@Nca78 FWIW, I used 1.55mm holes. There may be no perfect diameter since we don't even know for sure yet which lens will turn out best.

Hello @reinhold, yes the PCB works, I have assembled one and tested it for basic function (not all buttons and leds) but I have stability problem that comes from the software, I put it aside to do other things and didn't have time to go back to it, if there is some interest for it I will find some time and finish at least a basic script.

Made a first print but setting for this filament are clearly wrong as the print quality sucks :( [image: 1496840779054-imag1745_1-resized.jpeg]

@toyman said in 💬 NModule DC Fan / PWM shield: Can the FET withstand continious 2A load? I have one meter long 5050 strip FDD8447L is rated for 15A continuous load. You don't want to try that because it's possible only with a big pad and 2oz copper PCB, but 2A will not be a problem on this board, there's plenty of margin :) https://isojed.nl/blog/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/FDD8447L.pdf

Hi @blackchart, Unfortunately, all devices are sold out. Further production is possible only when ordering more than 10 devices (in this case, I also can modify the device to suit your needs).

Ok thank you @Nca78

Hello, I'm thinking about upgrading this board to include pinout for LIS3DH breakout board, like this one : https://www.aliexpress.com/item/LIS3DH-Three-Converters-Motion-Accelerometer-Triaxial-Acceleration-Temperature-Sensor-Module-Development-Board-Replace-ADXL345/32840326778.html and ditch the ADXL shield as it's not a good solution, it has either the ADXL345 which uses too much power, or the ADXL362 which is ultra low power but lacks advanced functionality like tap/double tap detection. I would like to have feedback of users on this (do it sound useful ?), and also know if anyone uses the SMD footprints on the board, for leds and for reserve capacitors, as it could be a cleaner board without those footprints. I would make the following changes : put footprint for LIS3DH accelerometer along the "NModule connector" as it has too many pins to put elsewhere keep only one I2C footprint on the side, for "GY-49" MAX44009 light sensor breakout board: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/GY-49-MAX44009-Ambient-Light-Sensor-Module-for-Arduino-with-4P-Pin-Header-Module/32828654450.html temperature/humidity would be via the existing "SMD" footprint, it's not through hole but very easy to solder as it's 2.54mm pad spacing remove SMD footprints for LED, add footprint for through hole reserve capacitor, keep SMD footprints for reserve capacitors only if I have space for them shield would be a bit extended to go over the 2 M2 holes in the "power" part of the NModule, so it could be fitted with spacers and nylon screws and have stable/reliable mechanical connection between NModule and Shield. Basically this would be the footprint of the shield : [image: 1527422033742-c8e52cd0-47fe-4a5e-b6a3-554e216603cc-image.png] So in the end it would make one shield to have Temperature/Humidity/Light/Acceleration or Temperature/Humidity/Light/Door.

@zmatokan said in 💬 NModule: @Nca78 Are you still working on this pcbs? i think it would be great to add a version that supports HiLink 220ac->5dc module on powerboard. No I'm not working on NModules anymore, I have a few old nodes using atmega/nrf24 but I switched to NRF5 for "basic" nodes now, and to ESP32 for more "advanced" stuff. NModule was designed for beginner and simple/riskless use, so I don't think adding high voltage option is a great idea, it's better to use an external power supply and connect the output to the powerboard.

@mtiutiu Wooow Wooow Wooow ! Here they are ! This one gang you designed will be my 1st Livolo hack So many many thanks @mtiutiu Best regards

Sorry. Disregard.

Hello all, I studied a little bit more this part of the circuit and it's a standard self oscillating flyback converter or a ringing choke converter as others call it. Indeed it provides the most compact solution for space constrained designs. But all of this comes at a cost: it's difficult to obtain a stable circuit and it has to be tuned by trial and error - at least this is what the literature says. I'm not a switching power supplies expert here(even though I want to learn more about SMPS's in general but my time is limited for now) but I've come to a conclusion: it's difficult to tune this or to change the existing circuit to accommodate the mysensors circuits power requirements. I tried various combinations using sleep schemes and to change the flyback converter components as other mentioned in the mysensors forum and indeed I can power up my custom design that is presented in this thread BUT it's NOT STABLE. From time to time the switching transistor(mje13003) burns out and this is because I removed the resistor placed at the input of this power supply - near the bridge rectifier and replaced it with a wire(this is not the same resistor as @Lukaspp replaced from the base of the transistor which is the startup resistor for the flyback converter). Now the only purpose that I imagine for this resistor is to suppress the transients - but it has a big value(100Kohm) which limits the current to a non-usable value for our purpose. I know that there are other solutions to overcome the transients but they are either bulky or too slow for this(correct me if I'm wrong here). More than that let's not forget that we have 2 power supplies here and when the lights go on the first supply(flyback) input gets shorted by the relays contact(I have the relays variant btw not the one with triac) so I'm thinking that other transients appear here as the primary inductor doesn't like that as far as I know - so I assume the above mentioned resistor of 100Kohm comes into play here too. Another role for it would be to limit the inrush currents. I played with that value too but it needs to be very low to have something stable and I got a value around 200ohms but that doesn't help as it's too low and after some time the resistor burned up and saved my transistor :simple_smile: . Now with all the tricks in the world and tuning the flyback converter to give more current this won't help as again let's not forget we have a SERIES circuit here so without external intervention we can't achieve that(only if we break somehow the laws of physics or maybe my thinking is limited :simple_smile: ). In this case the external capacitor placed across the light bulb comes into play to supply enough current to the standby circuit which is our flyback converter over here. I played with that one too and from 0,47uF I got to 4.7uF to have a decent result - but this one gets bulky and more expensive from obvious reasons. And let's not forget that the light bulb itself has some impact overall because this is the actual LOAD that we want to control and there are various light bulbs over there with various requirements. More than that they have their power supply embedded which in most of the cases is a(you guessed maybe): a self oscillating FLYBACK CONVERTER or similar. So this one too has inrush currents, transients which are sensed down the line to our dear Livolo switch and affects my custom board stability again :simple_smile: - isn't life beautiful? :simple_smile: So far these are the results of my trials and none of them proved to be stable so I kinda gave up on this and will try to use a normal powering scheme somehow(as Sonoff switches with a battery powered touch switch on the wall). Not the best solution of all but this is what you get when the infrastructure wasn't thought for this scenarios from the beginning. The Livolo guys thought of all of this I assume so that's why they stayed only with a simple circuit - a PIC mcu which maybe sleeps most of the time and a simple radio receiver which draws around 5mA or even less - so yeah that's why this works and it's stable in its original form.

I look forward to seeing photos....

How is this project holding up? Is it still running and was it accurate?

Finally solved a lot of problems and checked a lot of mistakes. But now the first version of this device works almost properly :trollface: [image: 1500843712297-img_2017-07-21_135230-resized.jpeg] I will make a small report in the description asap :)

I think you can just set the I2C pins in MyBoardNRF5.h without remapping the pins in MyBoardNRF5.cpp. Look in MyBoardNRF5.h, under the Wire Interfaces section. Set SDL and SCA to 30 and 31 as appropriate for your board.

@magpern said in 💬 MyQTherm - replace IQTherm heating thermostat: I actually am thinking somewhat in the line of discontinuing mysensors network. It is to much, hacks and tricks, and I forget everything in between sessions. I gave up more than once, also over period of years. Recently I came back again and decided to focus on the heart of the issue, getting my radios working and once you get over that, it starts to get fun again. I can respect if you already moved on to something else. I even cheated on MySensors and installed some 433 mhz devices too :D , just to get something working. You have to keep your interest in HA alive in the meantime. But the reward is great when you get MySensors working. There are "easier" solutions like Tasmota, 433mhz, etc. but not as customizable as MySensors. MySensors is for when you outgrow those other solutions and need something more custom.

I like those relays. Is that 3 different switched outputs? One thing I always liked about european wall switches is that they give you more room for components. I would like to use a similar type of relay for my in-wall switches, but with the way US single gang wall boxes are, there is a pretty narrow space constraint. I might be able to fit it if I did away with the thermal fuse, but I don't want to give up tat bit of added safety just for that.

Hello, I want to build this project. But I don't need to power it by batteries. Has anyone the circuit diagram (in FrizIng?) I have also the problem, that I can't see, on the breadboard picture of this project where the red wire from the battery ends after the connection to the Arduino? Does it go to the FET and the R7? Can anyone help me?

Love the big red button! :heart_eyes:

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