Topics created by marceltrapman

@marceltrapman You could desolder the LEDs and solder some wires or even a header to the pads. Then regular LEDs can be connected to the wires/header. Will require a steady hand though...

@elcaron can you let me know how that stencil is after receiving it?

t862 looks fun thing, i didn't know it. but it's not enclosed?? you can also use the cheap hot plate technique, never tried it though. I have a T962 that i've hacked. works well here (i use only one curve for the moment, the one i set up for my solder paste). Crazy that they sell it, the hack is well known, but they don't apply it! it greatly improves it.

@alowhum MySensors allows customization, which unfortunately makes it very hard to describe the order. An attempt has been made in https://github.com/mysensors/MySensors/issues/927 but we have not found a clear way to document it.

@TimO Apologies for my late reply, I was on a business trip for a couple of days. Will check soon...

@TimO Hmm, why hardcode? I give the sensor a name and version (which is not yet used by the binding if I am correct). I define the children which have ids and types. So, the binding can recognise the parent (name, version) and the child (id, type). I am not yet familiar with the internals of OpenHAB and a binding (maybe I should learn that first ) but I assume (or should I say hope) that you can 'glue' them together on the fly...

@TimO OK, Thank you !

@tbowmo Great. Thanks

@marceltrapman thanks for the information, I too like the milling capability, that seems like a great way to make PCBs!!! Keep us up to speed on your progress. This China printing is not working for me. P.S. If you want I'll give you €175 for your old one... a tidy profit!

@Yveaux OK, I think that this is not how it goes. I moved a sensor from repeater 1 to repeater 2 without seeing it show up anymore. After removing the parent and the distance values from the eprom (what does the distance vaue say btw) the sensor showed up again using the new repeater.

Same here. I had to go up to 5V to power my Arduino Pro Mini 3.3V sufficiently.

@marceltrapman Good question, one in which I have no answer. My sensors typically return ~75% for 2 fully charged AA batteries.

@Zeph said: card edge connector Now we know the 'official' name! Thanks dude I think this one should suffice for a ISP connector: http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/7-5530843-7/A101966-ND/2310829

Only 500m? Search for "nRF24L01 1000m" and you see quite some matches. Is it possible? Yes, using the right antenna's and line of sight it is possible but real world, no way.

@marceltrapman Yes, it is a fact we have to live with. You can look at the return-value if wake-up was triggered by external interrupt or timer. If timer triggered wake-up you know how long the sensor has slept. But if wakeup was triggered by external interrupt there is no way to know how long it slept.

@ivan.todorovich Hi! See this examples how to power it from 220V without tranformer. http://www.designercircuits.com/DesignNote1a.pdf

@lininger said: but was scared to remove the regulator, without asking first. You can't do any harm with this imho. Unless you pull it off without heating the pads first. @Yveaux Nice idea as well...

@marceltrapman said: @royaraya16 said: In my opinion there's no need to use the crystal, you can use de 8MHz internal clock. I have not yet read the article by why is it then that all Arduino boards (that I know of) make use of a crystal? Becauses it is easier, gives a more reliable oscilator (over a wide temperature, and voltage range), and the first arduino was designed with 16Mhz crystal (if I remember correctly). the maximum internal rc osc. is 8Mhz / Thomas

There are 5V and 3.3v digital sensors as well as analog, so making it selectable would add flexibility. Either with jumpers or by using 4 pin connectors with both voltages.

OK, so this was an issue with 1.4b1. The latest development version is ok

This is work in progress: http://www.dorkbotpdx.org/blog/paul/spi_transactions_in_arduino

While you guys are at it, can you also confirm that the PIR module does indeed work as intended on 3.3V input like this guy claims: http://techgurka.blogspot.se/2013/05/cheap-pyroelectric-infrared-pir-motion.html There are a couple of different revisions of the HC-SR501 through so not all of them have actual pins for for H/L selection. Some just have small solder pads. Hi all, does anyone know of an eBay listing that actually ships the HC-SR501 with the pins for H/L selection? I bought some of these: http://www.ebay.com/itm/310574919531, which shows the pins in the pictures and the description mentions being able to select H/L with a jumper, but the ones that arrived don't actually have the pins and have the solder pads instead. Thanks Al

@Yveaux Only for the 3rd issue. I know why it fails, the sensor is not installed. But what I want, I am building my own Indigo plugin (in case you missed that part), is for the plugin to see that it goes wrong so that I can show that in the ui.

No, 30 sec is not so much. I better have a look at that.

@Zeph Yeah, I know, but I didn't want to devote a whole article on baudrate calculation!

You are very welcome of course. There are more suppliers but this one sells many many types, price is ok, quality is very good and shipment rocks

Just in case it's useful to somebody, my current approach is: // Debug PRinting with LiNefeed and maybe Flash strings or 2nd mode param #ifdef DEBUG #define DPR(x) Serial.print(x) #define DPR2(x,m) Serial.print(x,m) #define DPRLIN() Serial.println() #define DPRLN(x) Serial.println(x) #define DPRLN2(x,m) Serial.println(x,m) // saving string in Flash ProgMem #define DPRF(x) Serial.print(F(x)) #define DPRLNF(x) Serial.println(F(x)) #else #define DPR(x) #define DPR2(x,m) #define DPRLIN() #define DPRLN(x) #define DPRLN2(x,m) #define DPRF(x) #define DPRLNF(x) #endif This allows substitute for println() with no args, and for print(val, HEX) type modes as well. I got tired of typing the extra F(...) so added macros to incorporate that too. You can make this into a library to include as a .h file - as a note, you still need a corresponding .c file even if empty.

@C4Vette Thank I will order one

@marceltrapman, using a smart and nice etching process is never something people have an issue with. The point people are trying to make on this thread is that if you can achieve the same results by using a small tank and an inexpensive chemical, why go for an expensive process. There are so many different etching processes available that you can choose from which are cheap enough to be used by anyone. Etching does impact the quality of a PCB but as long as you’re not making expensive antenna PCBs, usual process work fine. electronics assembly

ok now I have a verified case where both an OWL CM180i and the gateway/sensor ? stopped communicating at the same time (12am) and started again at 17pm... both ! There's been no home activity in the between, and I already observed that (what I mentionned above...) a week ago. What those have in common ? sensor and gateway are close together, as is the rfxcom, the CM180i (I have two) are two stairs below, but only one was not reporting... (last time it was both) I've seen in the RFM12/b there is a sniffer to see if there is a canal collision, here we are on different frequency ranges, why would so happen ?

@axillent OK, thank you. I will leave it default then.

@axillent check out the project again. They are really a couple of geeks working towards creating the maximum that is possible within the mix. It looks like they improve things by the hour or so whenever they think something can be improved. To be honest I wish I had the machine on my desk already

Hmm mixing things up big time here I am going to take a break...

@axillent Marcel is developing a MySensor plugin for the indigo controller . http://forum.mysensors.org/topic/62/plugin-for-indigo-for-mac

Any practical experience with Fibaro in mysensors environment?

OK, will do so!

Hmm, ok.

Well, I have had to put the whole MySensors project on ice for a couple of months due to the fact that I am hardly home. Hopefully end of spring I will find some time again...

@hek OK, thanks. It is not a problem but I wanted to be sure

@BulldogLowell said: I have been powering the ProMini with 5V (connect to to the RAW pin) so I can power the sensors at 5V and output 3.3V to the radio. The ProMini... you have to respect that little guy for all it can do, including PWM on 6 pins. Great stuff, you just have to get used to felling like Gulliver in Lilliput when you are working on them. Hmm, I was already looking forward to receiving them. Now even more!

Yes, all variables are cleared before I re-use them which is completely obsolete even because they are defined in the method and the method is called from within a/the loop. I will ask the Indigo gurus about this...

@mitekg Have you converted you sketch to v 1.4?

An answer to this issue can be found here: http://forum.mysensors.org/topic/77/uno-power-issue-previously-different-sensors-sketches-behaving-differently In short it looks like some (in my case all except one) Uno boards seem to under power the 3.3v pin...

I released a new, more stable, version of the plugin: https://github.com/IT2BE/indigo-mysensors/releases/tag/v1.2.179. From the release notes: Added menu item to reset the plugin (all sensors and devices are removed). Improved the way a plugin is added or updated. Fixed an issue with on/off state sensor like the motion sensor.

Thanks, looking forward to that test!

Hi Andriej, I won't do that because I have experienced quite some issues with that frequency. Some of my neighbours use the same frequency and I have had my (kitchen) light go on and off without doing anything (or even being home) too many times with these 2 devices. That is why I decided to re-use their housing but not the technology... But, thank you for the suggestion! Cheers, Marcel