this kind of optic fiber is probably only plastic so for a full DIY , you can use also fishing wire with a big power led or an old chistmass tree optic fiber lighted.....
@kimot in theory you might be right, but in practice... it just works. The propability of collisions is extremely low and this is, as far as I know, the only problem you can worry about. After all, it was not my idea to use MySensors with RS485:
https://www.mysensors.org/build/rs485
Hi,
nice projet. I am very interested in it.
But why you are using 5 V and not 3.3 V? The ATmea328 works with 3.3 V too and the NRF have to use 3.3 V.
The only restriction on 3.3 V is the clock limitation for the Atmega (8 MHz). But with no crystal it don't care.
For example you could use an HLK-PM03 instead of HLK-PM01 and remove the linear voltage regulator. So you get more space an everything have the same voltage level.
And another point is, it is recommended to use a capacitor (0.1 ยตF) to ground for each voltage pin (Vcc, Avcc, Aref).
@NeverDie Thx for appreciating the work done. There will also be an open source part in the future. When and how extensive the open source part will be, remains to be seen. The release of certain information (block diagram, ..., in this post) is related to those open source parts.
There are some OBD solutions, however most of them (in my experience) give back low frequency data put by the car manufacturer on the OBD-bus (CAN, ...). Therefore transients evolving directly from the battery could only be recorded if the manufacturer sends those data accordingly on the bus. Due to the small bandwidth(also because of other car data that have to be sent, ...), such battery data are sent more often once per second or less. Fast battery events (i.e. cranking events, ...) are therefore imperceptible. Unless the manufacturer processes the fast events and then sends them (once per second or less), which is very unlikely if the manufacturer does not market this feature itself. Third parties devices for high frequency sensing costs several hundreds dollars.
In my experience, important battery states (especially the fast ones) are recorded by measuring and processing corresponding data directly on the battery.
I agree with you about the limits related to the communication over Bluetooth. But i think Bluetooth 5.0 will improve a lot. However, WiFi will always remain an important option due to the high data throughput. The combination of both (BLE & WiFi), especially with regard to energy consumption, will gain in importance.
Hi guys,
I've made MySensors node based on that sketch, but I can't figure out, how to send V_VAR message from Home Assistant to set rollTime. Any ideas? I'm interested in UI number_input or something simmilar.
@zmatokan said in NModule:
@Nca78 Are you still working on this pcbs? i think it would be great to add a version that supports HiLink 220ac->5dc module on powerboard.
No I'm not working on NModules anymore, I have a few old nodes using atmega/nrf24 but I switched to NRF5 for "basic" nodes now, and to ESP32 for more "advanced" stuff.
NModule was designed for beginner and simple/riskless use, so I don't think adding high voltage option is a great idea, it's better to use an external power supply and connect the output to the powerboard.
