Hardware

• 

  MySensors power consumption
  battery powered • 10 Nov 2014, 22:44 • jonnyfishman   24 Mar 2015, 19:38

  23
  0
  Votes
  23
  Posts
  16.6k
  Views

  24 Mar 2015, 19:38

  Of cource it's powered down - but is his done by a sw-command via SPI (and also the pwr-up) or by transistor ? I'm surprised about the quality of the rNF - the power down seems very good?
• 

  Distance sensor with Display
  24 Mar 2015, 19:15 • Terence Faul   24 Mar 2015, 19:19

  2
  0
  Votes
  2
  Posts
  1.3k
  Views

  24 Mar 2015, 19:19

  Absolutely
• 

  Thermocoupler and MAX31855 calibration ?
  20 Mar 2015, 11:11 • Magiske   21 Mar 2015, 08:49

  4
  0
  Votes
  4
  Posts
  2.8k
  Views

  21 Mar 2015, 08:49

  That lib only supports HW SPI(from what I can see) and I would need it for Pro Mini's. But tried it on a mega, almost same issue. Did some more testing with same result. I checked the datasheets , and from what I can see, it is depending on a stabel reference voltage. Was driving my pro mini with 5v and then regulating it to 3.3v for the MAX31855. So dataline was 5v and max31855 was 3.3. Even if this is within spec the macx31855 board I got was as cheap one, so it did not filter the voltage/data input for the chip.(Looks like the Adafruit board does?) Moving the regulator in front of it all, driving everything with 3.3v it's as stabel as could be expected. Green is a DS18B20, Blue a DHT21 and the black is the ThermoCoupler.
• 

  own sensors and devices
  20 Mar 2015, 02:31 • Timurufa   20 Mar 2015, 02:31

  1
  0
  Votes
  1
  Posts
  868
  Views

  No one has replied

• 

  This topic is deleted!
  17 Mar 2015, 16:09 • chatainsim   17 Mar 2015, 16:09

  1
  0
  Votes
  1
  Posts
  322
  Views

  No one has replied

• 

  antenna alignment
  13 Mar 2015, 23:29 • shabba   14 Mar 2015, 20:52

  5
  0
  Votes
  5
  Posts
  2.6k
  Views

  14 Mar 2015, 20:52

  If the sensor and the gateway are at the same level or about the same level I think using a half-wave dipole or "rubber duck" antenna pointed vertically is a good idea. That will focus the energy in the horizontal plane and not into the ground or to the air giving about 2 dBi of gain.
• 

  Pro Micro?
  13 Mar 2015, 22:44 • ajachierno   14 Mar 2015, 06:58

  3
  0
  Votes
  3
  Posts
  1.7k
  Views

  14 Mar 2015, 06:58

  It is possible to connect the radio, you can find instructions for example here. CE/CSN to any unised digital pin, IRQ not needed. However there are 2 pitfalls: voltage: You need to have 3.3v to power the radio. Pro Micro module is sold in 5V version or 3.3V version. 5V version don't have 3.3V pin output, so you have to arrange that by an external regulator. If you have 3.3V version, then it's fine for the radio, but such board is working on 8MHz, so it's not compatible with Leonardo target in Arduino IDE, you need to have hack that there. MCU there is different than Arduino Uno/Pro Mini, sleep modes are different; someone here reported that sleep is not working with MySensors, you can search here for experience with that. I made some helper PCBs for pro micro, you can check here.
• 

  ATMEGA48V-10PI
  atmega48v • 12 Mar 2015, 20:40 • Mickey   12 Mar 2015, 20:54

  2
  0
  Votes
  2
  Posts
  1.1k
  Views

  12 Mar 2015, 20:54

  @Mickey What would be the use case? One can't do much with 4kB flash on the controller there.
• 

  Design a pcb that has 6 layers
  pcb pcb manufacturi • 9 Mar 2015, 20:11 • Ozal   11 Mar 2015, 18:55

  3
  0
  Votes
  3
  Posts
  1.9k
  Views

  11 Mar 2015, 18:55

  @Ozal I had similar board which **pcbbasket made it for me, the cost was a bit higher, but they made exactly as I wanted. So I recommend them www.pcbbasket.com **
• 

  Another possible board - ATMega328, nRF socket, DHT22 socket, MOSFET, Uno pinout
  board • 19 Jan 2015, 17:18 • Zeph   7 Mar 2015, 19:30

  39
  0
  Votes
  39
  Posts
  19.8k
  Views

  7 Mar 2015, 19:30

  I finally made them work I was not using the right clock for programming, 16MHz instead of 8MHz... Thanks @AWI
• 

  Arduino NRF24L01 simple universal board
  arduino nrf24l01 arduino pro min • 28 Feb 2015, 18:50 • kwest   6 Mar 2015, 08:30

  12
  2
  Votes
  12
  Posts
  8.9k
  Views

  6 Mar 2015, 08:30

  @AWI said: Can you share what is in the box? I am getting curious.. arduino_nrf24l01.rar
• 

  Aluminium Case for MySensors
  sensor wireless case • 4 Mar 2015, 19:28 • allanvbcrew   5 Mar 2015, 09:14

  4
  0
  Votes
  4
  Posts
  2.8k
  Views

  5 Mar 2015, 09:14

  If you look at the Netatmo devices you can see that they have plastic caps and a long plastic notch. I'd bet that the antenna can be found in such an area... I dont think that a small thickness will help to let the radio signal pass. Think of that very thin µ-metal sheet covers on high frequency circuits e.g. in TV or Radio inputs (where you want to stop a radio transmission). They are built to not let radio waves pass and they are thin - so I dont think the thickness plays a major role. As Bulldog wrote paramagnetic blocks radio waves. And aluminum stays paramagnetic even if you reduce the thickness. But I made the experience that relatively small areas, where the radio waves will not get blocked (e.g. plastic caps) can make the difference between no signal and "its working". Also keep in mind that nearly all antennas have a direction. So changing the orienation of the antenna might dramatically change the transmitting capabilties.
• 

  Approved in-wall switches and dimmers
  switch dimmer • 11 Feb 2015, 13:09 • Session   4 Mar 2015, 01:47

  17
  0
  Votes
  17
  Posts
  8.5k
  Views

  4 Mar 2015, 01:47

  @Session Yes, there are plenty of "certified" dimmers that are controlled by PWM or 0-10V input. However, there are also plenty of "certified" LED drivers that you can also use by connecting the (-) negative side of the DC output to the Arduino ground, and the (-) negative side of your LED to the mosfet output. Certification is for the AC part of the Driver. The great thing about the new LEDS is that you can control the DC side and not worry about controlling the AC. You don't need a triac, you don't need a zero crossing detector, simply switch on and off (PWM) the negative side of the DC part of the light.
• 

  Electric Gates Sensor
  27 Feb 2015, 08:58 • shabba   27 Feb 2015, 10:51

  6
  0
  Votes
  6
  Posts
  2.4k
  Views

  27 Feb 2015, 10:51

  @tbowmo The last time I needed a non-standard thread (for a camera tripod-like mount) I had to go to Würth. They charge about an arm and a leg for a few screws, but on the other hand the metal is probably very high-grade and resistant to corrosion.
• 

  RF433MHZ sensor
  24 Feb 2015, 15:00 • Terence Faul   25 Feb 2015, 07:51

  6
  0
  Votes
  6
  Posts
  5.2k
  Views

  25 Feb 2015, 07:51

  I am not sure, I bought some relays from Ebay. If I use the MySensors 433RF Sketch, the receiver recognises the remotes. /* * This sketch demonstrates how to use InterruptChain to receive and * decode remote switches (old and new) and remote sensors. * * Basically, this sketch combines the features of the ShowReceivedCode * and ShowReceivedCodeNewKaku examples of RemoteSwitch and the * ThermoHygroReceiver of RemoteSensor all at the same time! * * After uploading, enable the serial monitor at 115200 baud. * When you press buttons on a 433MHz remote control, as supported by * RemoteSwitch or NewRemoteSwitch, the code will be echoed. * At the same time, if data of a remote thermo/hygro-sensor is * received, as supported by RemoteSensor, it will be echoed as well. * * Setup: * - connect a 433MHz receiver on digital pin 2. * * * MySensor note: This example has not yet been adopted but can be used as an example * of receiving 433Mhz stuff. * * One idea could be to echo received 433 codes back to gateway to be able to pick up and * handle data over there. * */ #include <RemoteReceiver.h> #include <NewRemoteReceiver.h> #include <SensorReceiver.h> #include <InterruptChain.h> void setup() { Serial.begin(115200); // Interrupt -1 to indicate you will call the interrupt handler with InterruptChain RemoteReceiver::init(-1, 2, showOldCode); // Again, interrupt -1 to indicate you will call the interrupt handler with InterruptChain NewRemoteReceiver::init(-1, 2, showNewCode); // And once more, interrupt -1 to indicate you will call the interrupt handler with InterruptChain SensorReceiver::init(-1, showTempHumi); // On interrupt, call the interrupt handlers of remote and sensor receivers InterruptChain::addInterruptCallback(0, RemoteReceiver::interruptHandler); InterruptChain::addInterruptCallback(0, NewRemoteReceiver::interruptHandler); InterruptChain::addInterruptCallback(0, SensorReceiver::interruptHandler); } void loop() { // You can do other stuff here! } // shows the received code sent from an old-style remote switch void showOldCode(unsigned long receivedCode, unsigned int period) { // Print the received code. Serial.print("Code: "); Serial.print(receivedCode); Serial.print(", period: "); Serial.print(period); Serial.println("us."); } // Shows the received code sent from an new-style remote switch void showNewCode(NewRemoteCode receivedCode) { // Print the received code. Serial.print("Addr "); Serial.print(receivedCode.address); if (receivedCode.groupBit) { Serial.print(" group"); } else { Serial.print(" unit "); Serial.print(receivedCode.unit); } switch (receivedCode.switchType) { case NewRemoteCode::off: Serial.print(" off"); break; case NewRemoteCode::on: Serial.print(" on"); break; case NewRemoteCode::dim: Serial.print(" dim level "); Serial.print(receivedCode.dimLevel); break; case NewRemoteCode::on_with_dim: Serial.print(" on with dim level "); Serial.print(receivedCode.dimLevel); break; } Serial.print(", period: "); Serial.print(receivedCode.period); Serial.println("us."); } // Shows the received sensor data void showTempHumi(byte *data) { // is data a ThermoHygro-device? if ((data[3] & 0x1f) == 0x1e) { // Yes! byte channel, randomId; int temp; byte humidity; // Decode the data SensorReceiver::decodeThermoHygro(data, channel, randomId, temp, humidity); // Print temperature. Note: temp is 10x the actual temperature! Serial.print("Temperature: "); Serial.print(temp / 10); // units Serial.print('.'); Serial.println(temp % 10); // decimal } }
• 

  nRF24LE1 full controller to control devices and sensors reading!!
  24 Dec 2014, 18:59 • Timurufa   23 Feb 2015, 07:52

  18
  0
  Votes
  18
  Posts
  12.4k
  Views

  23 Feb 2015, 07:52

  They also make a slightly fatter module with USB: http://www.nordicsemi.com/eng/Products/2.4GHz-RF/nRF24LU1P This puppy does come in 32Kb flash variant.
• 

  Looking for Case, Battery and PCB for Window Sensor with Tempsens and Battery measurement
  1 Feb 2015, 14:05 • PotatoBattery   20 Feb 2015, 10:45

  18
  0
  Votes
  18
  Posts
  5.3k
  Views

  20 Feb 2015, 10:45

  @PotatoBattery You have probably already found the solution for your issue, but for the sake of variety, here is my take on the matter. The battery is a generic lithium phone battery, 2300mAh in this case. The solar cell is a 5,5V, 30mAh one. It is enclosed in resin. The battery charger is a 1A lithium charger with battery protection. I've replaced the programming resistor with a 10k, to better suit the solar cell output current capabilities. The battery gets 15mA, on a sunny day. All the components are from eBay. And you can buy the Arudino board here, on mysensors.org. Everything fit perfectly.
• 

  Video - "Getting Started with the nRF24L01 Transceiver"
  nrf24l01 • 18 Feb 2015, 09:16 • jocke4u   18 Feb 2015, 09:16

  1
  0
  Votes
  1
  Posts
  1.1k
  Views

  No one has replied

• 

  TX RX ERR - LED for Sensors
  5 Feb 2015, 14:07 • Meister_Petz   17 Feb 2015, 12:55

  9
  0
  Votes
  9
  Posts
  4.7k
  Views

  17 Feb 2015, 12:55

  I use something similar mainly to show if messages are received. For this purpose I created a small class/ library to blink and time LED's. The class uses a similar syntax as Bounce2 for assigning and handling LED's attached to output pins. LedFlash. A code example: https://codebender.cc/sketch:85200
• 

  Small Mosfet transistor to high power Mosfet driver
  16 Feb 2015, 18:22 • ceech   16 Feb 2015, 18:22

  1
  1
  Votes
  1
  Posts
  1.1k
  Views

  No one has replied

• 

  Amazon place to buy parts
  store • 14 Feb 2015, 20:46 • Trixcomp   15 Feb 2015, 08:48

  4
  0
  Votes
  4
  Posts
  1.9k
  Views

  15 Feb 2015, 08:48

  @Trixcomp said: 10-Best-Electronics-Suppliers What's best... for who? US residents? Naa. we've cannot just focus on US when it comes to parts. And I'm from Sweden actually. Last month visits:
• 

  External power supply to radio
  7 Feb 2015, 20:14 • gigi   13 Feb 2015, 10:24

  14
  0
  Votes
  14
  Posts
  9.4k
  Views

  13 Feb 2015, 10:24

  @ServiceXp said: I just can't believe that the display, rfm12b and NRF24 on the same 3.3v rail is under 50ma,... not too mention the other stuff on it.. You could try disconnecting everything except the NRF24 and see what happens? I can't even get my NRF24's to work with the shop's listed boost with the Pro Mini attached without a 'massive' capacitor. I tried to put a separate power supply. General supply 5V 2 Amps. I do not have the controller and I put two arduino nano for 3.3 volts after 2 hours the system crashes. if I put only one of the two radio system is fine. I tried it with a standalone with two radio but without a monitor and the system works perfectly!!! I have to put other capacitors? Thank
• 

  PCB Prototype Machine
  11 Feb 2015, 15:49 • hek   13 Feb 2015, 05:28

  8
  0
  Votes
  8
  Posts
  2.5k
  Views

  13 Feb 2015, 05:28

  @blacey said: So many toys, so little time ...and money....
• 

  Leapmotion
  10 Feb 2015, 18:29 • hek   11 Feb 2015, 12:05

  10
  0
  Votes
  10
  Posts
  2.9k
  Views

  11 Feb 2015, 12:05

  @Johnny-B-Good We have to wait for the standalone version.
• 

  Hardware debugging
  10 Feb 2015, 13:12 • axillent   10 Feb 2015, 13:12

  1
  1
  Votes
  1
  Posts
  742
  Views

  No one has replied

• 

  MQTT Gateway and Relay Status
  29 Jan 2015, 10:45 • xefil   9 Feb 2015, 14:48

  6
  0
  Votes
  6
  Posts
  2.9k
  Views

  9 Feb 2015, 14:48

  @hek It works to have a feedback from the sensor, but this doesn't give a status if someone acts on the relay manually. BTW I've tested a similar approach. I send from the sensor a custom variable with the status of the relay. @gadu This is the best approach. This could handle the status of the relay even if manual activated. The return of the signal always give us the relay position. But it needs a different dual stepper relay. I'll try this as well soon. Thanks a lot to all! Simon
• 

  One way on how to reuse 433MHZ alarming sensors for Mysensors
  8 Feb 2015, 01:51 • axillent   8 Feb 2015, 16:22

  5
  1
  Votes
  5
  Posts
  4.2k
  Views

  8 Feb 2015, 16:22

  i see a bug, been without a motion events for a while it is stop working at the same time it can work for a while in case of motion events hmm... fix needed but it is just a prototype. I plan to support 4-6 types of sensors (at least types I have with my security system). Currently only motion sensors are supportde (actually any alert sensor can be treated as a motion sensor but it will be better to differentiate) double radio transmittion is also not good, will be better to have an ethernet gateway directly working with RF433 This way I'm connecting very simple RF433 sensors one way (alert is comming from sensor to home controller). Same idea but different hardware and different sketch are needed to soport RF433 relays and wall switches. #include <avr/eeprom.h> #include <SPI.h> #include <MySensor.h> #include <DHT.h> #include <RCSwitch.h> #define CHILD_ID_HUM 0 #define CHILD_ID_TEMP 1 #define HUMIDITY_SENSOR_DIGITAL_PIN 3 unsigned long SLEEP_TIME = 30000; // Sleep time between reads (in milliseconds) MySensor gw; DHT dht; float lastTemp; float lastHum; boolean metric = true; MyMessage msgHum(CHILD_ID_HUM, V_HUM); MyMessage msgTemp(CHILD_ID_TEMP, V_TEMP); RCSwitch mySwitch = RCSwitch(); #define RF433_CHILDS_MAX 20 typedef struct { unsigned long key; uint8_t child_id; } rf433_child_type; uint8_t *eeprom_last_id = (uint8_t*)EEPROM_LOCAL_CONFIG_ADDRESS; rf433_child_type *eeprom_rf433_array = (rf433_child_type*)EEPROM_LOCAL_CONFIG_ADDRESS+1; unsigned long dht_period; void setup() { gw.begin(); dht.setup(HUMIDITY_SENSOR_DIGITAL_PIN); mySwitch.enableReceive(0); // Receiver on inerrupt 0 => that is pin #2 digitalWrite(5, HIGH); // Send the Sketch Version Information to the Gateway gw.sendSketchInfo("Humidity", "1.0"); // Register all sensors to gw (they will be created as child devices) gw.present(CHILD_ID_HUM, S_HUM); gw.present(CHILD_ID_TEMP, S_TEMP); metric = gw.getConfig().isMetric; } void loop() { if(digitalRead(5)) { Serial.println("-- enetered RF433 init mode"); unsigned long t = millis(); while(millis() - t < 60000) { if (mySwitch.available()) { unsigned long key = mySwitch.getReceivedValue(); mySwitch.resetAvailable(); uint8_t child_id = rf_find_child(key); Serial.print("--- child_id - "); if(child_id == 255) { // key is not presented in EEPROM uint8_t last_id = rf_get_last_id(); if(last_id < RF433_CHILDS_MAX) { // a new id should be created rf433_child_type child; // prepare data to be stored in eeprom child.key = key; child.child_id = last_id + 2; eeprom_write_block(&child, &eeprom_rf433_array[last_id], sizeof(child)); // store new last_id last_id++; rf_set_last_id(last_id); Serial.print("new "); Serial.println(last_id); gw.present(child.child_id, S_MOTION); } else { // no more space in EEPROM Serial.println("no space"); } } else { // existing key Serial.println(child_id); gw.present(child_id, S_MOTION); } break; } } Serial.println("-- left RF433 init mode"); } if (mySwitch.available()) { // motion event unsigned long key = mySwitch.getReceivedValue(); mySwitch.resetAvailable(); uint8_t child_id = rf_find_child(key); Serial.print("-- rf key "); Serial.print(key); Serial.print(" child_id "); Serial.println(child_id); if(child_id != 255) { MyMessage msg(child_id, V_TRIPPED); gw.send(msg.set("1")); // Send tripped value to gw delay(2000); gw.send(msg.set("0")); } } if(dht_period < millis()) { //delay(dht.getMinimumSamplingPeriod()); float temperature = dht.getTemperature(); if (isnan(temperature)) { Serial.println("Failed reading temperature from DHT"); } else if (temperature != lastTemp) { lastTemp = temperature; if (!metric) { temperature = dht.toFahrenheit(temperature); } gw.send(msgTemp.set(temperature, 1)); Serial.print("T: "); Serial.println(temperature); } float humidity = dht.getHumidity(); if (isnan(humidity)) { Serial.println("Failed reading humidity from DHT"); } else if (humidity != lastHum) { lastHum = humidity; gw.send(msgHum.set(humidity, 1)); Serial.print("H: "); Serial.println(humidity); } //gw.sleep(SLEEP_TIME); //sleep a bit dht_period = millis() + SLEEP_TIME; } } uint8_t rf_get_last_id() { uint8_t x = eeprom_read_byte(eeprom_last_id); if(x == 255) x = 0; return x; } void rf_set_last_id(uint8_t last_id) { eeprom_write_byte(eeprom_last_id, last_id); } uint8_t rf_find_child(unsigned long key) { uint8_t last_id = rf_get_last_id(); uint8_t id = 0; while(id != last_id) { rf433_child_type child; eeprom_read_block(&child, &eeprom_rf433_array[id], sizeof(child)); if(child.key == key) return child.child_id; } return 255; }
• 

  Keypads
  28 Jan 2015, 09:38 • gadu   4 Feb 2015, 16:04

  6
  0
  Votes
  6
  Posts
  3.9k
  Views

  4 Feb 2015, 16:04

  I'm actually working on a mySensor KeyPad node, but currently i'm struggling with a generic solution to read/write eeprom configurations controlled by the gateway. Maybe i'll ask for help in this forum in near future for future.
• 

  PIN 12 broken .... Could I use another pin instead?
  2 Feb 2015, 10:53 • Meister_Petz   4 Feb 2015, 09:46

  3
  0
  Votes
  3
  Posts
  1.3k
  Views

  4 Feb 2015, 09:46

  Worked! Many Thanks
• 

  5V arduino pro mini battery powered - help needed
  28 Jan 2015, 02:22 • brad.s   28 Jan 2015, 12:12

  3
  0
  Votes
  3
  Posts
  3.1k
  Views

  28 Jan 2015, 12:12

  I'd use a DCDC Step up converter (there is a 1-5V to V mentioned in the MySensors shop). For a 5V device I'd not connect directly to the batteries, because the voltage might drop below 5V although the batteries are still far away from beeing empty. You don't want your approach with the diodes (or any other linear voltage regulator) because it wastes expensive energy to produce heat (In order to get the higher voltage down). With 3.3V Device I'd (and will in the near future ) try to just use two batteries (without regulator). They'll have 3V max. Voltage and Adrduino Pro mini / nrf24l01 work down to 1.9V - so most if not all of the charge from the battery can be used. (rechargeable batteries shouldn't go below 0.8V so this fits quiet nicely (2*0.85 = 1.9). Additionally I think it might be easier to use the 3.3 V Arduino over the 5V, because more lowpower people use it and because the power consumption typically drops if you use less voltage as long as we are talking about some mA. E.g. Modern CPUs are working <1V to keep down the (thermal) losses. As a last sentence: Designing real low power and battery applications is hard work. It is dependet on sofware but also -maybe somewhat more- on hardware. You must design/find a power supply that matches the application very well and have to think of the parts of your sensor/circuit you can / must switch off. Maybe some of them must be switched off in hardware (cut power supply). Then it is part of the software to re-enable them in the correct sequence and with proper startup times to have everything work. However for a start I'd recommend to try the mentioned ste up converter. But I fear it has a relative large quiescent current because it is able to deliver 500mA which is much. Maybe someone else knows some modules that suit better and have a defined quiescent current. Best regards DirkH
• 

  more types of actuators
  linear actuator automatic gate pop up tv • 24 Jan 2015, 21:53 • brettzky84   25 Jan 2015, 00:25

  3
  0
  Votes
  3
  Posts
  1.4k
  Views

  25 Jan 2015, 00:25

  Thanks I'll keep that in mind. But You can never have enough toys and are as common as stepper motors are around an everyday home but open up new possibilities. Sure you could build it though, but having a community working as one is progress
• 

  A kickstarter project maybe helpfull to make nodes...
  22 Jan 2015, 09:04 • legeantvert   23 Jan 2015, 11:25

  4
  0
  Votes
  4
  Posts
  1.8k
  Views

  23 Jan 2015, 11:25

  @epierre as a battery operated solution I use li-fe battery's they have a lower voltage per cell then lion and lipo so there is no need for any type of voltage regulation witch makes it simple. I just need to watch out not to over discharge the battery, but with 3Ah on a temp/hum sensor that will not be much of a problem OT: seems like a very interesting board with lots of function and usefull stuff. But for $25 I would mutch rather throw my own hardware on a breadboard or protoboard or something.
• 

  Handy Serial Gateway for testing.
  raspberry serial gatewayc • 22 Jan 2015, 06:42 • Dheeraj   22 Jan 2015, 06:42

  1
  2
  Votes
  1
  Posts
  1.2k
  Views

  No one has replied

• 

  Is the arduino nano capable of
  7 Jan 2015, 05:11 • singhm29   20 Jan 2015, 09:31

  10
  0
  Votes
  10
  Posts
  5.4k
  Views

  20 Jan 2015, 09:31

  @diamantmatch It was just the optocoupler approach to control 12V dc from arduino that caught my attention. It's enough with a simple transistor driver to control it. And yes, always have a diode in reverse across the relay coil. If it's 12V relays, you probably already use the same 12V supply to power both relays, and the arduino (maybe with a voltage regulator for providing 5V to the arduino from the 12V rail), and then the optocoupler approach is defeated, as they have a common ground.
• 

  The new ESP8266 WIFI models
  11 Oct 2014, 11:47 • Francois   20 Jan 2015, 07:42

  20
  0
  Votes
  20
  Posts
  19.9k
  Views

  20 Jan 2015, 07:42

  @gregl I have messed about with them too, but it seems for me they are not-ready-for-primetime, but with some hard-knocking effort you can get it to do some basic things. Smart guys will develop a great library and it will all come together, I am sure. Spark Core is my new favorite. After sitting on the bench from last year's initial shipment, I finally got to play with it. It is amazing with its tremendous out of the box capabilities. The Photon (which ships april) is only US$19, has 1 Mb of FLASH and 128 Kb of RAM, moving at 120Mhz... wow! Way overkill for a motion sensor, but it brings a lot of life to the world of Home Automation for a small price. ($10 for a surface mount version!!!) I'm in the process of moving my Vera auxiliary controller project over to spark... I'll re-post the wireless version as soon as I can get it in a proper box.
• 

  PCB design and production
  pcb production design • 9 Jul 2014, 23:22 • jendrush   16 Jan 2015, 23:44

  17
  0
  Votes
  17
  Posts
  7.6k
  Views

  16 Jan 2015, 23:44

  @ferpando @rosskinard Has anyone made any headway on this project?
• 

  Relay for PCB relay node
  9 Jan 2015, 21:54 • johnr   13 Jan 2015, 09:36

  13
  0
  Votes
  13
  Posts
  5.5k
  Views

  13 Jan 2015, 09:36

  @hek said: @bluman Candidate for the project contest perhaps? If all my parts turn up from China in time then it should be ready to submit for judging!
• 

  Relay & Sensor Battery powered
  7 Jan 2015, 10:57 • Meister_Petz   11 Jan 2015, 12:01

  6
  0
  Votes
  6
  Posts
  2.3k
  Views

  11 Jan 2015, 12:01

  For the size and cost I think you better chose an AC powered device. Additional to the link posted by @m26872, @petewill just posted full instructions on how to build this on $8 Lamp (Outlet) "Smart Plug" Module
• 

  Using NO magnetic switches instead of NC
  10 Jan 2015, 00:41 • pete1450   11 Jan 2015, 03:27

  9
  0
  Votes
  9
  Posts
  2.6k
  Views

  11 Jan 2015, 03:27

  @gregl said: I think the main reason why most door/window switches are usually NC is so that should a burglar gain access to the wires to the sensor and cup/snip them the alarm would be tripped. Of course in this type of use batteries are not a consideration.... Back to mysensors.... i too like the status sent periodically so i know if a sensor is alive or dead. Fair point. When it really comes down to it, I got started thinking about this in relation to a mailbox sensor. I want to put it there and not touch it for a year. It's flippin cold in Tennessee right now.
• 

  one more nano computer - black swift
  10 Jan 2015, 20:59 • axillent   11 Jan 2015, 00:09

  5
  0
  Votes
  5
  Posts
  1.5k
  Views

  11 Jan 2015, 00:09

  @tbowmo said: Hmm only 64MB of ram, and 400Mhz cpu. Seems very small, still it could run a limited Linux system it is designed for openWRT
• 

  Power usage with a Pro Mini as sensor node(Humidity & Temperature!)
  7 Jan 2015, 14:54 • Magiske   8 Jan 2015, 09:29

  12
  0
  Votes
  12
  Posts
  4.9k
  Views

  8 Jan 2015, 09:29

  Most will be of the DS18B20 kind. But still, a good silicone sealant around the sensor should still make it watertight. /M
• 

  SparkCore MCU support for MySensors
  1 Jan 2015, 02:36 • sdndba   1 Jan 2015, 02:36

  1
  0
  Votes
  1
  Posts
  784
  Views

  No one has replied

• 

  Nice little Arduino
  30 Dec 2014, 16:43 • Nicola Reina   30 Dec 2014, 16:43

  1
  0
  Votes
  1
  Posts
  851
  Views

  No one has replied

• 

  Pro Mini Adjustable
  1 Nov 2014, 19:07 • Terence Faul   24 Dec 2014, 21:55

  5
  0
  Votes
  5
  Posts
  2.8k
  Views

  24 Dec 2014, 21:55

  Works fine for me at 3.3V and 16Mhz. Have not had any problems whatsoever.
• 

  Multiple repeater nodes
  repeater module • 18 Dec 2014, 14:12 • boozz   19 Dec 2014, 14:42

  3
  0
  Votes
  3
  Posts
  3.0k
  Views

  19 Dec 2014, 14:42

  Thnx. Any specific hints how to do that with this hardware; I will try to get this working with a few pro-mini's as relay, I might have missed this on the educational pages here, but I'm wondering how to start the network / do the roll-out. "The first time a new sensor boots up" section tells me something about that it will find it's way home (which is great, must have cost some time to get this programmed I guess), but my challenge at the moment is to find out how to get this done effectively. Should I start with the gateway and see how far I can get with a single node and replace it at that position with a repaeter node, or can I simply place some repeaters and check with a serial monitor that they contact the gateway? Thanks, Boozz
• 

  A compendium of hardware boards to support MySensor nodes
  19 Jul 2014, 17:28 • Zeph   16 Dec 2014, 02:40

  9
  0
  Votes
  9
  Posts
  8.5k
  Views

  16 Dec 2014, 02:40

  @funky81 See the link near the top of the (edited) original post, to a thread which follows up on this one. For board designs created by the community, that thread going to be more up to date (and it tracks some information about what's available). This thread was earlier, but lists commercial options as well, so it's still of some value. I'm thinking to let the other thread keep up with community designs, but if you know of a good commercial offering for our purposes, please leave a reply and I'll add it to the list here.
• 

  How long a cable can one have between the uC and a sensor?
  sensor cabling • 14 Dec 2014, 16:53 • Zeph   16 Dec 2014, 02:33

  4
  0
  Votes
  4
  Posts
  3.0k
  Views

  16 Dec 2014, 02:33

  I'm thinking of 4 PIR sensors (at each end of the two aisles). And I was thinking of a reed switch at the top of the garage door opening, and one at the door into the house. And the most convenient location for the relays controlling the lights is still a 7th location. I could put 7 wireless nodes into the garage, but then I have to run power to all of them - if 5v we still have the same long wire issues, if 120VAC then I need 7 power supplies. And the local control now involves passing messages between nodes rather than just sensing input pins and controlling output pins on the same uC. The cables supply power to the RF enabled nodes will have the same length (whether DC or AC power) as the cables going to a simple sensor, and follow the same routes. So it would be possible to do that, but at considerable cost in money and time and complexity - compared to just running a three or 4 wire cable from the main node to a $2 PIR located 1o-20 feet away, if that can easily be made to work (perhaps with the addition of a couple of small, cheap passive components. I don't know if I do need to worry about inductance, capacitance, reflections etc - that's why I'm asking. These things aren't usually specified one way or the other - you kind of need some practical experience. If those are indeed killers that cannot be fixed with a couple of passives, then I may go to the "make every sensor a full node with AC power supply and distribute AC to them instead" route. But wouldn't it be nice if I can do a $2 easy fix instead? One data point - in the Do It Yourself Christamas lighting control community, they routinely get away with sending TTL or CMOS signals quite a ways from a control unit to an optoisolator input (which controls a Triac to form a SSR which does PWM dimming of an AC circuit). The signals are just a 120 Hz PWM signal but the edge timing is at 120Hz * 256 PWM divisions. You won't find much about driving a 50' cable from a TTL or CMOS output in the datasheets, but it works in this application! It would not work if you were sending a 1 Mbps signal tho. So I have some hope that a PIR 20 feet down a cable may be able to pass back a quite usable logic signal, since it changes rather rarely. But I was hoping for some advice about the gotchas. Remember the sensors I've mentioned are magnetic reed switches, LDRs, and PIR sensors - only the latter needs power per se separate from the signal.
• 

  importing graphics to eagle
  13 Dec 2014, 15:27 • tbowmo   13 Dec 2014, 22:26

  3
  0
  Votes
  3
  Posts
  1.5k
  Views

  13 Dec 2014, 22:26

  @daulagari Thanks It worked, and I have logos on my next sensor pcb.. Had googled all the things that came to my mind before throwing the question in here, but I haven't seen that page before..
• 

  Trouble flashing Arduino Pro Mini with a sketch
  pro mini sketch • 29 Nov 2014, 13:05 • CaptainZap   9 Dec 2014, 19:56

  16
  0
  Votes
  16
  Posts
  8.7k
  Views

  9 Dec 2014, 19:56

  I apologize if you are aware of this, but are you pressing the reset button once the sketch is ready to transmit? Using a sparkfun FTDI board with knockoff pro minis, I press the reset button as soon as the first TX light blinks on serial board. If I don't: similar errors.
• 

  Setting up toolchain for ESP8266
  8 Dec 2014, 20:41 • hek   9 Dec 2014, 05:34

  2
  0
  Votes
  2
  Posts
  1.4k
  Views

  9 Dec 2014, 05:34

  At the bottom of the linked article it says... Edit: [CNLohr] points out there’s a more preferred toolchain that most people have switched to. https://github.com/esp8266/esp8266-wiki/wiki/Toolchain
• 

  Items in the store
  store • 7 Dec 2014, 01:31 • C.r.a.z.y.   7 Dec 2014, 08:48

  2
  0
  Votes
  2
  Posts
  1.1k
  Views

  7 Dec 2014, 08:48

  @C.r.a.z.y. I usually add store links directly from the build pages that is related to the example. On the main "store" there is a lot of items just for inspiration. Not all have ready-to-use MySensors Arduino examples.
• 

  Interrupt on recieve radio data
  battery powered interrupt • 3 Dec 2014, 20:43 • jonnyfishman   6 Dec 2014, 19:18

  14
  0
  Votes
  14
  Posts
  9.9k
  Views

  6 Dec 2014, 19:18

  @jonnyfishman said: would it be better to trigger the callback manually to pick up a response? No that won't help (as long as you call gw.process() ).
• 

  Disable external module to preserve battery life
  battery powered module • 3 Dec 2014, 23:52 • jonnyfishman   3 Dec 2014, 23:52

  1
  0
  Votes
  1
  Posts
  1.2k
  Views

  No one has replied

• 

  Non Polarized Capacitor .22 uF rated 400 volt
  30 Nov 2014, 18:32 • Hausner   1 Dec 2014, 11:22

  5
  0
  Votes
  5
  Posts
  1.7k
  Views

  1 Dec 2014, 11:22

  The plan is to make some LED lights without the need for a wall plug transformer, as they take up space and are fairly hard to hide away. So I'm planning to make some small 220vac->12/5vdc converters with as little components as possible. Link to plan: http://www.instructables.com/id/LED-TUBE-LGHT-AC/
• 

  Arduino with ethernet shield direct connect to openhab without NFR
  22 Nov 2014, 15:54 • MarkV   30 Nov 2014, 18:31

  3
  0
  Votes
  3
  Posts
  2.2k
  Views

  30 Nov 2014, 18:31

  Depending on what gateway you use, another solution could be to implement an MQTT client on Arduino, see http://knolleary.net/arduino-client-for-mqtt/
• 

  Semtech SX1276 long range tranceiver
  25 Nov 2014, 07:32 • korttoma   25 Nov 2014, 16:10

  2
  0
  Votes
  2
  Posts
  2.1k
  Views

  25 Nov 2014, 16:10

  this is a HopeRf chipset, there is a post on supporting RFM12b already
• 

  my serial gateway
  serialgateway • 24 Nov 2014, 20:14 • dzairo   24 Nov 2014, 20:14

  1
  2
  Votes
  1
  Posts
  1.1k
  Views

  No one has replied

• 

  Gateway/sensor Range Advice
  22 Nov 2014, 17:48 • Dan S.   24 Nov 2014, 15:23

  13
  0
  Votes
  13
  Posts
  5.9k
  Views

  24 Nov 2014, 15:23

  @BulldogLowell That's exactly right. You stated it more clearly than I did. It's not a problem if you're careful in how you set up your if test but its does warrant a warning to be careful in that regard to anyone using mills() for timing their sensor reads.
• 

  This topic is deleted!
  22 Nov 2014, 12:47 • MarkV   22 Nov 2014, 12:47

  1
  0
  Votes
  1
  Posts
  7
  Views

  No one has replied

• 

  Possible solution for energy mettering
  20 Nov 2014, 10:39 • axillent   21 Nov 2014, 17:23

  7
  1
  Votes
  7
  Posts
  4.2k
  Views

  21 Nov 2014, 17:23

  @axillent Awesome!
• 

  Touch-less Gesture Controller
  15 Nov 2014, 15:48 • meanpenugin   15 Nov 2014, 15:48

  1
  0
  Votes
  1
  Posts
  729
  Views

  No one has replied

• 

  RGBW LED strip current
  led rgbw • 15 Nov 2014, 13:04 • jocke4u   15 Nov 2014, 13:04

  1
  0
  Votes
  1
  Posts
  2.1k
  Views

  No one has replied

• 

  LED Light is getting very hot
  17 Oct 2014, 19:08 • petewill   14 Nov 2014, 22:31

  13
  0
  Votes
  13
  Posts
  9.2k
  Views

  14 Nov 2014, 22:31

  Just got some parts and did some more testing on this so I thought I'd post a reply. The good news is there appears to be a cheap fix. As @Hoffan suggested I did some research on LED drivers. I found this one to work in my testing so far: http://www.ebay.com/itm/181113937482. I have plugged it in directly to the 12V source for 3 hours and it gets warm (maybe 100 degrees Fahrenheit) but by no means hot. I still need to connect it into my sensor and get it working with PWM. My plan is to limit the current before the MOSFET. I hope it works! Thanks again for all the help and suggestions!
• 

  Selecting Arduni Pro Mini model ???
  30 Oct 2014, 18:23 • A Former User   14 Nov 2014, 18:36

  5
  0
  Votes
  5
  Posts
  1.5k
  Views

  14 Nov 2014, 18:36

  ATmega328 is 8 bit.
• 

  Motion, Temperature and Relay in 1 node
  13 Nov 2014, 17:26 • Hausner   14 Nov 2014, 14:58

  5
  0
  Votes
  5
  Posts
  2.9k
  Views

  14 Nov 2014, 14:58

  Cool This is my initial sketch, but i'm still tuning it. http://forum.mysensors.org/topic/597/motion-relay-sensor-sketch-help I need to figure out only to send GW messages on an update.
• 

  nrf24l01 problem
  11 Nov 2014, 17:26 • kihotx   11 Nov 2014, 17:26

  1
  0
  Votes
  1
  Posts
  1.1k
  Views

  No one has replied

• 

  Possible to use different D pins for radio?
  lcd • 9 Nov 2014, 19:45 • Muxje   9 Nov 2014, 20:13

  2
  0
  Votes
  2
  Posts
  1.2k
  Views

  9 Nov 2014, 20:13

  Search for SoftSPI.
• 

  Help to Beginner..
  sensor board rc 8mhz • 6 Nov 2014, 21:00 • dzairo   8 Nov 2014, 21:04

  10
  0
  Votes
  10
  Posts
  6.6k
  Views

  8 Nov 2014, 21:04

  Hi.... hehe... I must decode it from source code?? hmmmm... interesting... where I need to write my question? power down mode .. every 1 sec wake up .. using timer2 32kHy crystal 2.make sensor with more sensor type in one device .. for example .. temperature , energy meter, bin input state.. etc..
• 

  look at this...
  3 Nov 2014, 11:44 • Nicola Reina   3 Nov 2014, 12:32

  3
  0
  Votes
  3
  Posts
  1.2k
  Views

  3 Nov 2014, 12:32

  Hmm.. it's microchip processors.. Almost a naughty word in my surroundings (I'm a member of a small group of atmel geeks :))
• 

  Sourcing electronic components (SMD) from Ebay/AliExpress
  aliexpress china sourcing components • 21 Oct 2014, 14:30 • bjornhallberg   29 Oct 2014, 08:36

  8
  0
  Votes
  8
  Posts
  6.2k
  Views

  29 Oct 2014, 08:36

  I have some 50pcs sample 1206 10uF ceramic caps that I got from AliExpress the other day. Purported to be X7R. I measured them (7 of them at least, it's tiresome to pick them up with pincers from the reel and put them back) with my DMM and they all checked in at between 9.5 and 10.1 uF or so. After having soldered two of them for prototyping, and heated them somewhat obviously, they measured at about 10.5 uF so not much of a change either. Is this information enough to say that the rating for these caps is good enough? Can't prove that is is X7R or whatever I mean, but that they at least can't be bottom of the barrel so to speak ...
• 

  UNO3 with ATMEGA8A-PU
  25 Oct 2014, 14:03 • Terence Faul   28 Oct 2014, 13:06

  2
  0
  Votes
  2
  Posts
  1.4k
  Views

  28 Oct 2014, 13:06

  Unfortunately I think that the memory is to small on that device. It only has 8Kb of flash, whereas the 328 has 32Kb. Actually the 328 is (more or less) a atmega8 with 32Kb flash instead of 8 (same pinout, if my memory is correct) / Thomas
• 

  FTDI <=> Arduino Pro Mini
  22 Sept 2014, 12:08 • jocke4u   28 Oct 2014, 07:01

  19
  0
  Votes
  19
  Posts
  13.5k
  Views

  28 Oct 2014, 07:01

  @gregl said: i think on mine the solder pads are bridged... but i will check. I am pretty sure it's the same (5V as default) for me but will double check.
• 

  433Mhz devices
  22 Oct 2014, 12:18 • Terence Faul   26 Oct 2014, 16:55

  8
  0
  Votes
  8
  Posts
  7.2k
  Views

  26 Oct 2014, 16:55

  The Radiohead Library should have support for multiple types of RF modules BTW- http://www.airspayce.com/mikem/arduino/RadioHead/index.html
• 

  Low-cost WIFI modules as alternative
  wifi module low-cost • 22 Oct 2014, 23:26 • Diego Baravalle   23 Oct 2014, 18:23

  3
  0
  Votes
  3
  Posts
  4.7k
  Views

  23 Oct 2014, 18:23

  @soward said: these were covered to some extent in another topic FYI: http://forum.mysensors.org/topic/479/the-new-esp8266-wifi-models
• 

  Dimable Light relays
  22 Oct 2014, 20:24 • Terence Faul   22 Oct 2014, 21:25

  4
  0
  Votes
  4
  Posts
  1.4k
  Views

  22 Oct 2014, 21:25

  I saw an example sketch on how to control the module the linked page. You can use the LED dimmer example on mysesnors to set/receive dim-level from controller. Yes, you could use your regular wall-switched as input to an arduino (disconnected from AC), but you would probably not be able to fit the electronics behind the switch. Working with AC is dangerous. You need to know what you are doing!
• 

  Custom board with ATmega328 and crystal (or not)
  21 Sept 2014, 20:49 • marceltrapman   22 Oct 2014, 20:19

  6
  0
  Votes
  6
  Posts
  3.7k
  Views

  22 Oct 2014, 20:19

  @marceltrapman said: @royaraya16 said: In my opinion there's no need to use the crystal, you can use de 8MHz internal clock. I have not yet read the article by why is it then that all Arduino boards (that I know of) make use of a crystal? Becauses it is easier, gives a more reliable oscilator (over a wide temperature, and voltage range), and the first arduino was designed with 16Mhz crystal (if I remember correctly). the maximum internal rc osc. is 8Mhz / Thomas
• 

  RFduino board
  pcb board rfduino • 19 Oct 2014, 02:18 • niccodemi   22 Oct 2014, 09:06

  3
  0
  Votes
  3
  Posts
  2.3k
  Views

  22 Oct 2014, 09:06

  RFduino uses BLE (Bluetooth Low Energy). While this is also 2.4GHz it's not compatible with nRF24L01 in terms of protocol.
• 

  2 AA batteries with step up converter to Vcc pin VS 3 AA batteries to RAW pin
  13 Oct 2014, 00:00 • hooraysimpsons   21 Oct 2014, 20:54

  23
  0
  Votes
  23
  Posts
  17.9k
  Views

  21 Oct 2014, 20:54

  @Rek said: Does anyone have the spec sheet for the Chinese step up regulator? I bought a few of these to test http://www.pololu.com/product/2561 My guess is that it is or is similar to the 2108A in SOT89-3 described here: http://fullmany.com/Upload/file/ME2108%20series-E8_0.pdf
• 

  This topic is deleted!
  21 Oct 2014, 09:48 • Giango   21 Oct 2014, 09:48

  1
  0
  Votes
  1
  Posts
  21
  Views

  No one has replied

• 

  Gateway NRF24L01+ 2.4GHz Wireless Transceiver vs. NRF24L01+PA+LNA Antenna version
  14 Oct 2014, 23:41 • hooraysimpsons   20 Oct 2014, 21:44

  7
  0
  Votes
  7
  Posts
  4.7k
  Views

  20 Oct 2014, 21:44

  @Zeph Thanks that is what I thought but I wanted to make sure
• 

  Housing room node in smoke detector
  18 Oct 2014, 17:41 • Zeph   20 Oct 2014, 20:16

  9
  0
  Votes
  9
  Posts
  3.6k
  Views

  20 Oct 2014, 20:16

  Here's another project which passes a fire detection to a Home Automation System, much as I'm suggesting: http://harizanov.com/2014/07/diy-internet-of-things-fire-alarm/ The idea I was exploring is including our other sensors in the same housing if possible, and also making the piezo speaker a controllable actuator within our network. I don't have a 120V interconnected system (sound nice tho), but that's a good option for detection for those who do. Another option for interfacing a Home Automation system with multiple networked alarms - like the battery powered First Alert OneLink system - would be decoding the 433 MHz signals passed between these alarms. That of course does not take advantage of "hiding" a MySensors multi-sensor node inside the housing of a smoke alarm, tho. I kind of like the option of not needing to explain what these new boxes are in every room - if the sensor nodes look like smoke alarms, nobody will even notice them. And if that's done by making them hidden additions inside real and still-functioning real smoke alarms, even better!
• 

  Lets Talk Wire..
  15 Oct 2014, 15:42 • RJ_Make   20 Oct 2014, 00:04

  5
  0
  Votes
  5
  Posts
  1.6k
  Views

  20 Oct 2014, 00:04

  @meanpenugin Thanks. Definitely stranded, but even the options that's I've put my hands on aren't as flexible as a standard USB cable. I think the difference is in the jacket material. I've order, what I hope will work from MCM, so I shall see. I would have never guessed that finding nice flexible 4 conductor ~22 gauge wire would be such an issue.
• 

  Audio/visual alarms and deterrence
  alarm audio visual • 9 Oct 2014, 10:00 • bjornhallberg   18 Oct 2014, 17:17

  17
  0
  Votes
  17
  Posts
  6.1k
  Views

  18 Oct 2014, 17:17

  I have some FirstAlert OneLink smoke detectors; they network together at 433 MHz. Each gets a room type (selected from a fixed menu of a dozen: Kitchen, Utility Room, Master Bedroom...); the audio for speaking the names is in the ROM. If one goes off, they all go off and announce loudly - "Alert Alert Evacuate Immediately - Smoke in the Utility Room" (along with beeps). Runs on 2xAA. It's a good idea but... Something more customizable would be good. Last week it woke us at 3am to let us know that the battery in one of the remote rooms needed replacing - same loud alarm and voice as a fire being announced throughout the house and waking everybody up. Also the selection of room names doesn't always fit - we have to remember that we called the office a "utillity room" during setup because they don't have all the room names to match our house. (I did at least write the names on the outside of the units so I can sort it out by getting close to each unit in turn, without going into config mode to have it repeat its own name). It would be nice if the "outdoor voice" was reserved for real alarms, and battery warnings arrived by email, or in a softer voice and during the daytime only, or whatever. So a customizable and interfaceable [not real words but they should be] version of this system would be good. I do not know how hard it would be to hack a conventional smoke alarm. For safety I would probably want to keep the direct alarm connected (no un-alarmed fires due to software bugs). But one could perhaps add the ability to also trigger the buzzer in firmware as suggested above (eg: for intrusion alarms, or to relay a smoke alarm as the OneLink does), and to pass on a locally detected alarm to the system (for relaying or for announcing in other ways). Duplicating the OneLink functionality would also require a loud but tiny speaker in each unit, with locally stored voice announcements.
• 

  Where to order custom PCBs
  pcb custom • 17 Oct 2014, 12:44 • bjornhallberg   18 Oct 2014, 14:08

  7
  0
  Votes
  7
  Posts
  2.9k
  Views

  18 Oct 2014, 14:08

  Opps, I meant to say @Bandra 's board is a great small footprint board, If you're looking for small form factor, I highly recommend his.
• 

  Arduino Uno Clone
  15 Oct 2014, 20:51 • hek   17 Oct 2014, 17:09

  9
  0
  Votes
  9
  Posts
  5.7k
  Views

  17 Oct 2014, 17:09

  I haven't been running that one at 3.3v, but there are a number of designs with 16MHz ATMegas at 3.3v that seem to do fine. It's outside of spec, but I've read that even Atmel engineers have indicated to some designers that the specs are very conservative, and some vendors report having shipped thousands of units (of 16MHz@3.3v) without problems with that. Perhaps it would sometimes be a problem at extremes of their temperature range? By the way, there are also Arduino Pro Mini's on eBay which can be converted between 3.3V and 5V (at 16 MHz), albeit usually with a solder bridge rather than a switch. Search Arduino Pro Mini adjustable.
• 

  Oil Fired Boiler Energy Meter
  15 Oct 2014, 08:13 • funkyG   17 Oct 2014, 06:46

  10
  0
  Votes
  10
  Posts
  3.2k
  Views

  17 Oct 2014, 06:46

  For refill prediction you might wanna add a distance sensor in the tank (if possible) measuring the oil level. There is a variant that can handle rough conditions in the "shop".
• 

  Perfboard and Arduino
  6 Oct 2014, 21:24 • naveen   16 Oct 2014, 17:06

  5
  0
  Votes
  5
  Posts
  4.0k
  Views

  16 Oct 2014, 17:06

  Hey all, I"ve got a question about wire wrap, I bought some from a local electronics store but it seems that there isn't traditional insulation on the wire, it seems more like a paint. Is this typical? Or did I buy the wrong thing.... It's 26AWG
• 

  DevDuino V 2.0 Board
  31 Jul 2014, 19:27 • clippermiami   16 Oct 2014, 07:30

  20
  0
  Votes
  20
  Posts
  10.7k
  Views

  16 Oct 2014, 07:30

  Here is in effect the same sketch for 1.4. Im using @Yveaux 's vcc library this time.vcc library https://codebender.cc/sketch:54782 Im no longer using the changed boards.txt. - it doesnt seem to do anything ( other than stuffing the serial output)
• 

  Prototyping TI TPS61097 Boost Converter
  converter boost soldering • 14 Oct 2014, 09:37 • bjornhallberg   14 Oct 2014, 10:47

  3
  0
  Votes
  3
  Posts
  1.8k
  Views

  14 Oct 2014, 10:47

  @soward I use some sort of no-name 10 uH 12mm (I know, stupidly big) shielded inductor from AliExpress. Looks a lot like these, fairly bulky and heavy: http://m2.uxcell.com/photo_new/20140506/c/ux_a14050600ux0992_ux_c.jpg Haven't done more than go over it with the continuity tester to see that it didn't have some sort of rudimentary inside damage. I also tested the capacitors, they were close enough to 10 uF but I did some surprising minor variation that can't be blamed on the DMM. Random Ebay caps are probably not a good idea if you need spot on values. But they did seem to work.
• 

  PG320240 LCD
  10 Oct 2014, 10:14 • korttoma   14 Oct 2014, 05:28

  5
  0
  Votes
  5
  Posts
  4.8k
  Views

  14 Oct 2014, 05:28

  @Yveaux said: there should be some OKI tiles somewhere, or maybe some blobs of resin somewhere on the back? I dug a bit further and under some green tape I found something: So I guess these might be the LCD controllers then. Anyway, if someone feels like sinking their teeths in one of these let me know.
• 

  SOT23 or LE33
  nrf24l01+ pro mini power • 13 Oct 2014, 17:27 • CaptainZap   13 Oct 2014, 18:39

  4
  0
  Votes
  4
  Posts
  4.2k
  Views

  13 Oct 2014, 18:39

  @hek : Thanks so much... no idea why I didn't see that earlier. I think you can close this post.
• 

  Is there a schematic of the NRF24 board?
  22 Sept 2014, 21:52 • marceltrapman   13 Oct 2014, 17:12

  23
  0
  Votes
  23
  Posts
  13.4k
  Views

  13 Oct 2014, 17:12

  @ivan.todorovich Hi! See this examples how to power it from 220V without tranformer. http://www.designercircuits.com/DesignNote1a.pdf
• 

  Powering Arduino's from a 12v source?
  10 Oct 2014, 22:24 • AtomicGrog   11 Oct 2014, 08:43

  3
  0
  Votes
  3
  Posts
  1.6k
  Views

  11 Oct 2014, 08:43

  Thanks, Didn't spot those, mainly because they looked like 5v > 3.3v in the heading. I'll maybe buy some of those plus find some of the 5V ones i see in the manufacturers spec sheet.
• 

  Any success using the very small form factor clones?
  7 Oct 2014, 22:41 • AtomicGrog   8 Oct 2014, 05:43

  3
  0
  Votes
  3
  Posts
  1.3k
  Views

  8 Oct 2014, 05:43

  Minimum? Well, you need the 3 fixed SPI pins and 2 more (CSN and CE) to run the radio (at least in the normal manner). And whatever pins you need for sensors and actuators.
• 

  Motion Sensor
  motion • 6 Oct 2014, 00:07 • BulldogLowell   7 Oct 2014, 01:10

  8
  0
  Votes
  8
  Posts
  4.3k
  Views

  7 Oct 2014, 01:10

  I was just looking for alternative approaches.
• 

  Interval/sleep sensor settings
  27 Apr 2014, 12:20 • marceltrapman   4 Oct 2014, 14:45

  6
  0
  Votes
  6
  Posts
  2.2k
  Views

  4 Oct 2014, 14:45

  @mitekg Have you converted you sketch to v 1.4?
• 

  Best Arduino for a lot of digital outputs?
  28 Sept 2014, 00:41 • naveen   3 Oct 2014, 14:55

  6
  0
  Votes
  6
  Posts
  2.8k
  Views

  3 Oct 2014, 14:55

  @hek Hmm, yeah that would work. It just seems like overkill for a few extra pins (price and size wise). I didn't realize there were 8 analog pins on the APM, those should actually be enough to drive all the things as long as they work OK as digital outputs. I figure the shift register will cause problems because I won't be able to build an 'AccelStepper' object since the input for the constructor is a pin number. I assume I'd have to modify the code if I want to put it through the shift register.
• 

  Logic Analyzer - oscilloscope
  25 Sept 2014, 08:33 • epierre   2 Oct 2014, 11:54

  8
  0
  Votes
  8
  Posts
  3.1k
  Views

  2 Oct 2014, 11:54

  @ServiceXp Well, I am considering a TSO1202 in addition to that one. At some time. Looks at least on visual inspection like good value.
• 

  RFM69 wireless
  12 Sept 2014, 13:43 • Francois   2 Oct 2014, 11:39

  13
  0
  Votes
  13
  Posts
  6.7k
  Views

  2 Oct 2014, 11:39

  This may have already been answered by have you guys tried another IDE? Something like Atmel + Visual Micro
• 

  FTDI Header (on Pro Mini) and removable pins
  25 Sept 2014, 08:21 • marceltrapman   29 Sept 2014, 19:16

  8
  0
  Votes
  8
  Posts
  2.5k
  Views

  29 Sept 2014, 19:16

  @Zeph said: card edge connector Now we know the 'official' name! Thanks dude I think this one should suffice for a ISP connector: http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/7-5530843-7/A101966-ND/2310829
• 

  Header pin solderless splitter / duplicator
  24 Sept 2014, 20:26 • samppa   26 Sept 2014, 16:17

  7
  0
  Votes
  7
  Posts
  4.5k
  Views

  26 Sept 2014, 16:17

  @soward Go ahead design those, sell to all arduino dealers and mass produce them. (Notice the order; first sell then produce)
• 

  500 meter
  23 Sept 2014, 18:45 • marceltrapman   23 Sept 2014, 19:58

  3
  0
  Votes
  3
  Posts
  1.5k
  Views

  23 Sept 2014, 19:58

  Only 500m? Search for "nRF24L01 1000m" and you see quite some matches. Is it possible? Yes, using the right antenna's and line of sight it is possible but real world, no way.
• 

  Perimeter wire with sensors for robotic mower
  sensor perimeter garden wire mower • 22 Sept 2014, 19:40 • grint   23 Sept 2014, 19:35

  4
  0
  Votes
  4
  Posts
  3.2k
  Views

  23 Sept 2014, 19:35

  @grint how would a compass sensor perform in a lawnmower robot?
• 

  TIP: Remove instead of cut the track for the power LED and Regulator
  22 Sept 2014, 10:51 • marceltrapman   22 Sept 2014, 18:03

  4
  1
  Votes
  4
  Posts
  1.7k
  Views

  22 Sept 2014, 18:03

  @lininger said: but was scared to remove the regulator, without asking first. You can't do any harm with this imho. Unless you pull it off without heating the pads first. @Yveaux Nice idea as well...
• 

  Board design request
  22 Sept 2014, 17:49 • kolaf   22 Sept 2014, 17:49

  1
  0
  Votes
  1
  Posts
  896
  Views

  No one has replied

• 

  RFM73 experience
  nrf24l01+ rfm73 • 21 Aug 2014, 14:44 • Yveaux   20 Sept 2014, 05:12

  14
  0
  Votes
  14
  Posts
  8.6k
  Views

  20 Sept 2014, 05:12

  FYI: RadioHead library 1.34 has some specific initialization code for RFM73 in the nRF24 driver (e.g. ACTIVATE command). See https://github.com/Yveaux/RadioHead/commit/f895ba933950681234d714fd7c3d3c18658b8ed5
• 

  Arduino Nano Gateway for Vera - PCB link
  19 Apr 2014, 05:12 • rosskinard   20 Sept 2014, 00:52

  28
  0
  Votes
  28
  Posts
  21.4k
  Views

  20 Sept 2014, 00:52

  Ok so.... things not to do: Don't short the holes for the capacitor. When I thought about this some more I realize it didn't make any sense to do that. I clipped the short and presto the Nano booted properly, no solid TX RX. So I cleaned the holes and put the capacitor in just for kicks and I think everything is working now. A big thanks to Ross for putting the PCB together it's awesome!
• 

  Upverter
  pcb schematic upverter • 16 Sept 2014, 18:13 • Yveaux   16 Sept 2014, 18:13

  1
  0
  Votes
  1
  Posts
  1.1k
  Views

  No one has replied

• 

  Sensors to add to buy page
  10 Sept 2014, 14:05 • jesse   12 Sept 2014, 19:15

  17
  0
  Votes
  17
  Posts
  5.8k
  Views

  12 Sept 2014, 19:15

  @Yveaux haem no... this is my quest of the gas meter reading... this is the cheap, there is the cheapest, and the expensive (raspi+cam+tesseract)...
• 

  good and safe AC/DC adapter?
  10 Sept 2014, 15:55 • Damme   11 Sept 2014, 05:11

  4
  0
  Votes
  4
  Posts
  1.7k
  Views

  11 Sept 2014, 05:11

  @Damme I posted about this before, but ive had fantastic luck getting quality ( Apple/Plantronics/Jabra/LG/Samsung/Nokia/Motorolla) etc powersupplies from the IT department at work. Most of them are rated 5/6/9 or 12volt at 500-2000mA Worth an ask...or if you dont work in a workplace, ask your wife/family/friends to ask at their workplace!
• 

  ITEAD RBoard (4 relay)
  10 Sept 2014, 02:01 • timg   10 Sept 2014, 06:22

  4
  0
  Votes
  4
  Posts
  3.1k
  Views

  10 Sept 2014, 06:22

  Hi Timg - There is a copy of my heater sketch using the 4relay Rboard. Here: http://forum.mysensors.org/topic/282/heater-device/3 It contains a note about the CE/CS pins ( plugin 1.3) //Sensor gw; Sensor gw(8,9); //Rboard PCB uses different pins for CE/CS - also interupt, but this isnt used at this time. This is a fantastic board which has been working for the past few months with zero issues! I still havent properly boxed it up. I'll await the warmer months to do this.
• 

  200pc female-female jumper cables from store - never delivered?
  18 Aug 2014, 20:25 • naveen   8 Sept 2014, 17:40

  10
  0
  Votes
  10
  Posts
  3.1k
  Views

  8 Sept 2014, 17:40

  So it seems paypal also has a 45 day policy to open disputes. I'm pretty sure the seller was just trying to delay until this time.
• 

  AC Power/Current Monitor
  6 Sept 2014, 23:55 • AtomicGrog   7 Sept 2014, 07:43

  4
  0
  Votes
  4
  Posts
  3.0k
  Views

  7 Sept 2014, 07:43

  Sort of does. I'll checkout the library and dig a bit further into the thread.
• 

  sensors, voltage and pull up/down resistors
  30 Aug 2014, 08:51 • marceltrapman   1 Sept 2014, 23:35

  6
  0
  Votes
  6
  Posts
  3.4k
  Views

  1 Sept 2014, 23:35

  There are 5V and 3.3v digital sensors as well as analog, so making it selectable would add flexibility. Either with jumpers or by using 4 pin connectors with both voltages.
• 

  Motion sensor withput the interrupt
  15 Aug 2014, 08:37 • ferpando   30 Aug 2014, 04:08

  8
  0
  Votes
  8
  Posts
  2.8k
  Views

  30 Aug 2014, 04:08

  I think you are on the right track. There' s no need for the interrupt in your case. So you don't have to worry about what process is being interrupted. @ferpando said: It was just a quick proof of concept.. I guess I should set tripped to false once the message is sent John had the right logic. You don't want to set tripped false until the input (ie: motion dectector output) goes false, not when a message is sent. His suggested logic sends one message whenever the motion detector goes active, and not again until it goes inactive and active again. (Which happens after no motion for some time period adjustable via a pot on the motion detector).
• 

  Powering sensors through the digital pins?
  29 Aug 2014, 05:35 • kolaf   29 Aug 2014, 14:11

  3
  0
  Votes
  3
  Posts
  2.8k
  Views

  29 Aug 2014, 14:11

  I'm usually doing this test for each and every sensor i bought and I can confirm that many of them can work without problems. Sensors like DHT seems to need a delay(500), before call the sensor read function, in order to let him "boot-up" otherwise you will experience communication errors. Sensors connected to analog input, like soil humidity, will not give correct measurement, if the precision is not your must is possible to use pin powering, Pay attention on the max current required for the sensor, if you exceed that the Arduino will be damaged. Measure it before to connect! Radio cannot be powered by digital pin (too much current during transmission). Arduino has also a maximum total current that normally can never be exceeded, special attention to be given if you use radio with PA antenna!
• 

  Battery powering options
  28 Aug 2014, 10:34 • kolaf   28 Aug 2014, 20:05

  7
  0
  Votes
  7
  Posts
  4.5k
  Views

  28 Aug 2014, 20:05

  The title is about batteries, but the subject of using cheap phone chargers has come up. Small note: Whenever I refer to "the regulator" below, I'm talking about the onboard regulator of the arduino variant you are using, not to any regulator chips inside the phone charger. Just to be very clear. Safety: If you ARE going to use cheap phone chargers, at least buy several and crack one open to look at the isolation on the PCB. (look at the pics on some web sites that have done this to get an idea what you are looking for) Then always unplug it before working on the sensor node - use an alternate high quality supply while programming and testing, Just In Case. And don't have any exposed conductors on your finished node, that could be touched. I would avoid the most compact ones with little room inside the case. And you might want to test the temperature of the charger under load before deciding to use a given model. Power quality. At least measure the output with a voltmeter, under the loads you use. If you try to run a 5V arduino (eg: APM = Arduino Pro Micro) from a 5V charger you could have problems (you must test). If you use Vin, you will likely have problems because there isn't enough voltage differential for regulation, a condition known as dropping out of regulation or drop-out. There are regulators with low drop out (LDO) specs that require less difference between input and output voltage, but those specs vary depending on the regulator and load. The ATMega chips have a lot of slack, so a 16 Mhz chip will probably still run fine if the output of the regulator is, say, 4.5v or maybe 4.0 volts so the voltage drop may not be critical. But the regulator may not be keeping the supply as stable when in drop-out - varying the voltage as load changes or passing through variations in the supply voltage (coming from a cheap charger). So you may be tempted to just feed the charger 5v into the arduino's VCC=5V pin. That may work, but (1) some regulators don't like having power applied to their output pin only, so check that it doesn't overheat or remove it, and (2) the regulation on cheap chargers can sometimes be very bad - either off-voltage or with a lot of ripple and noise. Some are better than others. Expect the cheap ones to usually get flakey in these regards well under their nominal supply (eg: a charger which says 1A might work well only up to half that). And they may be poor even at low current. If you have a scope you can look at it (being careful about isolation and safety). If you have a 3.3v arduino, you can probably feed the charger's 5v signal into its Vin and get a reasonably well regulated VCC=3.3v. WIth the above qualifiers, some cheap chargers work fine in the right situation. Of course, you should instead get a high quality power supply for each node. One problem is knowing that it is indeed a high quality supply - just paying more isn't a perfect predictor of that. Using a name brand may help, but there are plenty of reports of problems with name brand suppies too (tho we hope they are statistically less common). And a good supply may sometimes cost more than the node (3.3v APM = $3.50, nRF24L01+ = $1, dht-11 = $1, power supply = $10?)
• 

  Water Flow Sensor
  7 Aug 2014, 14:06 • tbully   28 Aug 2014, 13:39

  14
  0
  Votes
  14
  Posts
  8.2k
  Views

  28 Aug 2014, 13:39

  @tbully Nice find... Seems like there are more and more power related issues popping up lately..
• 

  AIRduino
  18 Aug 2014, 22:07 • hek   19 Aug 2014, 05:45

  3
  0
  Votes
  3
  Posts
  1.8k
  Views

  19 Aug 2014, 05:45

  @hek said: AIRduino Oouch.. OTA serial communication. Didn't read the spec enough
• 

  IKEA PATRULL Nightlight
  diy ikea hack • 15 Aug 2014, 14:40 • bjornhallberg   16 Aug 2014, 02:10

  5
  0
  Votes
  5
  Posts
  7.3k
  Views

  16 Aug 2014, 02:10

  It would be nice to control the Patrull similarly to http://thingm.com/products/blink-1/.
• 

  Inverse gateway leds behavior
  gateway • 15 Aug 2014, 10:01 • John   15 Aug 2014, 10:17

  4
  0
  Votes
  4
  Posts
  1.5k
  Views

  15 Aug 2014, 10:17

  @hek [original_post_deleted] @Damme Yeah, i think i will go for an HW solution... Maybe with a switch to choose between modes...
• 

  Multiple DH-11 Sensors on the same Arduino Pin?
  9 Aug 2014, 23:34 • clippermiami   11 Aug 2014, 14:00

  17
  0
  Votes
  17
  Posts
  5.5k
  Views

  11 Aug 2014, 14:00

  @Zeph OK by me. But I would observe that like any conversation in "the real world" it tends to branch out, and this is no exception. And things are only controversial or divisive if we choose to make them so.
• 

  Just to be sure about connecting a W25X40CLSNIG
  8 Aug 2014, 07:26 • marceltrapman   11 Aug 2014, 08:00

  5
  0
  Votes
  5
  Posts
  2.2k
  Views

  11 Aug 2014, 08:00

  This is work in progress: http://www.dorkbotpdx.org/blog/paul/spi_transactions_in_arduino
• 

  Transformers
  transformer • 9 Aug 2014, 22:38 • RJ_Make   11 Aug 2014, 06:59

  9
  0
  Votes
  9
  Posts
  3.0k
  Views

  11 Aug 2014, 06:59

  @jendrush said: Maybe small usb wall charger for 1,4$, and regulator from 5V to 3.3V for 0,1$ would be good solution? For some projects, using cheap chargers can be a good option. However, I'd open any such cheap charger and have a look before using it. Some appear to be acceptably designed, and some appear to be dangerous designs, from the teardowns. For example: http://www.righto.com/2012/10/a-dozen-usb-chargers-in-lab-apple-is.html He rated 2 out of the batch as downright dangerous. Even with one which appears to have a reasonable design with enough separation, I would not be poking around in the sensors or PCB while they are currently powered from 230V with a cheap charger. Unplug first. And if you need power for programming or testing, use your normal USB supply (eg: a laptop or a high quality power supply) or batteries. Maybe that's just me, but this seems like a reasonably easy additional precaution. Even if the PCB has good separation, the insulation between windings of a transformer could be marginal, for example. Most readers here probably already know this, just thought it was worth noting for anybody coming to this hobby more recently.
• 

  Antenna 101
  19 Jul 2014, 09:01 • Damme   8 Aug 2014, 16:06

  27
  0
  Votes
  27
  Posts
  20.6k
  Views

  8 Aug 2014, 16:06

  @daulagari I had the chance of borrowing a hand held RF spectrum analyzer for a very short while (2h) I would love to do some more scientific measurements on all my transmitting apparatus..
• 

  Resistor Supplier
  2 Aug 2014, 15:29 • naveen   2 Aug 2014, 16:37

  2
  0
  Votes
  2
  Posts
  1.0k
  Views

  2 Aug 2014, 16:37

  @naveen Buy them where you can find them cheap.. There are a lot of kits on ebay where you find resistors with assorted resistance. Local suppliers should keep these kinds of kits also.
• 

  Motion Sensor, flaky behavior
  21 Jul 2014, 21:48 • naveen   30 Jul 2014, 22:22

  22
  0
  Votes
  22
  Posts
  7.6k
  Views

  30 Jul 2014, 22:22

  @BulldogLowell I fried my breadbord power supply by connecting broken power adaptor(it have me about 13-14V instead of up to 12V), this fried AMS1117 5V. I replaced it, and it's working proper again.
• 

  Sleep/Wake/TXRx Cycle
  18 Jul 2014, 02:44 • therik   25 Jul 2014, 06:01

  27
  1
  Votes
  27
  Posts
  10.9k
  Views

  25 Jul 2014, 06:01

  @therik What about the first part of the scope chart, starting from 0 sec? What is the sketch doing there for more than half a second? It was reading temperatures, but for how many sensors?
• 

  Standard versus LNA+PA radio modules
  10 Jul 2014, 21:29 • a-lurker   20 Jul 2014, 10:13

  8
  1
  Votes
  8
  Posts
  8.9k
  Views

  20 Jul 2014, 10:13

  @a-lurker said: So using your figure of 2.6 dB, which looks like an appropriate figure but could be higher; then this suggests, It's really a waste of time using the LNA+PA PCBs unless they are used at both ends. I largely agree, some refinements: If the sensor is mainly sending data and the gateway only acking, it is probably wise to have the PA radio at the sensor as I expect the data messages to be longer than the Acks 2.6 dB is not nothing, the range is extended by 34% (new_range = old_range * 1.34) assuming free space If the receiving side sees interference (ACI), a 20 dB louder received signal is for sure a better thing Any improvement people may witness ... is probably just because the LNA+PA PCB uses a far better antenna Yes, good antenna's can for sure help but be sure you know what you are doing. If you use a dipole antenna and point it to the other node it will not help you and likely even kill your connection. The antenna efficiency of the on-board antenna's can be pretty good, assuming things are matched correctly. If the external antenna is also matched correctly, it will have about the same efficiency. The same efficiency means that same total power is transmitted. The remaining difference then is that but the on-board antenna will have less directivity so the energy is spread out more evenly where for instance a dipole will focus most energy perpendicular to the dipole. A pretty good trick, that is how we can still receive signals for the Voyager 1 that is almost out of the solar system using a 20m dish antenna. But ... do point this antenna 1 degree wrong and you will not see the signal.
• 

  Using optocoupler as actuator in node
  22 May 2014, 13:18 • ferpando   20 Jul 2014, 08:52

  22
  0
  Votes
  22
  Posts
  12.2k
  Views

  20 Jul 2014, 08:52

  @Zeph said: Or better still, optocouplers or an analog switch as described above... Yes, that's a better option as relays are quite power hungry and bulky.
• 

  Conecting two things to one Arduino pin (GND/VCC)
  19 Jul 2014, 00:00 • naveen   19 Jul 2014, 20:07

  7
  0
  Votes
  7
  Posts
  7.3k
  Views

  19 Jul 2014, 20:07

  @naveen said: What is APM? Arduino Pro Micro. Sorry, sometimes I spell it out, but we use the term a lot here. Isn't the maximum one thing connected to either power or ground since there is only one pin for each? No, there's not one to one association of that sort. For i/o pins you have to take some care not to try to drive too much output load, or let different inputs fight with each other, but for power and ground that's not the issue. Well, you do have to keep the draw on the regulated power reasonable - often they are spec'd at about 150 ma (including the on board load for microcontroller, LED, powered outputs, etc), but that can vary. I was thinking about doing something like you do, but was hoping there would be something more elegant. Are you not worried that the bare wires will touch other pins, etc.? Yes, I only do that when I have a mounting situation where it's OK. And I might coat it with Liquid Electrical Tape in a few cases. AND - I too wouldn't mind learning a more elegant solution.
• 

  sensor Node - Ready to buy!
  18 Apr 2014, 06:33 • gregl   13 Jun 2014, 03:07

  8
  0
  Votes
  8
  Posts
  5.4k
  Views

  13 Jun 2014, 03:07

  or i might use one as a multi sensor - temp, light and movement..
• 

  Shift register node
  26 May 2014, 07:18 • ferpando   28 May 2014, 06:38

  5
  0
  Votes
  5
  Posts
  2.1k
  Views

  28 May 2014, 06:38

  @Yveaux You might be right, but then again how would I learn about shift registers if I don't use them?
• 

  Node external power
  26 May 2014, 11:30 • ferpando   28 May 2014, 06:07

  9
  0
  Votes
  9
  Posts
  3.8k
  Views

  28 May 2014, 06:07

  You may want to disconnect everything and just leave the power supply and arduino, then measure the RAW pin and VCC pin, RAW should be anything above 5V, VCC should read 5V for the 5V version and 3.3V for the 3.3V version. Any other readings on VCC suggest that your regulator on the arduino is faulty.
• 

  LM393 as Light Level Sensor
  23 May 2014, 11:57 • clippermiami   24 May 2014, 12:03

  5
  0
  Votes
  5
  Posts
  3.1k
  Views

  24 May 2014, 12:03

  Do not mix digital and analogue outputs of the light sensor Lm393 is used to switch from low to high above the light threshold. Etc. it provides digital (binary) output. If you connect it to arduino analogue ping you mostly will read binary data with some noise. Analogue output of this sensor is bypassing lm393 and provides you a range of analogue levels depending on the light level For me a cheap 5mm round photoresistor is very sufficient as a light sensor. Just create a divider with photoresistor on bottom and fixed resistor on top. Fixed resistor should be with resistance much lower than dark resistance of the photoresistor, so you will read 1023 in a dark room
• 

  Leonardo RF24
  27 Apr 2014, 21:56 • discorover0   23 May 2014, 10:11

  4
  0
  Votes
  4
  Posts
  5.1k
  Views

  23 May 2014, 10:11

  Hi. Just wanted to let you know that I've tested this with an Arduino Leonardo, with the RF24 library bundled with "My Sensors" (from GIT), MISO MOSI and SCK connected to ICSP as stated on the offcial Wiki: http://arduino.cc/en/Reference/SPI also works for the MEGA 2560, but you have to connect to the ICSP or use the 50-52 pins (if using it for the Ethernet gateway for example) Regards.
• 

  dyp-me003se mini sensor
  22 May 2014, 23:14 • lininger   23 May 2014, 00:27

  3
  0
  Votes
  3
  Posts
  2.2k
  Views

  23 May 2014, 00:27

  Thanks That might have been my issue. I did notice the 5v step-up LED seemed to brighten at times, which I never noticed before. This sensor is a Micro Pro 3.3v with step-up to 5v for the sensor. It is powered with a 5v 1a wall plug. Anyhow I recompiled the sketch removing the EPROM write after trying some pull down resistor values, no luck, put it back in its original location and so far it has been working fine. Will have to watch it for a while.
• 

  Sensors on gateway
  20 May 2014, 19:00 • ferpando   20 May 2014, 20:28

  2
  0
  Votes
  2
  Posts
  1.4k
  Views

  20 May 2014, 20:28

  It's not recommended. Let the gateway handle radio<->serial communication to minimize missed messages.
• 

  Combine sensors in same node
  18 May 2014, 19:44 • ferpando   18 May 2014, 20:14

  4
  0
  Votes
  4
  Posts
  3.1k
  Views

  18 May 2014, 20:14

  Yes, but you need to reconfigure io-pins correctly. Join the discussion here: http://forum.mysensors.org/topic/115/implementing-multiple-sensors#780
• 

  Sensor Node V2.0
  2 May 2014, 09:27 • hari   15 May 2014, 05:26

  23
  1
  Votes
  23
  Posts
  12.0k
  Views

  15 May 2014, 05:26

  Basic sensors that you are using for logging and alarm are ok. However, when starting with power/switch/dimm, then security starting to be a big issue. (Also when using the sensors to control something) I hope this boards will be sold with a big warning on that point. (I'm not negative to mysensors and using those myself, why would I else be here :). I'm just not a fan of people seeing this as a complete HA solution)
• 

  One Arduino with multiple functions
  6 Apr 2014, 21:38 • A Former User   29 Apr 2014, 18:36

  17
  0
  Votes
  17
  Posts
  10.1k
  Views

  29 Apr 2014, 18:36

  @tjay4x4 I completely understand. Until about 3-4 weeks ago I did not even know what an Arduino was. Yet, here I am creating a plugin for Indigo (I did not know about Indigo until about 8 weeks ago) and creating/testing very basic sensors. Today I started creating my first 'home-grown' sensor and guess what: You have to try it to understand it I know from experience that you can ask just about anything when you get stuck...
• 

  Gateway-less sensors
  29 Apr 2014, 03:10 • tigra   29 Apr 2014, 17:16

  4
  0
  Votes
  4
  Posts
  1.8k
  Views

  29 Apr 2014, 17:16

  @hek: Is it technical "cannot" or legal "cannot"? From technical angle it's not walk in the park but it's been done (google z-force and open-zwave).
• 

  Changing CE/CS Pins used
  27 Apr 2014, 11:44 • gregl   28 Apr 2014, 07:31

  4
  0
  Votes
  4
  Posts
  3.2k
  Views

  28 Apr 2014, 07:31

  Fantastic.. Thanks for this.
• 

  Presence sensor?
  18 Apr 2014, 01:30 • Tommy Sharp   18 Apr 2014, 01:30

  1
  0
  Votes
  1
  Posts
  1.0k
  Views

  No one has replied

• 

  Arduino Pro Vs Nano
  16 Apr 2014, 18:13 • NotYetRated   17 Apr 2014, 01:47

  5
  0
  Votes
  5
  Posts
  5.4k
  Views

  17 Apr 2014, 01:47

  @NotYetRated Biggest difference I see is the USB FTDI onboard, good if your are connecting to a vera or something needing the comms. If it is going to be purely a sensor node, I don't see why u need this. The pro mini has 5v and 3.3v variations, or look for switchable ones, pro mini enhancements. If you are frequently reprogramming it, then easier with the nano, I'm fine using a separate ftdi board for programming purposes.
• 

  Power for (re-used) wall plug
  14 Apr 2014, 09:13 • marceltrapman   14 Apr 2014, 16:34

  5
  0
  Votes
  5
  Posts
  2.1k
  Views

  14 Apr 2014, 16:34

  Hi Andriej, I won't do that because I have experienced quite some issues with that frequency. Some of my neighbours use the same frequency and I have had my (kitchen) light go on and off without doing anything (or even being home) too many times with these 2 devices. That is why I decided to re-use their housing but not the technology... But, thank you for the suggestion! Cheers, Marcel