💬 AC-DC double solid state relay module
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I am trying to test a montage which I am not sure about and besides when I plug the pcb on the socket the lamp remains on. I invite you to read my post on the Domoticz forum.
http://easydomoticz.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=20&t=2680&p=25219#p25219I am sorry for my english, I use the traducer of google
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Hi All,
This is my first post on this site!!
Yes this is a really good project but for the UK controlling a light inside of a wall switch you would need to do the following.
Re-wire the ceiling rose as in the UK there is a live feed from the rose that is switched by the switch and then returns to the rose to the "switched live" See http://www.diydoctor.org.uk/project_images/lights_and_switches/ceilingroseb2.jpg
Put an extra cable up to the ceiling rose with the return cable from the board that goes to the switched live and add an extra terminal in the ceiling rose to link the neutral to the other side of the lamp fitting.
If the back box is metal, it would need to be changed to a plastic box , I wouldn't myself want to mount the board in an earthed metal box!!
As other contributors have noted there isn't any fusing on the live and neutral feeds if the SSR were to fail short because of a short circuit in the lamp or ceiling rose then there could be a large current going through board that could potentially cause a fire, safety is always the first thought with any mains electrical circuit.
I could see this board being used in a plastic box inline to a table lamp etc. but it would need a lot of work to re-wire your house if you intended to use it behind a wall switch.
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I am trying to test a montage which I am not sure about and besides when I plug the pcb on the socket the lamp remains on. I invite you to read my post on the Domoticz forum.
http://easydomoticz.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=20&t=2680&p=25219#p25219I am sorry for my english, I use the traducer of google
@laster13 Yes your schema is correct.
The sketch has been modified by Nca78, you can try it first.
The problem does not come from the unused switch, because i use this node without switch. -
@Hilltan Hello, i think this link will be ok : http://dirtypcbs.com/store/details/885/mysensors-v3-3-2-light-switch
For information, a few members have too many PCB of this node that's why if you are living in Vietnam or asia, Nca78 can send you PCB and if you are in france, i can send too (contact by pm for terms).
I use this node since 20 days ago, and it's working well ;)
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@tonnerre33
I will be really interested to buy you all the components you would no longer need. NRF, pcb, fuse thermal ... If you agree, can you tell me a list of what you offer thanks -
hello, anyone use this project with home assistant?
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Thanks for this. One question about the SSR. Does it matter if its a zero crossing relay or not if just switching lamps with fixed amps? That the difference between the G3MB-202P and G3MB-202PL. I'm not sure which to get.
@Paul-Derbyshire if you're buying on aliexpress at less than 3$ a relay, you're buying chinese clones like most of us here. I doubt they bothered implementing the zero-crossing function on the chinese clones...
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Hi,
I love this project. This is almost exactly what I wanted to do by myself (but I have no knowledge in PCB design). As this project shouldn't require much power, have you ever though about using a dropping capacitor PSU (http://www.circuitsgallery.com/2012/07/transformer-less-ac-to-dc-capacitor-power-supply-circuit2.html) instead of the HLK-PM01 ?
If this is a working solution, it would make your project even cheaper.An other question on the DS18B20. Wont the proximity with the relays (heat generators) will disturb the temperature reading ?
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Hi,
I love this project. This is almost exactly what I wanted to do by myself (but I have no knowledge in PCB design). As this project shouldn't require much power, have you ever though about using a dropping capacitor PSU (http://www.circuitsgallery.com/2012/07/transformer-less-ac-to-dc-capacitor-power-supply-circuit2.html) instead of the HLK-PM01 ?
If this is a working solution, it would make your project even cheaper.An other question on the DS18B20. Wont the proximity with the relays (heat generators) will disturb the temperature reading ?
Hello !
Transformerless design means there is not isolation between main voltage and low voltage parts. You can get electrocuted with 110/220V when touching the low voltage side. It means it can be used only in the case of a sealed box.For the temperature sensor the main source of heat is the hlk that heats up a lot. It's purpose is not to sense the temperature in the room, but to monitor the temperature inside the sensor and make sure there is not problem with the hlk overheating.
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Hello !
Transformerless design means there is not isolation between main voltage and low voltage parts. You can get electrocuted with 110/220V when touching the low voltage side. It means it can be used only in the case of a sealed box.For the temperature sensor the main source of heat is the hlk that heats up a lot. It's purpose is not to sense the temperature in the room, but to monitor the temperature inside the sensor and make sure there is not problem with the hlk overheating.
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Would it be possible tot change the relays to one (or two) triacs, keeping it's current features and also allowing it to dim lights?
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found 250V 0.25A o aliexpress - i believe this will be good enough - http://tiny.cc/h4fpiy
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Hi @aproxx , very nice module! Just one question: after studying the board I still not quite understand how an existing light switch needs to be connected. There are 3 connecters, one for AC and two relays. Where do I connect the light switch to?
Cheers! Sacha
@Sacha-Telgenhof : It also took me bit of time. It is the PINs on the board 7 GND 4 for two switches 7 and 4 are the digital inputs on arduino.
