialized, so they were missing. I removed them in the MAX software and then everything was displayed correctly. Thank you for this great project! :+1:

@acb Hi @acb and others, regarding "Do you know if there is a version of this board that is pad-compatible with the C-versions of these HopeRF RFM69s before I go searching? (Since I believe the C-versions are also pad-compatible with the RFM95s…)" - did you find any alternative? I'm in the same boat looking for an adapter from NRF24 to the footprint of RFM69*C = RFM95/96. Thanks, Joost

@Yveaux Thanks for your reply. I've done a lot of debugging today. And I guess I found the issue. It's definitely related to the radio power consumption as you suggested. I'm currently using the new RFM69 driver, with ATC enabled by default. As long as the power level stays below -4 dB, everything works fine. If the gateway is powered off, the radio power level automatically increases to 100% and the PIR behaves weird. It's always HIGH. By rebooting the gateway, the node relink itself and gradually lowers its power. As before, when it goes below -4dB the PIR starts to work again. Since it's a battery powered device I decided to set #define MY_RFM69_MAX_POWER_LEVEL_DBM (-4) at the beginning of the sketch file. Even if the gateway fails (shutdown) the PIR does not get HIGH anymore. All the measurements work fine now by limiting the max power to the radio. By doing so all the sleeps of 1000ms after each send are not needed anymore.

@TheoL I will miss the mini maker faire as well (chillin in Ibiza at the moment, familytime)

My experience with using a "Micro USB 5V 1A 18650 Lithium Battery Charger Board With Protection Module" together with the "16 LED Solar Power Motion Sensor Security Lamp Outdoor Waterproof Light"s solar panel is that it's not charging the battery as well as the original built in PCB. Due to the varying voltage (up to 6V) of the solar panel it's not so well suited as a power source for "Micro USB 5V 1A 18650 Lithium Battery Charger Board With Protection Module". I experimented with diodes in serial (2 diodes gave best result) to lower the voltage. However using the original board allowed the battery to charge with a much higher current. I just cut of the motion sensor, and the power switch. It seems to work well. It's even charging a few mA now here when it's raining. My conclusion is that the "Micro USB 5V 1A 18650 Lithium Battery Charger Board With Protection Module" might be used but the original PCB makes a better job charging the battery. Cheers!

@gohan Thanks for info.

Perhaps it would be good to update the example code. I mean the pull-up sequence: "It is recommended to set the pinMode() to INPUT_PULLUP to enable the internal pull-up resistor." - https://www.arduino.cc/reference/en/language/functions/digital-io/digitalwrite/ The following seems to be obsolete: // Setup the button pinMode(BUTTON_PIN,INPUT); // Activate internal pull-up digitalWrite(BUTTON_PIN,HIGH);

I saw this page and thought I give it a go. So I bought two OrangePi Zero 2. There's a lot of potential (WiFi) as a dedicated gateway. Currently the price is about US$20 on AliExpress (caveat emptor) There are a few flavors of Linux for it. I've dabbled with Armbian, Ubuntu and Debian Another upside is that it doesn't draw a lot of current ~0.5A, though I haven't been successful in getting the radio to run (the reason for me being here) This is also a downside as I suspect the power supply needs to be very close to 5V. Thinking it was a power hog like the RPi, I used a 5V-3A supply. This supply operates on the principle that the load will pull down the voltage. There are dire warnings on the orangepi page about using cheap SD cards, but failed to mention that power supplies have to be matched, too. It has a different CPU than the Orange Pi Zero non-2, the board that is used here. Use the serial interface to configure the board. You're going to be doing all your configuration in a terminal, anyway, so you don't need a monitor or a keyboard. https://www.instructables.com/Setup-Orange-Pi-Using-Serial-Port/ The big downside is that the SPI interface is not supported. My research indicates that in order to get it to work one must jump through some serious hoops and being low on the learning curve, those hoops are probably out of my reach. https://forum.armbian.com/topic/21688-tips-on-configuring-double-spi-through-two-chipselects-on-orange-pi-zero-2/ The armbian OS has another big downside, WiFi is not supported. Putting a TP-Link nano router configured as a client works, but it's another $30! Why did they even release the OS? So! Was anyone successful in getting the Orange Pi Zero 2 configured as a gateway?

I finally got this to work. Unlike what the description here says, this is how to update the value: In Home Assistant, go to Developer->Service->YAML mode: service: text.set_value data: value: "967067" target: entity_id: text.water_meter_100_2 (change 967067 with the value you want to add to the current counter) The service "notify.mysensors" seems to be deprecated by Home Assistant.

@engy Hello. It's why I am using RFM69 as there is no fake :)

I mean the ESP framework version, selected by the board version https://arduino.esp8266.com/Arduino/versions/2.0.0/doc/installing.html#:~:text=Open Boards Manager from Tools,from a drop-down box.

@jeremushka I haven't done it on the smart outlet but I did do it on my "Whole House Fan" project. You can check out the code from that if you're interested. Here is a link to the video if you wanted to check that out: https://youtu.be/KVsUe7sOCPo Also, just make sure you check out the specs on the acs712 and don't pass through more current than is safe. I don't remember the specs off the top of my head but I knew my whole house fan was safe because of what it would be drawing