What is the max ampere capacity of 3.3V battery it can charge ? Is there any upper limit like 1000mAh or 3300mAh like that ?

In deep Sleep the cunsumption is below 19µA, but i have to send with PA_MAX. On some Windows the open/close frequency is verry high, so the battery is to fast emty. The CR2032 is good, but i want more "lifetime"

@nekitoss I used 3.3V pro mini with regulator removed and powered by Vin pin. Also removed leds from the pro mini. I used minicore bootloader. I used the small pir sensors and again removed the regulator to power directly from the pro mini outputs. After that sleep the node and trigger on interrupt. Send battery level once a day. Use inbuilt battery level monitor and not external components that constantly drain power to get battery level. 1.8V is 0% on the graph (not visible yet!) but I have had nodes working below 1.7V It's a matter of luck with that it seems. Hope this helps you on the right track. I'll try and help if you want. [image: 1697446591518-1ed.jpg] This is the latest image and still going strong after 18 months. Voltage is at 2.903V Here is photo of the test example - I need to make a case and produce more of them over winter..... [image: 1697446939496-20231016_095845.jpg] Here is the same build/code of a window sensor. Similar time frame but hardly triggered..... [image: 1697447658685-2ed.jpg]

You can put 100uf on each ;) even 200uf would not be able to handle only one tx, so.. but you need them at least for coin cells. you would need more capa to handle tx..but the more capa the more time they take for recharging, and the recharging if big, increase internal res of the coin cell and that's not so good too; to prevent this that would need a current resistor limiter..etc a whole balance! On mine for instance, I have 100uF for coincell, 100uF for PIR and 86uf on radio. Fresh varta coincell 3.02V, after multiple presentation tx 2.85V if I remember, not so bad. but that's an homemade pcb. Another notes, it's better to use ceramic capacitor (because of leakage, if you want to optimize), and better smd, but that's not your case I think.

@NeverDie Yes, you are correct - it is based on ATMega1284P. So not relevant My point is that I'd rather stick to the datasheet rather than overclock, but that's just me. And yes I realise that Moteino is overclocking, but the size, voltage and flash are really appealing to me.

@mardah oh... you mean pin change system, not extint. You can use it of course.

Thanks again, learned a lot... I decide to give a try there, I also had a look on some components' datasheet and seems to be what I need... Let's see, if end up getting the boards I'll publish a review here later.

@JahFyahh - I still haven't managed to et round to it. I've been really busy since this project and its still hectic here. I'm sure i read a few reviews somewhere, here or google. Not sure.

Thats perfect.. definitely have to try this.. Thanks!!

Nice! Will be interesting to hear about how long the CR2032 lasts.

@MiKa which box are you referring to? Generic boxes are available here: https://www.mysensors.org/store/boxes

@joaoabs said in 💬 My Slim 2AA Battery Node: Thx! Done!

When you read the data sheet correctly you can see, that the distance between the pins is different for a AA and AAA battery holder. That`s why I was asking if somebody can recommend a holder that fits.

@mickecarlsson , thanks for your answer and help I ordered the NRF24 version So , will cancel it and order RFM69 version Cheers, JC

@fets So far, I have only built the 5x5 board (but the others should be schematically identical). The only issue I have found so far is that I cannot get the ISP port to work. But I have checked and I have an identical setup on the 1.0 board and that worked, so I suspect the programmer is too weak to drive the net on this one. So it is not a board-issue per se, and might only be an issue on the 5x5 board as routing is the most complex on that one due to the size.

@ozrex, I don't want to assume your knowledge level. However the truth is that you will probably need to put together different bits and pieces from various threads in order to come up with your own custom solution (the A/C interface (IR) part, the battery part, etc...). Maybe it is worth it to create your own new thread, or maybe you want to keep researching / trying on your own a little longer first. The latter is admirable, and is the way I usually do it, too. Some times to a fault in my own case. :) Don't suffer along in silence if you are struggling to find the information, make a thread instead. If it becomes too difficult you may give up. We all need some small successes along the way to keep motivated and keep it fun. :) Probably best to create a new thread (I don't want to derail this one too much) but something you might want to look into is OpenMQTTGateway. I use it for my 433mhz, but it also supports RF, BLE, LoRa (and perhaps others in future) all on the same gateway! To me that was the way to go... And so far has been flawless for me.

Thank Sensor ready work. (I have not valid binary Optiboot) [image: 1427989664063-20150402_172032.jpg]

@NeverDie Perhaps but the design is a bit too simple and unoriginal. I'd have to clean up the files a bit and I haven't touched Eagle since I made this board several years ago.

http://forum.mysensors.org/topic/802/mqtt-and-batterylevel/2